Seems A Little Rediculouse - Rail Kit

[brubakes]

Now, let me first say that I am just now learning there was even a longer/wide rail system for our saws, but this seems like a rather high amount for an "aftermarket" connecting kit. Is the hardware that comes with a longer/wide rail kit that bad to warrant a kit like this?

CLICK.

[Uncle Cracker]

Now, let me first say that I am just now learning there was even a longer/wide rail system for our saws, but this seems like a rather high amount for an "aftermarket" connecting kit. Is the hardware that comes with a longer/wide rail kit that bad to warrant a kit like this?

If you saw the way that "aftermarket" kit was built, compared to the chintzy standard factory hardware, you would understand better. The komatoast kit is so robust, you can even mount a half set of rails without the need for legs or any further support. Like so much custom hardware made especially for a niche application, there is no mass market, and no opportunity for a lot of profit from volume.

[docrowan]

I got excited when I saw the price - $6.95. I was about to pull out my wallet and place the order. Then I saw it was just for the shipping.

Yea, for $44.95 plus shipping I believe I can scrounge around my shop and get something that will work. Besides, who needs 4 links? Most people only want to connect 2 sets of rails together.

Having said that I'd gladly pay $10 or $12 plus shipping for two links and the bolts and nuts - not worth my time at that price to figure out something else.

[LCHIEN]

four links are required to connect the bottom and one side of each to provide stiffness in each direction.

Of course the original wide table kit had a set of connecting hardware. You only need this guys kit if you buy a pair of rails from an original saw and not the WTK.

KOmatoats kit is nicely machined stuff, but I think other solutions work equally as well. KT looks for people who are looking for convenience or just don't know about any other way. He's got some other relatively expensive accessories, too. Yo have the option to buy, or not to buy.

Quite a few people have made their connecting sets - metal straps with holes from the hardware store, Or, just 2 short angle irons in aluminum drilled to match the slot locations, plus some short bolts and some T-nuts. Use your ingenuity and save $45.


WTK from Ryobi still can be had for about $100.
Used rails alone go for about $40 a set, so he probably priced the connecting kit so a used set of rails plus his kit is still cheaper than the WTK, retail price.

[brubakes]

Rereading my post I might have sounded a bit harsh on the seller. Like I said, I am not overly familiar with "options" for our saw. I believe in getting the job done right and if these parts are made and are able to correct a factory problem great. The price just seems high to me.

[gsmittle]

Rereading my post I might have sounded a bit harsh on the seller. Like I said, I am not overly familiar with "options" for our saw. I believe in getting the job done right and if these parts are made and are able to correct a factory problem great. The price just seems high to me.

Yeah, the price seems high, but how valuable is your time? It took me over four hours to drill, tap, and fabricate something similar. My solution wasn't nearly as well machined. I don't have facilities for working metal, so komatoast's parts are pretty handy if you're short on time. Myself, I had all summer, so I took the cheaper route. Knowing what I know now, I would probably opt to buy the connectors.

g.

[LCHIEN]

Rereading my post I might have sounded a bit harsh on the seller. Like I said, I am not overly familiar with "options" for our saw. I believe in getting the job done right and if these parts are made and are able to correct a factory problem great. The price just seems high to me.

I don't think there's a "factory problem" These WTK kits have been made since about 1992-3 with no change or complaints I've heard.

[steve-norrell]

Yeah, the price seems high, but how valuable is your time? . . . . . so komatoast's parts are pretty handy if you're short on time.

Same here. Komatoast's prices have gone up, but so has everything else, including the value of your time. I have gone both routes and event though I am not a metal worker, I was able to fabricate serviceable parts but they don't come close to the quality of Komatoast's.

The four-hole connectors are important, IMO, because the counter any rotational tendency caused by nasty gravity. As noted above, one set is enough to support half-rails without legs. Certainly, if you do elect to fabricate your own, it would be well worth the effort to use the four-hole idea.

