BT3000 Sleuths: Is It the Motor?

[Powerseed]

Greetings from a first time poster who's glad you're all here!

I have a BT3000 mfg. ca. July 1994 per the S/N. It has a 15 amp motor.

I've only been using my saw sporadically over the last seven hears or so since I've moved. I've been having a lot of problems with the saw bogging down and kicking breakers or the temp overload circuit on the motor. Fortunately no blue flame or pyrotechnics yet.

Thinking the motor was on its last legs, I removed it and took it to a motor shop for an eyeballing. They didn't get into it because they said parts weren't available but they couldn't see anything indicative of motor trauma. No smoke deposits or odors! I removed and inspected the brushes. They were about 1/2 to 5/8" long and curved to fit the commutator, with shiny contact surfaces showing a some slight crazing (webwork of micro-cracks).

http://www.bt3central.com/images/smilies/frown.gif True confessions time: Due to the saw's location I've had it plugged into a portable plug strip which is plugged into a 15 amp outlet. The temp overload on the strip kicks out frequently and I have also kicked the circuit breaker at other times.

I have three Questions:

1. Could the plug strip be limiting the effective amperage reaching the motor causing the lugging down on the saw? I know with 20-20 hindsight that I should have checked this out using another outlet but, hey, it's all torn down and if this is a motor issue, I'd like to find out now.
2. The original belts look great with no cracks evident on bending--any reason to replace them?
3. With the saw torn down, it's a good opportunity for upgrades...heard the shims on the 3100 were a better design. Do you recommend upgrading the shims?

I appreciate any and all help!

My best,

Bill Curry

[pelligrini]

Welcome aboard!

It sounded like a power problem to me before I got to the part about the power strip. You might try a 12ga extension cord if you need an extension. It should be as short as possible. What is the load on the circuit you have it on? Is it far from your panel & service entrance?

If the belts are working now, there is no need to fix them. Most folks won't change them for the fun of it.

I can't really comment on the shims.

[Knottscott]

I'm with Pelligrini....sounds like a circuit issue. Any chance of trying it on a different circuit with nothing else running on it?

[poolhound]

Greetings from a first time poster who's glad you're all here!

I have a BT3000 mfg. ca. July 1994 per the S/N. It has a 15 amp motor.

I've only been using my saw sporadically over the last seven hears or so since I've moved. I've been having a lot of problems with the saw bogging down and kicking breakers or the temp overload circuit on the motor. Fortunately no blue flame or pyrotechnics yet.

Thinking the motor was on its last legs, I removed it and took it to a motor shop for an eyeballing. They didn't get into it because they said parts weren't available but they couldn't see anything indicative of motor trauma. No smoke deposits or odors! I removed and inspected the brushes. They were about 1/2 to 5/8" long and curved to fit the commutator, with shiny contact surfaces showing a some slight crazing (webwork of micro-cracks).

http://www.bt3central.com/images/smilies/frown.gif True confessions time: Due to the saw's location I've had it plugged into a portable plug strip which is plugged into a 15 amp outlet. The temp overload on the strip kicks out frequently and I have also kicked the circuit breaker at other times.

I have three Questions:

1. Could the plug strip be limiting the effective amperage reaching the motor causing the lugging down on the saw? I know with 20-20 hindsight that I should have checked this out using another outlet but, hey, it's all torn down and if this is a motor issue, I'd like to find out now.
2. The original belts look great with no cracks evident on bending--any reason to replace them?
3. With the saw torn down, it's a good opportunity for upgrades...heard the shims on the 3100 were a better design. Do you recommend upgrading the shims?

I appreciate any and all help!

My best,

Bill Curry

The answers to a couple of extra questions may also help.

1. what GA is the plug strip you are using?
2. What else is on the same circuit (running) e.g. Shop Vac, lights, radio, portable AC etc.
3. What are you trying to cut 1/4" ply or 8/4 hard maple?
4. What blade? Type, thickness and condition?

In a perfect world the saw runs best directly connected to a 20A circuit. If using a 15A try not to use an extension but if you must make it short and preferably a HDuty one (12GA best 14GA min). Before I rewired my shop (garage) I had a single 15A circuit that also had everything else on it (Fridge/Freezer, Radio, chargers and shop vac). I would quite frequently have the breaker trip, especially when cutting thicker stock. Since I rewired I havent had a single issue.

