Helicoil and blade raising thread

[woodturner]

When this happened to my bt3100, the easier and cheaper solution was to replace the part.

It's only available as the motor assembly at $200. However, the dealer that sold me the saw did get Ryobi to send just the part, but it was the right part number but a similar but different part. It appears the part for this vintage is no longer available, and no guarantees the one on the motor assembly is the right part, either.

[woodturner]

Anyone have any experience with E-z lok with BT3k? BTW, unless I'm missing something, a Heli-coil kit isn't outrageously more expensive: toolsource.com has a kit for 39.70.

I may try the E-z lock, since the part is less than $2 and installation does not require special tools. The heli-coil kit is available in the range of $30.

[Skaning]

I may try the E-z lock, since the part is less than $2 and installation does not require special tools. The heli-coil kit is available in the range of $30.

I went through this several years ago. I would go with the helicoil first or something similar. helicoil does trade on its name but the patents have long since expired and there are copycats that work. Reason is that if it fails, or you screw it up (it's possible trust me), there is still one more shot with at keensert (or equivalent). Admittedly all this gets expensive and increasingly frustrating

I strongly suggest pulling the whole mess out of the saw and setting it up on a drill press to do the new tap drill. Chances of success the first time are greatly improved.

[All Thumbs]

I went through this several years ago. I would go with the helicoil first or something similar. helicoil does trade on its name but the patents have long since expired and there are copycats that work. Reason is that if it fails, or you screw it up (it's possible trust me), there is still one more shot with at keensert (or equivalent). Admittedly all this gets expensive and increasingly frustrating

I strongly suggest pulling the whole mess out of the saw and setting it up on a drill press to do the new tap drill. Chances of success the first time are greatly improved.

Correct procedure is to find the largest bit you have that fits in current botched threads smoothly but not too much play. Chuck the bit in the press and with motor off feet the bit into the hole you need to re-drill. Once the bit is holding the workpiece in position, clamp the workpiece so it can't move.

Now, retract the setup bit and install the working bit in the chuck. When you drill the hole, it will be perfect.

Or just give it to a machinist or engineering tech and let them do it.

[Tom Slick]

I've used heli-coils, Time-serts, and E-Z locks quite a bit. The problem with an E-Z lock is for a 9/16-12 insert you have to drill and tap a 3/4-10 hole. Is there enough material in the boss for a 3/4" hole? The other problem is a 3/4-10 tap is going to cost $40+ and another 10 for the insert pack vs $30 for an Heli-coil full kit.

[woodturner]

Thanks, everyone, for your comments and suggestions. I think I will go with the heli-coil, for the reasons mentioned. I had envisioned using a dial indicator to square and center the drill, but the drill method solution will be so much easier.

Thanks again for all your help!!