3100 doesn't shut off

[broschultz]

switch replacement

Thanks to Wayne for going beyond the call of duty in providing a replacement switch for my Sears Clone.

[Chris_B]

Wayne -

1) Thank you for pro-actively reaching out to this group!

2) I've sent you an email requesting a replacement.

[Wayne Hill]

Lost Mail

It looks like i had a glitch in my mail box going back a couple of weeks. If you have not gotten a response from me, please resend any email sent in the last two weeks (or if you havent gotten a reply).

Wayne Hill
800 944-9577

[Wayne Hill]

The Ryobi BT3100-1 switch, removable yellow key, was reported to the CPSC in mid-late 2005 and we have been replacing switch at no charge since that time. The replacment switch has improved plating on the contacts and improved spring release for the contacts. The replacement switch looks very similar but should give no problem.
Wayne Hill
Techtronic INdustries North America, Inc.
Anderson, South Carolina
800-944-9577
wayne.hill@ttigroupna.com

[Wayne Hill]

The BT3100-1 utilized a switch with a removable yellow key. This model experienced problems with saws in the 2005-2006 date code range. The switch contacts were inadequately plated and the release spring had insufficient "power" to break the connection when the contacts arc welded due to increased heat from the inadequate plating. The switch can be replaced at no charge by calling 800-944-9577 or emailing wayne.hill@ttigroupna.com and leaving me a message with your Model number, serial number, Fed Ex address and a phone number.
The BT3100 was different in that it had a rocker switch behind a black swinging door that could be padlocked. No problems have ever been reported for a BT3100 switch.
Craftsman model 21829 uses a similar switch which could experience the same problem. Ryobi models BTS15 and BTS20 also used a smaller ver of this switch and are also prone to contact arc welding. These models are also under extended warranty for the switch.

Wayne Hill
Director Product Safety
Techtronic INdustries North America, Inc.
Anderson, South Carolina
800-944-9577
wayne.hill@ttigroupna.com

[fergusburger]

Followup re switch replacement and CPSC

Just a quick followup to say that I received the Ryobi replacement switch within perhaps two weeks of contacting Ryobi, it installed easily, and so far works well.

Immediately after the original switch failure I filed a report with the Consumer Products Safety Commission as recommended by others in this forum. About two months later I received a call from a local CPSC staff person in St. Paul who conducted an extensive interview with me over the phone and requested that I send pictures of the saw and switch, which I did. The CPSC took the matter very seriously, which I appreciated.

[fergusburger]

Ryobi still sending out replacement switches

My BT3100-1 switch failed this weekend with the classic symptoms. I turned the switch off after a rip but the power to the motor wasn't cut. I've been using the saw since Dec 2005 lightly, but regularly.

After searching earlier threads I came across the recommendation to send a report to the Consumer Products Safety Commission and also found the email address for Mr. Wayne Hill at Ryobi. After submitting my report to CPSC I emailed Mr. Hill, not knowing whether he was still there or whether Ryobi was still sending out replacement switches.

I am pleased to report that Mr Hill replied within hours, confirmed that Ryobi was indeed sending out free replacements and notied that since my saw was out of service the replacement would be sent expeditiously. As other posters have noted he is pleasant and very efficient. He makes Ryobi look good.

I hope that none of you have this problem because it is unnerving at best and certainly a hazzard. But if you do have this problem at least as of July 2011 you can still request an improved replacement switch from Ryobi. Mr Hill wrote that he has had no reports of failure of the replacement switches, so I trust that this new one will work for a while.

Search the forums for Wayne Hill and the post with his phone number and email will pop up.

[master53yoda]

Does anyone know if there's a problem with leaving the switch "welded" in the ON position for regular use, if you've installed an additional switch (similar to what LYU370 did), but put in line between the saw switch and the saw's outlet/cord assembly?

the welded switch in most cases is a fairly high resistance connection and causes a voltage drop to the motor under load. which in the case of a universal motor (such as the bt saws use) is terminal on the motor.

replace the switch or cut it out by pluging the saw directly into the new switch cord. I also would use a 20 amp rated switch rather then a normal light switch as the lighter duty switch does not have sufficient contact area and has a higher resistance under load.

[LCHIEN]

i really just don't like two switches in series. There's any number of scenarios, some of them have the saw come on unexpectedly - it happened to me and I launched a 6-ft. 1 x 6 into the wall as a result of a freak set of circumstances that I never expected. I still have the dent in the wall to remind me.

[Bill in Buena Park]

Loring, mpc - good points, thanks. Not sure if the 21829 switch is the same as the Ryobi, but after it got stuck for the 3rd time, I added the backup switch. I leave the OEM switch in the "on" position, so breaking the weld shouldn't cause any issues, but the point on form is well taken. Instead of bypassing the OEM switch with hardwire, I think I'll replace it and leave the other switch in series - that way I can use the OEM switch as a "safety", and use the aftermarket for regular power control.

[mpc]

You don't know how much metal is actually "welded" in your existing switch. It may be enough to run the saw when you're not feeding a workpiece - i.e. when the motor is running with no load against it. That's a fairly low current situation. Now feed a tough piece of wood into the saw and watch the amperage jump up as the motor strains. That might re-melt the switch - blowing the "weld" like a fuse. Or it might just create excess heat in the switch box which could have other consequences.

It's safer to bypass the switch entirely. Solder and use heat-shrink tubing to cover the splice. And it's safer for other folks as LCHIEN noted.

mpc

[LCHIEN]

Does anyone know if there's a problem with leaving the switch "welded" in the ON position for regular use, if you've installed an additional switch (similar to what LYU370 did), but put in line between the saw switch and the saw's outlet/cord assembly?

probably won't hurt anything. But I'd consider it bad form to have a non functional live switch - could cause confusion if anyone else was ever to use the saw for whatever reason.

[Bill in Buena Park]

Does anyone know if there's a problem with leaving the switch "welded" in the ON position for regular use, if you've installed an additional switch (similar to what LYU370 did), but put in line between the saw switch and the saw's outlet/cord assembly?

[LCHIEN]

This happened to me. Take the switch off, take it apart and put it back together. It fixed the problem for me. i had to unplug the saw the when it happened to me. I haven't had a problem since

It'll probably work for a while then reoccur.
You can make it last longer by paralleling the second unused set of contacts cutting the current in half through each contact.

But the real solution is the new switch from Ryobi that has better plating ont he switch contacts to minimize the metal transferred when the swithc is opened and the inductive kick makes some additoinal current flow when breaking the contacts.
.

[MK]

Call Ryobi and they will send you a better designed replacement. Same thing happened to mine about a year or so ago. I have the newer model (bought it just before HD stopped carrying it) with the paddle switch and it welded shut eventually.