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Hey folks. I am going to look at a BT3000 tomorrow and was wondering if anyone had any advice on what to inspect on the saw. I've read there's a shim issue. If the shim has been overrun is it evident by looking at it? Many thanks for guidance.
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seamrten, there's a lot of info in my FAQ, I usually send it out within 12 hours if requested, see my sig line below and be sure to leave me your e-mail address.
There's one section on Buying a used BT3000, another on shims, etc.
Probably about 100 sections in all.
The BT3000s do have a potential shim issue, about a third of Bt3 OWNERS IN MY POLL HERE HAVE EXPERIENCED THE ISSUE. It can be avoided by keeping the saw clean and lubricating the shim supporting ways on the elevation mechanism.
Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions -
I bought my unit on the spot (price was right) - and later discovered shim problem. It wasn't a bad fix.
check 1: shim
Wind the blade height up, then down ---- move easy?
(if yes --- great ---- if no --- possible shim problem -- but not a killer)
If it moves slowly (with lots of stick) - haggle and complain a lot.
It's a $25 fix, at worst.
Check 2: bearings -
(with power unplugged) --- grab blade --- does it move up/down?
If it does - I'm done (possible bearing problem)
If not - great
Check 3: Rip fence test
Lock the fence down --- then push against the back end --- does it hold steady?
If not - possible rip fence problem (usually easy to fix - sometimes at no cost)
Check 4: Miter
Set up the miter --- then using a square --- determine whether or not the sliding miter in the stopped position (up against the little flip-up stop) is square against the blade.
If not - hmm and haw - moan and groan - and tell the seller it's not square
(then buy it, take it home, and tune it up).
Check 5: Does the wife store her tomato starters on it?
Haggle --- tell the seller you want to buy a saw, not a green house table....Comment
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Also, turn SMT upside down to check the little black plastic square sliders- I saw one once where the owner had replaced them with metal washers! Not a deal breaker, but an indicator of prior care.Comment
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Check 2 continued: also see if there is any side-to-side play in the blade.
Items to see if they're included (all were part of the saw when new):
1: arbor nut. It's a reverse thread nut so a generic one won't replace it. Reverse thread nuts are available and are not expensive... but do cost more than generic nuts.
2: two blade stabilizers. They look like large washers with a slight cup to them.
3: Two blade wrenches . One has a large opening for the arbor nut, the other has a small opening (about half an inch) for the two nuts that hold the blade guard/riving knife assembly. Both should have inch long "ears" on the ends opposite the nut openings; these ears fit on flat spots in the arbor shaft to lock the arbor while replacing blades. Often they get bent/twisted off - they're supposed to point parallel to the long edges of the wrench. The ears on the wrench with the small nut opening are the critical ones since that's the wrench you'll use to hold the arbor while using the "big nut" wrench to loosen/tighten the arbor nut.
4: allen wrenches (2: tiny and mid-sized) Not critical but they were included with the saw when new.
5: throat plates. The saw came with two if I remember correctly: one that is a long skinny "U" shape (standard blades) and one that is a long skinny "C" shape (dado stacks) Easy to make your own if they're missing (in fact, making your own "zero clearance throat plates" to replace the factory plates improves cut quality a lot) So don't fret if they're missing... but do use missing plates as another reason to price haggle! Also look for the 3 small black screws that attach the throat plate to the saw top. Do they loosen & tighten properly or are the threads in the aluminum top of the saw stripped?
6: two "spacer" collars on the arbor shaft. (with a regular blade mounted, the arbor shaft should have - left to right: arbor nut, stabilizer, blade, stabilizer, two different sized spacer collars against the aluminum support structure for the arbor.
7: blade & riving knife assembly.
8: Owner's manual.
9: black plastic end caps for the rails that support the fence. Just little caps that cover the sharp metal ends of the rails - a minor safety item and certainly not essential to the saw operation. But another haggling point!
With the throat plate removed, and the blade elevation pretty low, shine a flashlight into the throat opening and look at the belts - there should be two on the mechanism to the right of the aluminum piece that supports the blade arbor. They're a brown-orange color. If you see only one... the saw will function but that missing belt may make the remaining belt bust the first time you saw anything tough. Replacement belts are still available.
You can't see this without removing the right side panel of the saw (the one with the electrical outlet on it) or flipping the saw upsdie-down... but ideally you'd be allowed to look at the rods, gears, and related parts to the blade tilt & elevation mechanism. Where the vertical "screw" rod passes through the aluminum piece that supports the motor and blade arbor is a common problem point; poor lubrication causes the elevation (blade raise/lower) function to be too tight... resulting in the aluminum threads get stripped by the vertical screw rod. Heli-coils can fix this. If you see signs of aluminum "shavings" in this area, the saw has needed attention and lubrication and may well be on its way to requiring a Heli-coil repair.
If you look at the underside of the fence rails, where they attach to the main saw body, you'll see black lever handles (about 3 or 4 inches long): 2 on the front and 2 on the back. They rotate to clamp/lock the rail to the saw body. See if you can rotate them to loosen a little bit, then re-tighten. They should get hard to move but they won't really "snap" or "lock" into position... kinda like tightening a nut on a bolt. If they won't get tight, either they're way out of adjustment or the set screw that clamps them to the piece they turn is missing/stripped. If that stuff is messed up, you won't be able to fully lock the fence rail in position and that can be dangerous - if the rail slips while making a cut you'll stress the blade, could get kick-back, etc. The rails should NOT be able to be moved left/right when the handles properly tighten.
mpcComment
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bought it
Thanks to everyone for the in depth guidance. I did end up buying the saw. Had a couple of issues but I got it for $110 so hopefully, it will end up a smart buy. Depending, of course, on a broken part in particular which I'm sure is common.....the front block. I had browsed around some parts online and seen replacements but, turns out they were for the 3100. I don't suppose that front block will work on the 3000 will it? the fence looks the same but I see that the rails are different on the 3100 so I'm not sure. Anyone know of a place to get a 3000 front block if not? I been through every parts site I can find and no luck so far.
Other than the block, there are a couple of broken miter sliders and lil rust here and there. Motor sounds good and blade moves up and down smoothly.Comment
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Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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Hey seamrten...
I got a new saw about a month ago and have been waffling about whether to sell or part my BT3000. I need to move on clearing the space--i just need to make a decision on whether i sell a whole saw intact or piece it out to those with need. I'll make a decision by the weekend, but if i did part it out the fence would go as a unit. Shipping might be ridiculous on the parts though. Grrrr....time to decide!!
On a positive note--i'll have boxes to work with when the Incra TS-LS gets here in a week or so!! One of the reasons i need to get stuff sold--gotta make space in the shop and fill the space in my wallet. BT3000 doesn't fold into my back pocket....
earlComment
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going price for used rip fence assembly... about $25 or so?Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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Probably Loring, i haven't looked at parts prices in a while. And likely another $20-$25 to ship. An hour between packaging and going to the shipping place and suddenly Craigslist looks pretty attractive for the whole saw.
Making parting it out attractive is that i could probably net the same money and end up with the stand--a nice base for something else (but i'd not gain any "footprint" which i need!!)
earlComment
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Great news, thank youComment
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Heh, well, definitely not the opinion of the wife when I brought home a "broken" saw. :/Comment
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