Wood smoking...

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  • cooterbrown
    Forum Newbie
    • Mar 2013
    • 30

    Wood smoking...

    Hey,

    It's been years since I have been on this forum. And unfortunately years since I've used my BT3K. Got it out last night to make some cuts on 2x4's. It fired up fine after cleaning and vacuuming dust and debris.

    However - not so lucky with the 2x4s. They started smoking really bad. So much so the smoke alarms went off in the basement and now have smoky burnt wood smell.

    Got up, tried it again, more smoke.

    The blade looks likes it's been inactive for years - which it has. But there's not a big buildup at all on any of the teeth.

    I'm making relatively slow cuts - slower than normal considering the circumstances. The motor - though, seems fine.

    Any thoughts? Even when I used the saw regularly - I didn;t abuse it - everything is in great shape considering the inactivity.

    Any thoughts are appreciated! Thanks!
  • cabinetman
    Gone but not Forgotten RIP
    • Jun 2006
    • 15218
    • So. Florida
    • Delta

    #2

    What blade are you using? Is it carbide tipped...how many teeth? How old?

    .

    Comment

    • cooterbrown
      Forum Newbie
      • Mar 2013
      • 30

      #3
      It came with the ryobi - maybe 10-12 years?

      There was just a little ridge of 'stuff' on each tooth. I cleaned each tooth a little bit and that seemed to help.

      Carbide? I'm not sure.

      But - acknowledge it may be the blade/age.

      I need to find the tool to get the blade off to give it a good cleaning - but can't find it.

      Comment

      • BobSch
        • Aug 2004
        • 4385
        • Minneapolis, MN, USA.
        • BT3100

        #4
        Stating the obvious here, but are you sure the blade is on right? A blade on backwards is a great way to make smoke.
        Bob

        Bad decisions make good stories.

        Comment

        • RAFlorida
          Veteran Member
          • Apr 2008
          • 1179
          • Green Swamp in Central Florida. Gator property!
          • Ryobi BT3000

          #5
          Is the wood being pinched?

          Plus what's already been asked.

          Comment

          • sweensdv
            Veteran Member
            • Dec 2002
            • 2862
            • WI
            • Baileigh TS-1040P-50

            #6
            Also check;

            Blade/fence alignment
            Feed rate too slow
            Blade needs sharpening/replacement
            Are you using a splitter
            _________________________
            "Have a Great Day, unless you've made other plans"

            Comment

            • cabinetman
              Gone but not Forgotten RIP
              • Jun 2006
              • 15218
              • So. Florida
              • Delta

              #7
              The question about how many teeth is important. If you can't find the tool, you may be able to use an open end wrench, or a box end wrench, or an adjustable wrench once you get the insert removed from the table that surrounds the blade. I don't have that saw, so I'm generalizing.

              .

              Comment

              • cooterbrown
                Forum Newbie
                • Mar 2013
                • 30

                #8
                Everything seems to be in order. Yes to all the questions above, albeit, I don;t have calipers to be exact.

                The blade aligns with the splitter perfectly.

                However - I don't have a tool to check for perfect fence alignment. If someone knows of a quick post discussing ways to align the rail - I would appreciate that.

                I thought that it may have been because the pieces were glued. But I initially ripped some non-glued pieces.

                I can grab a new blade and try that. Hate to spend the $40. But, that looks like it may be the issue.

                I'm ripping about 25" lengths. But the saw should more than be able to handle that.

                Comment

                • cabinetman
                  Gone but not Forgotten RIP
                  • Jun 2006
                  • 15218
                  • So. Florida
                  • Delta

                  #9
                  How many teeth does the blade have??

                  .

                  Comment

                  • LCHIEN
                    Internet Fact Checker
                    • Dec 2002
                    • 20920
                    • Katy, TX, USA.
                    • BT3000 vintage 1999

                    #10
                    too slow a feed rate will burn the wood. Too fast a feed rate will cause the saw motor to stall out and either break the belts, burn out the motor or trip the circuit breakers in your house. Listening to your saw can tell you a lot about how its doing with some experience.

                    In between is where you want to be and preferably towards the faster end so you can get work done more quickly.

                    if you are just feeding real slow becasue that's how you do it then the sides get burnished due to the repeated rubbing on the side of the blade. This is easily fixed by feeding faster.

                    If you are feeding slow because the wood won't feed any faster without stalling the motor then you have to think about the following:
                    blade sharp?
                    Blade the right type (rip blades with about 24 tooth will cut faster and better on long, deep rip cuts)?
                    Saw properly aligned, no friction dragging on the wood?
                    motor properly supplied with electricity - good breaker, 12 ga wiring in the wall and no extension cord (or a short one of 12ga)

                    If all the above are correct then you don't have a powerful enough saw to make the cut you want. For a BT3000 that might only be if you are cutting hardwood 3+ inches deep.

                    Ripping a 2x4 the thin way should be quite doable.
                    Loring in Katy, TX USA
                    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                    Comment

                    • cooterbrown
                      Forum Newbie
                      • Mar 2013
                      • 30

                      #11
                      It was the condition of the blade. Went out and got a Diablo combo blade and it sliced through it like butter.

