Holy Cow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Jaywun]

A friend at work asked me to help replace some windows on his new (very old) house. He is a new homeowner and has never done any of this type of work. So I took my tools over. Mainly Stucco stuff and miter saw. Going ok, then he needs some narrow pieces ripped and mitered for inside casing. (we tore it up ripping out old windows). So I took measurements and went home to dig out (literally) my old BT3k. When I saw it in my shed, buried under 5 yrs of family crap (you know) I said uh oh. I wonder if I can find the fence, I wonder if it'll even fire up. It was filthy but seemed ok. Quick clean, checked to make sure blade (original) was on tight. then checked fence for parallel. Fired it up and ripped every strip flawless. I was so stoked, I raced home from work every day this week to competely detail it. I have never even bothered with a wet vac in the past. Inside was filthy. After a very thorough clean, lube, wax, and miter table adjustment. I cannot believe how smooth and accurate this thing cuts. Perfect miters. Dead nuts fence. I actually prefer a very, very slight outward angle on the fence. I have never appreciated the smooth, zero play miter table till now. I will never run this saw without dust collection again. Now on to make accesories, more featherboards etc. Basically I just renewed my vows with my BT3K. I actually have been looking at Craigslist for a backup. I love this saw!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Norm in Fujino]

As I said elsewhere, I just can't understand why Ryobi abandoned the BT3000; it was well worth a few upgrades (and not just in the form of the BT3100) that would have made it even better.

[leehljp]

I just posted the below yesterday on another thread:

"I have been working on some book cases lately and the SMT of the BT has made me determined I will not own a saw without a sliding table. And IF I ever change to a more powerful saw, and buy a SMT, I will make sure it has some great reviews.

I have had my SMT off and on the BT3000 several dozen times in the last 4 weeks, and about every 10th time, I check it with a registration square and (regular) square. Dead on square and parallel every time. I think it has been 4 years since I last aligned it. "

I really like my saw!

[Norm in Fujino]

It's strange, isn't it? When I was first on these woodworking fora ten years ago, the BT3000 got an awful lot of flak from people who claimed the SMT and other parts required too much setting, but I think a lot of it is a matter of how careful a person is when handling their tools. I always use a plastic drafting triangle to check for square to the blade when mounting my miter fence on the SMT, but I haven't had to adjust it in years.

(well, I guess truth to tell I haven't been using it much, either, but it's still amazing to me to come back and find it still in registration even when leaving it off for several seasons.)

[Uncle Cracker]

BT... The little saw that could...

[vaking]

As I said earlier - I think it has to do with market for BT vs other saws. There is a big market for contractor saws. Contractor saws are very robust and rugged, they cost usually between $500 and $1200 but they also are not very accurate. They are designed to handle construction lumber more than expensive hardwoods. There is also a sizable market of cabinet saws. Those saws are also robust and they are accurate but they usually cost north of $2000 and they also have high profit margin for the manufacturer. BT is in unique position that it has accuracy that rivals cabinet saws but sells in a price range even below most contractor saws. The savings come from BT being less rugged than other types.
If you think who would want to use a very accurate but not rugged saw - you will understand that it is unfit for any professional woodworker or the contractor. The only person who wants it is a woodworking hobbyist with aspirations (and hopefully skills) to make fine furniture. Hobbyist is a person who does not have a revenue stream dependent on this saw so he will not pay big money for a hobby and the profit margin is not high. The demand is also not very high - how many hobbyists do you think there are that need accuracy of cabinetmaker saw? Low margin and low demand spells disaster for the manufacturer.

[Sawatzky]

"Contractor saws are very robust and rugged, they cost usually between $500 and $1200 but they also are not very accurate. They are designed to handle construction lumber more than expensive hardwoods."


I disagree with this. I had a BT3100 and replaced it with the Ridgid TS3650 and find the Ridgid to be much more persice, powerful, and smoother running. Maybe the older contractor saws were junk, but the newer ones seem to be great saws for the money.

[rh111]

"Contractor saws are very robust and rugged, they cost usually between $500 and $1200 but they also are not very accurate. They are designed to handle construction lumber more than expensive hardwoods."

I disagree with this. I had a BT3100 and replaced it with the Ridgid TS3650 and find the Ridgid to be much more persice, powerful, and smoother running. Maybe the older contractor saws were junk, but the newer ones seem to be great saws for the money.