Regards, Steve

[Uncle Cracker]

Having used both kits, I can tell you that the difference is night and day. The fit and heft of the komatoast kit is head-and-shoulders above the factory stuff. The steel is way thicker, the holes placed better, and 4 holes vs. 2 is a huge improvement. With the factory kit, you can hang the rails from the table. With the upgrade kit, you can hang the table from the rails...

[RodKirby]

From my archive (August 2004)...

WT Connectors – BT3000


Well, these worked out fine. Guys, these are not difficult make – all you need is a template, Drill press, 1/8” and 5/16” drill bits. (DP speed 2,200 RPM). If you are uncomfortable working with metal (I am), remember that Aluminum is light and “soft”, not like steel, heavy and hard.

Two pieces of aluminum angle – 2” x 2” (external), ¼” thick, 6” long.

The 5/16” holes are 1-1/8” from each end and located (measured inside the angle):

Front: 7/8” in for underneath, 21/32” for the vertical pair

Rear: 7/8” in for all holes

To locate the hole, I used a template (see pic). It’s fairly easy to set up – just make sure you do it carefully. Chuck a 1/8” bit and use the template to locate where to drill. Remove the template before you start drilling. To start, touch gently with the bit and it will “dimple” the aluminum enough to prevent wandering. Don’t hurry. You can drill 6 of the 8 holes (7/8” in) without altering the setup. After the 1/8” holes are drilled, swap to the 5/16” bit and complete the holes – if you’re gentle, and hold the aluminum firmly, there is very little “chatter” as you begin the hole. I found I did not need to use clamps.

Countersink the holes slightly, and cleanup with steel wool.

[LCHIEN]

just out of curiousity I looked up what it would take to make a deluxe connector set:
8 bolts per rail (2 each side, bottom, and inside ) 1/4-20 x 1/2", plus lock washer 16 total .07+.03 ea = 1.60
12 Lg, and 4 ex lg T-nuts from t-nuts.com $19 + 4.50 shipping = 23.50
and 2 ft. of 1.5x1.5 x 1/8" aluminum angle = $6.32+$11 shipping = 17.32
Total $43 plus cutting and drilling. Makes Komatoast prices look much better.

I suppose that by using angles instead of strips you get more torsional strength so you could do like Rod K and only use a total of 8 bolts and save some T-nuts and bolts.


BTW ROD- what did you screw the bolts into? The rail? Ryobi T-nuts?

Now, whats the absolutely cheapest way to attach rails?
Gte some "Mending plates" by stanley, 3/4" wide and 4" or 5" long. About $3 each.
These will lay in the t-track (whose opening is at least .80"). Drill holes in the plates, 4 per plate (they already have 2 sometimes 4). Drill matching, 1/4-20 tapped holes in the bottom and insides of the rails where they won't show. Put 1/4-20 bolts through the mending plates into the rails.
Probably about $15 or less in parts, all available at Lowes or HD if you buy them all new.

[pelligrini]

Nice Loring, I was wondering what the cost might be myself. I knew it wasn't cheap.

Another pretty stable method is to shape a hardwood insert that will fit inside the rails and fasten it with a couple countersunk machine screws. I picked up a set of half rails where the previous owner had made the inserts for. Not having the exterior fastener plates in the way was good too.

[Black wallnut]

A different option is to build a cart like mine and just dispense with joining the rails. My rails are mounted onto my cart such that they line up.

[brubakes]

Nice cart. I am planning on building something similar this spring. It will account for the longer rails I just bought.

[Schleeper]

Having used both kits, I can tell you that the difference is night and day. The fit and heft of the komatoast kit is head-and-shoulders above the factory stuff. The steel is way thicker, the holes placed better, and 4 holes vs. 2 is a huge improvement. With the factory kit, you can hang the rails from the table. With the upgrade kit, you can hang the table from the rails...

I've tried both, also, and I couldn't have said it better. (However, Rod's one piece design looks pretty darn attractive!)