                      I'm upstairs now but think both were 40 teeth blades.

                      Is there any use in having the factory blade re-conditioned if at all possible?

                      I don't know if it's that big a deal - I just hate throwing things away that may have some life in them.

                      On to the drill press now. Creating door handles out of over-sized 36" long drum sticks.

                      I'm using the saw and drill press to make some nesting mounts for the drumsticks.

                      Comment

                      • cwsmith
                        Veteran Member
                        • Dec 2005
                        • 2737
                        • NY Southern Tier, USA.
                        • BT3100-1

                        #12
                        For me, the quickest way to check the fence to blade alignment is to simply place something (small piece of ply or even a fairly wide yard stick, whatever) against the right side of the blade and then slide the fence over to it, to the point where it lightly touches your "parallel"... then lock the fence down and observe if it is alignment. It's quick and it's simple and it works for me; and I use the same procedure to check and align the scale on the front rail.

                        If your stock is dry, and if you are using the original stock blade, you really shouldn't be having this problem, unless you don't have enough amps (long extension cord, less than 15 amps at the receptacle, or you blade is dull and/or dirty. In consideration as to how long it has been since you used the saw, and that you have left some build up on the blade, it could very well be the blade is far less sharp and efficient as it should be.

                        Residue, especially pitch, left on the blade for that long could be as hard as a rock at this point. I would think it will require a bit more than a casual wiping or chipping off.

                        I generally use a 50-tooth blade on my BT (and on my RAS and SMT too). I like the smoothness of the cut, and for most board-stock rips it works fine for me. A 2 x may well be a challenge though and for that I might just well opt for a blade with fewer teeth... a blade meant for "ripping"! But, as I recall, the OEM blade was a good "combination", if clean and sharp.

                        I hope this is helpful,

                        CWS
                        Think it Through Before You Do!

                        Comment

                        • jking
                          Senior Member
                          • May 2003
                          • 972
                          • Des Moines, IA.
                          • BT3100

                          #13
                          Age of the blade doesn't necessarily mean much. What will matter is how much use it has seen. A dirty blade can make a blade cut poorly. Also, if the blade is dull that will be a problem. As Cab'man pointed out, the number of teeth make a difference and knowing that will help us point you in the right direction.

                          As for checking fence alignment, here's a simple procedure. Unplug the saw. Mark one tooth on the blade with a marker. Take something of a known width (a piece of plywood, short length of stock). Lay this piece against the fence and move the fence until the stock barely touches the blade. You want the leading edge of the stock to be at the front of the blade. Lock the fence in place. You may need to tweak this as the fence can shift while locking. Rotate the blade back and forth to make sure the marked tooth barely drags on the edge of the stock. Now flip the stock over so the end facing you now points to the back of the saw, keeping the same edge against the fence. Now place this piece of stock at the back of the saw tight against the fence. Rotate the blade so the marked toot is now at the back of the saw. Slide the stock so the end facing you is at the marked tooth. Rotate the blade back and forth slightly. If the marked tooth drags more than before or hangs up your fence is closer to blade at the back of the saw. This is a problem and need to adjust the fence. It's been recommended to me to have the slightly farther away at the back of the saw. This is a quick method to check alignment. I don't remember the procedure for adjusting.
                          Last edited by jking; 03-09-2013, 07:52 PM.

                          Comment

                          • LCHIEN
                            Internet Fact Checker
                            • Dec 2002
                            • 20920
                            • Katy, TX, USA.
                            • BT3000 vintage 1999

                            #14
                            Originally posted by cooterbrown
                            It was the condition of the blade. Went out and got a Diablo combo blade and it sliced through it like butter.

                            ...
                            Is there any use in having the factory blade re-conditioned if at all possible?

                            I don't know if it's that big a deal - I just hate throwing things away that may have some life in them.

                            ...

                            You can have a saw blade sharpened - it only makes sense to sharpen more costly carbide blades like your original Ryobi blade. Generally the blades can be sharpened a number of times, it depends on how thick the original carbide was... Ryobi was middling if I recall, not as thick as some premium blades but much better than econo-blades.

                            They charge by the tooth - a 36 tooth blade is generally around 25 to 33 cents per tooth so you're looking at around 9 to 12 bucks.
                            They'll also fix broken or chipped carbide teeth, I think for around $3 a tooth.

                            Look under sharpening services in the yellow pages or go to the customer service desk at a local hardware or tool store, there are generally services that pick up and deliver weekly to such stores.

                            Price list from a sharpener in the Houston area:


                            Another option is a mail-order internet service like Forrest. Of course that adds shipping to your costs.
                            Serious woodworkers count on American-made Forrest saw blades for smooth, quiet cuts, every time... without splintering, scratching or tearouts.

                            Slivers Mill is your source for premium saw blades and industrial cutting tools.
                            Last edited by LCHIEN; 03-10-2013, 01:32 PM.
                            Loring in Katy, TX USA
                            If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                            BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                            Comment

                            • cabinetman
                              Gone but not Forgotten RIP
                              • Jun 2006
                              • 15218
                              • So. Florida
                              • Delta

                              #15
                              I would pick up a good 32T carbide tipped blade.

                              .

                              Comment

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