Thinking about ditching my mobile base

[Cochese]

Crazy idea, I know.

I like my 21829, I really do. And each and every time I use it I wheel it outside. But I'm considering taking it off of the offroad stand and putting it on something a bit sturdier and bigger and integrating storage and a router table and an outfeed table. In this scenario I would get rid of my router cabinet, which would give me room to store it.

I'm undergoing a pretty extensive remodeling of my space right now, and don't yet know if it would even work. It's just brainstorming at this point. The saw isn't that stable outside on my hill, and I could of course rectify that by making a level surface out there. But there are times I wish I had a longer table with longer rails, and of course I still don't have an outfeed table. While the 21829's stand gives it great gross maneuverability, fine adjusting is nearly impossible. For example, getting it to move forward a few inches when the stand is deployed - you need to fold it back up, move it, then set it back down. And doing that requires a few feet to the side where you can get out once it's done - putting the right side of the saw up to a wall is impossible.

The other option might be to make my router cabinet slide up between the rails on the right hand side and possibly adding some rails to it, and a fold-down outfeed table to the router cabinet itself. This might be one of those best of both worlds scenarios. Thoughts?

[pelligrini]

If I remember correctly, you're in a shed like me. Adding rail extensions and using it inside don't exactly work well together, especially if you have anything over 4' to rip.

I can move my saw forward when needed, I just walk it raising and moving one end and then the other. It's not that easy to move if you don't have access to the ends though.

I added a set of half rails, which has proven to be adequate most all the time. It's a very rare instance where I need more. I did add a support leg under the extensions. It also adds a little more stability to the saw. I usually don't put the feet down under the wheels, extending them down to a solid surface really helps. I don't do it mainly for convenience.

My knockdown outfeed table gives me a very large surface area as well as infeed support on my router table insert that's in between the rail extensions.

[Cochese]

If I remember correctly, you're in a shed like me. Adding rail extensions and using it inside don't exactly work well together, especially if you have anything over 4' to rip.

I can move my saw forward when needed, I just walk it raising and moving one end and then the other. It's not that easy to move if you don't have access to the ends though.

I added a set of half rails, which has proven to be adequate most all the time. It's a very rare instance where I need more. I did add a support leg under the extensions. It also adds a little more stability to the saw. I usually don't put the feet down under the wheels, extending them down to a solid surface really helps. I don't do it mainly for convenience.

My knockdown outfeed table gives me a very large surface area as well as infeed support on my router table insert that's in between the rail extensions.

Ok, what are half rails? I've seen that term used before, but don't understand what they mean. Half-length? How do you add them?

With the outfeed table, how does it work when the saw is folded up (assuming you have the Sears model and not the BT)?

[pelligrini]

Yep, it's a Sears Craftsman 21829.

Half rails are generally refer to just cut down full rails, like you said 'half-length'. There are a lot of different ways to join them. Every once in a while I'd attach another wide table kit to the saw. Usually when I was crosscutting long heavy pieces. I prefer an insert join rather than the OEM plate joiners. I fashioned a support out of the adjustable leg of a roller stand. This older post has a few photos of the setup: http://www.bt3central.com/showpost.p...92&postcount=7

My outfeed table is a hollow core door with adjustable legs. http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=41179 It attaches to the saw with brackets that stay fastened to the underside of the rear rail. The table quickly comes off for storage. I can roll my saw out of the shed, roll out the DC cart, attach the outfeed, hook up the DC and be ready to cut in less than 10 minutes.

[Cochese]

I've seen the first link before, but I guess I still don't understand how the additional rails attach to the original ones seamlessly. I've never seriously looked at mine though. Does the cap come off and it slide in?

Your second link is messed up however. I think I've seen that too, but a fifth or sixth look doesn't hurt.

[pelligrini]

Ryobi's method for joining the rails are 2 steel plates, 4 bolts & t-nuts. They bridge the joint on the inside face and bottom of the rails. Yea, the caps come off.

I fixed the second link above.

I used a Ryobi plate on the bottom and the hardwood insert the previous owner of my half rails milled. You can see the hardwood insert and the bottom plate in this thread: http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=45948 Not having the plate on the inside of my rails makes for easier placement of my accessory tables & rear clamp. I find the insert to be more rigid as well.

Take note of the differences between the 21829 rails and the BT rails. The different thickness of the extrusions really comes into play if using an insert.

[Cochese]

That really helps, gives me a better idea.

I need to get busy making some stuff.

[pelligrini]

I've thought about replacing my 21829 stand for someting with more mass and stability, but I think I would seriously regret not having the extreme portability that I have now. Just wheeling my planer cart or jointer over the threshold to my shop isn't easy. Maybe someday when I have more then 120 sq ft to play in I'll make a heavy duty base.

[capncarl]

I purchased the 21829 FOR the portable stand. I can fold this neat saw up and get it out of the middle of the floor. My other full size table saw was a floor space hog and no matter how hard I tried not to use it for a pile it, always had something to move before I could use it. Now I am not tempted to use the table saw as one end of a saw horse or a place to pile something. I will admit that I do sometimes use the folded up 21829 for a coat and apron hanger.
I believe that if I had to roll the saw onto a sloped pad to use it I would build a level plywood parking space with stops for it and keep the saw portable.
capncarl

[Cochese]

I'm still liking the idea of a docking router table that has the rails attached to it. Set up the saw, remove the caps, roll the router table into position and lock the wheels.

[pelligrini]

That does sound appealing, doing it on an uneven surface will be challenging. (probably more frustrating)

Before I got my half rails I was using a wide table kit with two leg kits for a while as a light duty assembly table. If I needed some extra table capacity I'd hook it up to my 21829. I spent a lot of time getting the saw and the table level depending where the saw was placed that day. It really got to be a pain. If I was working on a level floor it might have been a different story.