Anti-Kickback Pawls & Riving Knife Problem

[Skeezix]

I shimmed my riving knife to place it directly over the blade. Unfortunately, in that position the right kickback pawl usually wedges itself into the kerf plate causing my rip material to jam.

I fiddled around with this and finally decided that I could have either a properly aligned riving knife or a right pawl that doesn't jamb, but not both.

Is there a way to get both with the stock mechanism or do I just have to live with it?

[Russianwolf]

You shouldn't need to shim to get things aligned. I removed everything from the knife on mine, so I don't have the prawls to worry about. The knife is the best antikickback device that you can use.

[Joe DeFazio]

I shimmed my riving knife to place it directly over the blade. Unfortunately, in that position the right kickback pawl usually wedges itself into the kerf plate causing my rip material to jam.

Maybe I don't understand the issue properly, but it sounds to me like making or buying a zero clearance throat plate might solve your issue. Doing so will also give you cleaner cuts and a bit more safety (small offcuts can't fall into that gaping maw).

Also, if you typically use your fence to the right of the blade (as I would assume), then the the riving knife should be exactly aligned with the right edge of the blade, not centered on the blade. That way, it prevents the newly cut wood from ever touching the back of the blade, which is typically when and how kickback happens.

Joe

[dbhost]

I am assuming by "kerf plate" you mean the throat plate...

FWIW, I have a Shark Guard with pawls, and kind of wish I hadn't gotten the pawls. I just don't use them. I tend to stand off to the side of a cut, I don't trust pawls, and figure this is a better solution.

You shouldn't have to shim your riving knife to get it to align. If you do, perhaps it's the blade that is off center... Are the spacers lined up right?

Like others have mentioned, alignments or not, a zero clearance throat plate will go a LONG ways to keeping your cuts clean and safe...

[pelligrini]

You shouldn't have to shim your riving knife to get it to align. If you do, perhaps it's the blade that is off center... Are the spacers lined up right?

He's probably talking about the OEM provided shims. My saw has 8 or so. I had to move them around some to get my knife aligned when I first set it up, and then when I switched to my Shark Guard.

Skeezix, can you bend the pawl out a bit so it won't get into the throat plate opening?

+1 on the Zero clearance plates. I first bought a couple Ryobi plates off of ebay. I found them to be too flexible. I later made several out of some scrap maple flooring material. Lee over at the Leeway Workshop has some Sanatec plates for a pretty decent price. http://www.leestyron.com/zctp.php Check out his Shark Guard too. I think it was the best upgrade I did for my saw.

[Black wallnut]

Not only is it normal to have to shim to center the riving knife many folks have had to bend the stock one as well. How narrow of rips are you trying to do? Once your stock passes beneath the anti kickback pawls how can you have a problem? Perhaps you are not holding the pawls up and out of the way while lowering the blade? This will cause a number of problems including what you are describing.

[Stytooner]

If you are using a saw with a riving knife, then pawls are a bit redundant and actually more of a danger than the help they might provide. OSHA still mandates them though. My new pawl system actually enables you to lock them up out of the way. Many new style guards do this now.
OSHA doesn't say that you have to use pawls on every cut, just that they must be available.

Shimming the knife isn't uncommon.

[Skeezix]

It is definitely the pawl nearest the power switch that gets stuck and prevents the work from passing the blade.

Based on the replies I've received, I'll see what I can do to remove them. Seems like I already tried bending the offending pawl but IIRC it wouldn't bend without application of more pressure than I was willing to give it.

It's be nice to have a Shark guard, but things are getting a bit tight here (spelled "expensive") as I am sure they are everywhere, so the Shark guard is off the table (no pun intended) but the idea of a zc throat plate is a good one and one I can afford.

[Bill in Buena Park]

I don't think you need to remove the pawls - but if your springs are still intact, you might want to try removing those first and see if it helps. The pawls really don't need springs, as gravity keeps those sharp little points right on the workpiece. Also, as Mark said, make sure you lift the pawls when you lower the blade, or they'll get stuck.

Also - by aligning "over the blade", I assume you're also ensuring alignment behind the blade, as it is the outfeed path that matters. I've had my RK aligned behind the blade, only to have the portion over the blade flex a little - it is not a very thick gauge of steel after all.