For one reason or another, the calamity to my fence pretty much put the skids to starting my big project (bedroom suite) on time. I decided to take the time to make sure that my tools were reasonably well aligned before tearing into ~$900 worth of hardwood (mostly cherry). Found the stock throat plate on my Makita 10" SCMS was cracked and decided to take the time to make a ZCTP for it from some 1/2 baltic birch ply. Beautimous. Started re-aligning the saw, got it making perfect 90° cuts (we'll see how long *that* lasts), and started on making a zero clearance back fence as well. Ripped a piece of baltic birch plywood, then went to cut a slight rabbet along the bottom edge for dust clearance. The rabbet was *noticeably narrower at one end than the other. WTH?!?
Fiddled around and found that this fence, much like my previous one, is a good bit shy of having enough adjustment to align with the blade properly. I have a sacrificial face on the fence now, but its out of alignment both with and without the face. I tucked some playing cards behind the face at various points, and got things down to where I'm about 6-7 thou wider at the back end than at the front end (according to my cheapy $30 dial indicator). I was considering pulling things apart and sticking some tape shims on the back of the fence at appropriate locations to get the difference down to under 3-4 thou (one sheet of paper, or the amount commonly referenced as a good number to have the tail of the fence kicked out by to prevent any binding). Then I got ta wondering (usually a bad sign)... better off to go for zero, and no taper (at all) to the cut, or be satisfied w/ a small amount (for the reason already specified)? I realize it is wood, and it will move, and the whole setup is not the best for trying to get that nit-picky with... but this fence is bugging the heck out of me. I think tomorrow I'll have to take it apart and look for any burrs and maybe file the holes a little so I don't have to use quite so many shims (2-3 cards at ~0.011" each) at the one end.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Monte
Fiddled around and found that this fence, much like my previous one, is a good bit shy of having enough adjustment to align with the blade properly. I have a sacrificial face on the fence now, but its out of alignment both with and without the face. I tucked some playing cards behind the face at various points, and got things down to where I'm about 6-7 thou wider at the back end than at the front end (according to my cheapy $30 dial indicator). I was considering pulling things apart and sticking some tape shims on the back of the fence at appropriate locations to get the difference down to under 3-4 thou (one sheet of paper, or the amount commonly referenced as a good number to have the tail of the fence kicked out by to prevent any binding). Then I got ta wondering (usually a bad sign)... better off to go for zero, and no taper (at all) to the cut, or be satisfied w/ a small amount (for the reason already specified)? I realize it is wood, and it will move, and the whole setup is not the best for trying to get that nit-picky with... but this fence is bugging the heck out of me. I think tomorrow I'll have to take it apart and look for any burrs and maybe file the holes a little so I don't have to use quite so many shims (2-3 cards at ~0.011" each) at the one end.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Monte
LCHIEN
Loring in Katy, TX USA
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