How to set the fence rails on a BT3K?

[Kirkus]

Hi everyone,

I just purchased a used BT3000 and I have a question that I'm hoping someone can answer. Is there a standard position for setting the fence rails? I've noticed several different measurement marks on the front rail but I can't find anything in the manual or online that explains this. I was just going to set them by positioning the gauge on the fence to a specific measurement and adjust them using a tape measure from the fence to the blade. I just don't want to miss out on a bell or whistle that I might not know about.

Any advice would be very much appreciated.

[Pappy]

One of the advantabes to the BT3000 is the ease of repositioning the rails, allowing the widest area to the left for bevel cuts or extended to the right for handling wide material. Setting the rails so the scale on the front is aligned with the indicator line on the fence gives you the smallest footprint for the saw and provides enough rail to the left for the SMT.

Some use the scale, others go strictly on a blade to fence measurement.

[Uncle Cracker]

Where you set your rails is a derivative of how you have your saw set up. Those with no miter slots installed might be different than those with one set of slots, who might be different than those with two sets of slots... Those who keep the sliding miter table installed might be different than those who don't... Those with a fabricated router table in the mix might be completely different than others. Those with two sets of rails for extended tables or whatever will be different. See where I'm going with this? Set your rails where they function best for you.

And, even if you do use the rail ruler to set your rip cut width, its always smart to double-check your setting with a fence-to-blade measurement with a tape, or by measuring the cut on a scrap piece (unless, of course, you've got a board stretcher in your tool inventory... ).

[LCHIEN]

one of the best things about the BT3 is that its infinately configurable.
You can put the rails wherevere you like and with optional hardware extend them if you want.

My normal choice is to have it so the zero indicator on the front rail scale is at zero with the fence next to the blade (zero rip width) using the indicator in the left of the rip fence handle. Then I have some wiggle room for the SMT and the Accessory table as well. But I don't hesitate to move if needed, like take the SMT off and push the rails all the way to the right for a wide rip cut.

[Kirkus]

Thanks for the replies.

I'm sure this is old-hat to most of you who've used this particular saw for a while, but as a new user all I can say is genius! Having used a cabinet saw most of my woodworking life, I didn't imagine there wasn't a permanent position for the rails.

I've always used the front rail scale to get the fence close, but also measure from the fence to the blade and make adjustments before a cut.

Yep. Genius.

[leehljp]

Thanks for the replies.

I'm sure this is old-hat to most of you who've used this particular saw for a while, but as a new user all I can say is genius! Having used a cabinet saw most of my woodworking life, I didn't imagine there wasn't a permanent position for the rails.

I've always used the front rail scale to get the fence close, but also measure from the fence to the blade and make adjustments before a cut.

Yep. Genius.

The two most used features for me are 1. the Sliding Miter Table and 2. the Movable Rails. I love the ability to cross cut boards that are balanced on the SMT with the rails being set far to one side. A real help for me.

The scale is one feature that I don't use and that is from a habit started long ago when most TS's didn't have them. I use steel rules and am very comfortable measuring down to 1/64 regularly every time. IF I go to a wide table with extra rails eventually, I will probably paste a rule and start using that feature.

[LCHIEN]

Thanks for the replies.

I'm sure this is old-hat to most of you who've used this particular saw for a while, but as a new user all I can say is genius! Having used a cabinet saw most of my woodworking life, I didn't imagine there wasn't a permanent position for the rails.

I've always used the front rail scale to get the fence close, but also measure from the fence to the blade and make adjustments before a cut.

Yep. Genius.

I have found when the scale is set to zero properly I can depend upon it for right on the spot rip widths for any length of time. I guess the problem is remembering when I've moved it off position - the solution is to double check with a ruler, or remember to set it back after you've shifted the rails. But I do find it totally reliable when left in place.

Like Hank Lee I also find it more comfortable to crosscut longer boards by moving the rails and SMT to the left more... allowing me to balance the wood on the SMT for better control.