It’s fixed! Thanks to two forum members, J.D. “eccentrictinkerer” and to Ray Girling, the rip fence on my BT3000 no longer lifts when I lock it down. It’s had the problem for years. With their permission, I've combined their words, photos, and diagrams into one post so that the thread can be found in future searches by forum members who need to fix a fence that lifts. There may be other reasons that a fence lifts when locked down, and there may be other fixes. This is the one that worked for me. If the problem returns, I'll update the post.
THE PROBLEM:
My rip fence lifted when I locked it in position. The fence would start to lock when the Locking Handle was at about 2:00 o’clock when viewed from the left side of the saw. It fully locked when the Locking Handle was at 4:00 o’clock. As the Locking Handle approached the 3:00 o’clock position, “Clamper-A (#23)” pushed downward against the plastic “Plate (#27)” which caused the fence and the Front Block (#28) to lift about 1/16”. Usually, one side of the Front Block would then be pushed down to touch the rail and the other side would rotate up. As a result, the face of the rip fence would no longer be perpendicular to the table.
NOTE: Some forum members tell me that their handle rotates below horizontal (3:00 o'clock) but their fences don't lift.
Diagram from Ray Girling www.raygirling.co.uk
THE CAUSE:
“eccentrictinkerer” diagnosed the problem. The tip of “Clamper-A” was bent. Probably from moving the Locking Handle down way too far at some time. Also the top 2/3 of the plastic Plate was indented by “Clamper-A”
THE WRONG FIX:
I tried compensating for the bent “Clamper-A” by adjusting the Screw (#5) inward in “Clamper-B” (#6) on the outfeed end of the fence. I also replaced the plastic Plate with a new one. It helped a little, but made the fence extremely hard to remove.
Some forum members have stated that the lifting problem can be caused by wax on the front rail. I can't see how this will cause the problem. FYI, there is no wax on my front rail.
THE REAL FIX:
1) Remove plastic Plate (#27).
2) Unscrew the Locking Handle. Just grab and unscrew. Don’t try to use a wrench on the hex-head at its base. (It’s plastic and will round over) The handle prevents the Pin (#24) from being removed.
3) Drift out the Pin (#24) that holds “Clamper-A” and the Eccentric Roller (#20) in the Front Block.
4) Remove “Clamper-A” from the Front Block and remove the Eccentric Roller from “Clamper-A”. Note which side of the Eccentric Roller holds the Rubber Plug (#21) so that you can reassemble everything correctly.
5) Bend the tip of “Clamper-A” straight if it is bent. Here is “eccentrictinkerer's” description of how he straightens the tip:
"I researched the site and found a drawing and explanation that helped me fix the problem. (It may have been in Loring's FAQ.)
It's easy to straighten the 'clamper'. Clamp the tip in a vise and tap it a few times with a hammer. I've straightened 5 of these and none have bent back. I go easy on the fence handle. You don't need much force to lock a fence if everything is set up correctly. BTW, if the end is bent, the adjustment screw can never correct the problem."
This is a bent “Clamper-A”
This is the same “Clamper-A” when straightened.
Photos by J.D. “eccentrictinkerer”
6) While it’s apart, you may try to repair the “Rubber Plug” (#21) that holds the Locking Handle up when not in use. I didn’t repair it, so I don’t know if it is possible.
7) Reassemble the parts into the Front Block. Put a drop of blue LocTite on the threads of the Locking Handle. Replace the plastic Plate with a new one if available.
8) Adjust the Screw (#5) in Clamper-B” (#6) to engage the rear rail correctly. When you lower the Locking Handle, the plastic Plate on the Front Block should press against the front rail, lock the Front Block to the front rail, and bring the fence parallel to the blade. Then “Clamper-B” will lock the rear of the fence to the rear rail as you finish moving the Locking Handle.
Make sure that “Clamper-B” mates with the rear rail correctly. Here is Ray Girling’s diagram and description …
Diagram from Ray Girling www.raygirling.com]
“Diagram "A" shows the correct method of fitting the fence to the rear rail, and the "angle of attack" means that the clamper usually needs its adjusting screw to be slacked right off first.
Hold the fence at an angle of around 35 - 40 degrees to the table (operating handle uppermost) and make sure that the clamper slides in and under the inner lip of the rear rail, then lower the front of the fence down onto the front rail, making sure that the clamper remains as at "A." When the clamper works correctly, it operates as in diagram "B."
Diagram “C” shows an incorrectly fitting clamper.
Put a drop of blue LocTite on the threads of the Screw when it is adjusted correctly.
You should not have to realign the fence after making the repairs.
