Switch on the left . . . . .

[steve-norrell]

. . . . . or how long does it take to break bad habits?

I recently (several weeks ago) rewired the trusty BT3100 so there is a cut-off switch on the left side of the machine. Actually, the switch is suspended from the rails and can be moved as needed.

I thought I was being clever (maybe too much so) and did the wiring so that either switch, the original AND the new one, can turn the machine off. I did this by plugging the new switch into the machine's socket and then plugging the machine's plug into an outlet wired onto the new switch. Essentially, the two switches are in series and BOTH have to be on for the BT3100 to run.

My problem, really only a minor annoyance, is that old habits are slow to go away and I find myself still, but not always, using the original switch (out of habit) instead of the new one on the left side of the saw.

Talk about teaching a old dog new tricks. But at least I do have a left-side switch and an added safety feature.

Regards, Steve

[Tom Slick]

The other day I was running an older craftsman TS with a very small switch located on the lower right of the cabinet. I realized that I have to put my face inline with the blade to reach the switch. I had visions of parts flying into my face during a less-then-safe/emergency shutdown. Why are they consistantly located in that position?

At the previous place I worked, our saws had an "on" button and big 3" "stop" button located at the front left AND left side-middle of the saw (2 button sets) so you could shut down the saw from the side when cutting large material or in an emergency.

[Ed62]

Yeah, it's hard to break habits. I can't tell you how long it took me to get used to Firefox.

Ed

[cabinetman]

I would eliminate the older switch and get used to the new one. I've mounted switches right under the rail on the left side on all of the table saws I've had. My first Unisaw had the switch on the face of the cabinet on the right side, like Tom described. It was necessary to bend down and reach to the right to actuate. Make sure the switch used has the correct amperage rating.
.

[dbhost]

The previous owner of my saw wired it, and mounted it on a piece of tempered hardboard suspended from the far left of the rail. It took me about a month to get used to it there. Now mind you, the hardboard flexed, so I got rid of it in the first week and replaced it with a shop fabbed sheet metal (16 ga) bracket that still mounts the box to the rail...

I have used what was my old BTS21 twice since selling it to my friend. I REALLY hate the OEM switch location...

You should get used to it pretty quick, and will wonder how you ever used it stock afterwards..

[cgallery]

When I built my first router table (on the BT3K rails) I used the built-in table saw switch to switch the router.

There were times when I wanted to use the table saw and forgot the router was connected. Other times I thought I was turning on the router and the table saw would start up.

It got pretty exciting once so I bought another switch to dedicate to the router.

BTW, I actually like the position of the BT3000 switch. I'm a lefty and I stand to the right of the fence and pull stock towards the fence.

[siliconbauhaus]

Anyone have photos of their switch mounted to the rails? I was feeling uneasy yesterday reaching over the line of fire to turn the saw off.

[dbhost]

Anyone have photos of their switch mounted to the rails? I was feeling uneasy yesterday reaching over the line of fire to turn the saw off.

The mount is basically 16 ga galvanized T-strap, like a hurricane strap for studs to a header in a wall. (They are ultra common here). I simply marked and drilled for hole locations, mounted it all up with the shortest bolts I could find for the T nuts (and a couple of washers to make up the distance difference...).

Been rock solid since I put it in..

You can see in my configuration the SMT CAN get in the way of the switch, at least from this camera angle. In reality, it is super easy to get to if I am standing anywhere I am willing to rip lumber from... Basically out of the line of kickback fire...

You see I do have the hole in the front of the saw still. Have not figured out what I am going to use to plug it. Anyone have a suggestion for a reasonable cover plate?

[Wood_workur]

I put a rockler router table switch on my rails, and I made it able to slide much like you did.

I think it took me a cutting all the parts for my blanket chest for me to get used to the new switch.

[siliconbauhaus]

dbhost

Thanks for the photos.....gives me a excuse to make some more "p" nuts.

[steve-norrell]

I should have included a photo. Sorry, but here is one.

I elected to feed the wires through the front panel because ther is very little room on the saw's left side. The switch is mounted on 3/4 BB ply and held on the rail with standard T-nuts.

The orange plug is wired into the added switch and becomes 'live' only when plugged in and the Ryobi switch is in the 'On' position. The original Ryobi plug (male) is plugged into the plug (female) wired to the other cord coming from the added switch.

This arrangement leaves all the original switches and safety plugs functional.

Regards, Steve

[Garasaki]

I have your switch setup exactly (I bet you got yours in the same Sears sale deal I got mine), minus the original switch.

I really really really like it (I also had the sticky stock olllllld BT3k switch, so this was a HUGE upgrade). I have my table extension to the right though.

But a typical cut ends for me by slapping the big red paddle after removing my cutoffs from the blade area as I walk around the saw to grab wood off my outfeed table.

I've found myself in a few awkward positions where I've effectively "legged" the switch off (reached up with my left thigh and turned it off that way). While I'd prefer to simply not be in the sort of position, it's nice to have an effective bailout shutdown option while keeping both hands on the wood.

I bought a second switch at the same time I purchased that one. I finally got around to installing it for powering the router on my accessory table. Haven't really had a chance to use that yet. What I don't like about that setup is I will have to switch the router on, then use the switch - I only have 1 router that comes in and out of the table for hand routing too. I know I'm going to forget I have the router switched on when I go to plug it in for hand routing.

It's starting to sound like a good excuse to get a second router actually........

[SARGE..g-47]

I've found myself in a few awkward positions where I've effectively "legged" the switch off (reached up with my left thigh and turned it off that way). While I'd prefer to simply not be in the sort of position, it's nice to have an effective bailout shutdown option while keeping both hands on the wood.]

This is not a BT saw.. but with a door hinge.. a few holes drilled under the rail... and a piece of scrap ply invested, both hands can remain on top without ever having to use one to turn the saw off. The first week I did bump the saw off on occasion but... I prevent that now by not leaning deep into the table which is a good off-shoot that evolved from this.

BTW.. not to difficult to find the o paddle with your knee on this set-up.

Regards...