When ripping thick HW this saw will always have a hard time if you try a feed rate thats too fast. Likewize if you have a full kerf blade thats dull or coated in pitch you will over strain the motor. When ripping try a TK 24T ripper. You can pick the Diablo up at HD for not much and it works well. The difference a good quality sharp blade makes can be amazing, even a poor blade thats sharp really helps.

[crokett]

I am thinking it is a circuit issue. Put it on its own 20A circuit and get rid of the power strips. At my first house I attempted to run my saw on a 15A circuit. I had the problems you describe. It didn't work very well. I ended up pulling larger wire and running a 30A breaker out to the shed and then splitting that into two circuits, one for power tools and one for the lights. The saw did much better after that.

I would upgrade the shims while it is torn down instead of waiting until you have a problem. The labor to put it back together is the same either way.

[conwaygolfer]

As far as the shims go, do a search here looking for shims. You will find an article that shows you how to fix the problem with shims that get stuck. I did what it said and have had no problems since. You have to drill and tap into the locker bracket and place a small piece of metal that holds the shims in place. If you are a little handy, it is quite easy. Especially since you already have it apart. I just used some old L brackets and cut them to fit sizewise.

Glenn

[Tom Slick]

What size and length extension cord are you using?

[Powerseed]

Thanks Much!

Don't believe it is a blade problem...using sharp, clean Freuds for rip and cross...more and more convinced it's the power thing... and the dummy who set it up. I just checked and the plug strip was 14 gauge and the 10 foot extension was...16 gauge (oye). I was also running the Ryobi tank vac and a 40 W fluorescent fixture. At this point I am going to reassemble and do what I should have in the first place...put it on a new 20 amp direct plug circuit.

Thanks to all,

Bill

[Tom Slick]

16 gauge isn't big enough, you need a minimum 14 and 12 would be better, but I'm not sure that is the problem.

[LCHIEN]

One critical question is what kind of cut were you trying to make?? A real long 3+" deep rip in hard wood???

the way I see your problem is that the saw is trying to tell you soemthing when it keeps overheating an tripping breakers.

What its trying to tell you is that its drawing the max current and not getting the job done.

Now this could be because
A. The saws not capable of that cut - The cut is too deep and you are pushing/feeding to fast and too hard and the blades not sharp/cutting efficiently OR
B. The saw is capable of the cut but its electrical supply is restricted and not getting enough power/voltage which is causing it to draw more current to do the job whihc overheats the saw.

if its A then you need to sharpen the blade, get a ripping blade, feed slower etc. make two passes.
If its B this can be becasue you have other equipment on the same circuit, the cords are too long and too small, you have bad connectors.

It sound like B of you have a shop vac, these normally draw 6-8 amps just by themselves which means the saw only gets 8-9 before the breakers trip, the cords are lossy and the saw not getting full voltage.

If yo keep running it like this then you are slowly damaging the motor repeatedly overheating it and the insulation is going to break own and fail.
A dedicated 20A circuit with 12 ga. wiring everywhere is a real nice thing for your saw.

[Jim Frye]

Get a bigger pipe

I can tell you from experience that you are limiting the saw's power with the extension cord and possibly the circuit.
I have a Ryobi 15 amp. planer that will trip a 15 amp. breaker due to the length of the circuit to the garage and the gauge of the circuit wire. In my shop, it will run with no problems. My 13 amp. BT3K will rip 3 1/2" maple on a single pass without tripping the 20 amp. circuit it is on. The 15 amp. saw should have plenty of power, but if you choke the current supply with insufficient wiring, you will see a decrease in the saw's power.

[scmhogg]

OT

Jim Frye, how did you get classified as a Newbie??

Steve

[Sam Conder]

OT

Jim Frye, how did you get classified as a Newbie??

Steve

Total posts.

[Jim Frye]

I'm always new at something...

OT

Jim Frye, how did you get classified as a Newbie??

Steve

I assume that during my absence from this site I lost all of my old posts from the previous web site software. I'm a newbie to this forum software. The "newbie" title doesn't mean much to me. Hopefully, it is quality, not quantity for me. I am a member of a automobile forum and there is a guy there that brags constantly about the number of posts he has over anyone else on the forum. Unfortunately, most of his writing is either flames or dog do do.