My Locking Handle now locks the fence in position shortly before it reaches the horizontal position (3:00 o'clock) and the fence doesn’t lift. The process took about 30 minutes. Thanks to forum members for showing me how to fix the problem. I’m happy.
- Lonnie
THE PROBLEM:
My rip fence lifted when I locked it in position. The fence would start to lock when the Locking Handle was at about 2:00 o’clock when viewed from the left side of the saw. It fully locked when the Locking Handle was at 4:00 o’clock. As the Locking Handle approached the 3:00 o’clock position, “Clamper-A (#23)” pushed downward against the plastic “Plate (#27)” which caused the fence and the Front Block (#28) to lift about 1/16”. Usually, one side of the Front Block would then be pushed down to touch the rail and the other side would rotate up. As a result, the face of the rip fence would no longer be perpendicular to the table.
NOTE: Some forum members tell me that their handle rotates below horizontal (3:00 o'clock) but their fences don't lift.
Diagram from Ray Girling www.raygirling.co.uk
THE CAUSE:
“eccentrictinkerer” diagnosed the problem. The tip of “Clamper-A” was bent. Probably from moving the Locking Handle down way too far at some time. Also the top 2/3 of the plastic Plate was indented by “Clamper-A”
THE WRONG FIX:
I tried compensating for the bent “Clamper-A” by adjusting the Screw (#5) inward in “Clamper-B” (#6) on the outfeed end of the fence. I also replaced the plastic Plate with a new one. It helped a little, but made the fence extremely hard to remove.
Some forum members have stated that the lifting problem can be caused by wax on the front rail. I can't see how this will cause the problem. FYI, there is no wax on my front rail.
THE REAL FIX:
1) Remove plastic Plate (#27).
2) Unscrew the Locking Handle. Just grab and unscrew. Don’t try to use a wrench on the hex-head at its base. (It’s plastic and will round over) The handle prevents the Pin (#24) from being removed.
3) Drift out the Pin (#24) that holds “Clamper-A” and the Eccentric Roller (#20) in the Front Block.
4) Remove “Clamper-A” from the Front Block and remove the Eccentric Roller from “Clamper-A”. Note which side of the Eccentric Roller holds the Rubber Plug (#21) so that you can reassemble everything correctly.
5) Bend the tip of “Clamper-A” straight if it is bent. Here is “eccentrictinkerer's” description of how he straightens the tip:
"I researched the site and found a drawing and explanation that helped me fix the problem. (It may have been in Loring's FAQ.)
It's easy to straighten the 'clamper'. Clamp the tip in a vise and tap it a few times with a hammer. I've straightened 5 of these and none have bent back. I go easy on the fence handle. You don't need much force to lock a fence if everything is set up correctly. BTW, if the end is bent, the adjustment screw can never correct the problem."
This is a bent “Clamper-A”
This is the same “Clamper-A” when straightened.
Photos by J.D. “eccentrictinkerer”
6) While it’s apart, you may try to repair the “Rubber Plug” (#21) that holds the Locking Handle up when not in use. I didn’t repair it, so I don’t know if it is possible.
7) Reassemble the parts into the Front Block. Put a drop of blue LocTite on the threads of the Locking Handle. Replace the plastic Plate with a new one if available.
8) Adjust the Screw (#5) in Clamper-B” (#6) to engage the rear rail correctly. When you lower the Locking Handle, the plastic Plate on the Front Block should press against the front rail, lock the Front Block to the front rail, and bring the fence parallel to the blade. Then “Clamper-B” will lock the rear of the fence to the rear rail as you finish moving the Locking Handle.
Make sure that “Clamper-B” mates with the rear rail correctly. Here is Ray Girling’s diagram and description …
Diagram from Ray Girling www.raygirling.com]
“Diagram "A" shows the correct method of fitting the fence to the rear rail, and the "angle of attack" means that the clamper usually needs its adjusting screw to be slacked right off first.
Hold the fence at an angle of around 35 - 40 degrees to the table (operating handle uppermost) and make sure that the clamper slides in and under the inner lip of the rear rail, then lower the front of the fence down onto the front rail, making sure that the clamper remains as at "A." When the clamper works correctly, it operates as in diagram "B."
Diagram “C” shows an incorrectly fitting clamper.
Put a drop of blue LocTite on the threads of the Screw when it is adjusted correctly.
You should not have to realign the fence after making the repairs.
My Locking Handle now locks the fence in position shortly before it reaches the horizontal position (3:00 o'clock) and the fence doesn’t lift. The process took about 30 minutes. Thanks to forum members for showing me how to fix the problem. I’m happy.
- Lonnie
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