+1

Granted I did not own a BT, but upgraded from a Sears POS to a Delta Contractor. Contractor saws have their limits and limitations.

My grandfather originally bought a Delta Contractor in the early 80's when he was a general contractor. About 8 years ago, he was going to get rid of it and upgrade to a cabinet or hybrid for cabinet and furniture making. I told him that for a few hundred bucks (link belt, pulleys, miter gauge, and a thorough cleaning and calibration) that we could make this saw comparable to a hybrid without the dust control. To back it up, I told him that I would buy the saw off of him if he was not happy when we were done. Well, low and behold he is still loving the saw and the upgrades made and I did not get a gloat out of the deal.

Fast forward 5 years from that point in time, about three years ago, I bought myself a Delta Contractor, made the upgrades and could not be happier. I does everything that I want it to do and more. I am very happy with my "contractor" saw and enjoy making sawdust with it.

[chopnhack]

Good for you Jaywun and welcome to the best forum!

[leehljp]

"Contractor saws are very robust and rugged, they cost usually between $500 and $1200 but they also are not very accurate. They are designed to handle construction lumber more than expensive hardwoods."

I disagree with this. I had a BT3100 and replaced it with the Ridgid TS3650 and find the Ridgid to be much more persice, powerful, and smoother running. Maybe the older contractor saws were junk, but the newer ones seem to be great saws for the money.

LOL. I had a unisaw (became mine when my father died) and sold it. I upgraded to a BT3000 and a BT3100. Seriously! (Dad had complained constantly about it and I also used it when I was back home.)

Something on the Unisaw had to be adjusted after every few hours of use and it was not worth it just for the sake of the name. It would pass the nickel test but I think it had a very fine vibration that just caused things to loosen or move over a few hours of use.

What gets me is that cheaper saws will be lambasted for problems because they are cheap or light weight. But when similar problems on heavy saws crop up, they are summarily dismissed as "well it happens". I recall several of Norm's postings of people with Unisaw (and other) dissatisfaction.

I do realize that the BT will not handle a slam from a 2X4, but neither will a Bessy fence! I also know that the BT will not handle 2x4 ripping as fast as it can be fed by the operator. But I will put my BT's up against any Uni in terms of accuracy and smooth cuts. I don't treat my BT's special either. Shucks, I haven't adusted the SMT in 4 years and the registration square is dead on today. The Unisaw of dad's didn't have that kind of accuracy over a month of use with the fence alone.

[Uncle Cracker]

Well said, Hank... That's probably why a BT is billed as a "precision cutting system" rather than as a "table saw".

[billwmeyer]

I can't really remember how long I have had my BT3000. I bought it new. When I assembled it, it was dead on accurate and no adjustments needed. I have never adjusted it. It is still dead on accurate, and it has not been treated nicely.

If I won the lottery and built my dream shop, I might buy a unisaw. But I would keep my BT and it would be my first choice to use.

Bill

[PhilofKayDu]

WOW! I have had my BT3K for a few months. It has replaced an antique Craftsman 8" bench top saw that I have used for over 2 decades. But the new to me BT3K, with a few past owners, is pretty acurite. I too had to minerly adjust the SMT. I"m fairly sure mine was made in 1999. And I am enjoying working on my saw!!!!!! Phil

[twistsol]

I bought my original BT3000 in 1997 and burned out the motor one weekend running about a half mile of 3/4 inch dados. At the time the 3100 was 299 at HD so I picked one up, slid the body into the rails of the 3000 and finished the job. I think I've aligned it three times in twelve years and the first time was because i bought an HD floor model that really screwed up.

[billstr]

I bought mine in 2000 for $566, close to it's high. At the time I wanted something compact for the garage, precise, and able to move out of the way of the car. That was before they had good hybrids so it was a unisaw without extensions, or BT3000, and I could afford either. I just decided that I shouldn't spend that much on the uni as a hobbyist. It has performed beautifully. I took a tiny amount of wear out of one adjustment screw in the SMT at 7 years, mostly because I felt guilty, and everything else has stayed dead on. It is easy to collect dust, and with the cabinet modifications I have made, it is stable. I dread the day it gives up and can't be repaired. I almost purchased another one to store in one of my kid's houses just for that day.