Replacement Power Switch

[daveyourself]

Any thoughts on this switch from Grizzly:

http://grizzly.com/products/110V-Pad...f-Switch/H8241



Rated up to 16 amps max, that should be adequate for the BT yea?

They also give a 1/2 HP rating but I'm unsure what the HP rating for the BT motor is.

[Tom Slick]

I'd pay $3 more and get this switch

http://grizzly.com/products/110-220V...f-Switch/H8243

[LinuxRandal]

I don't see what saw you own. And I am not sure it is even in the profiles anymore.

I prefer when possible to have it mounted on the front under the rail (if you have a BT series, or sister saw). Something like the one from Rockler or Sears parts would do.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17401

[dbhost]

I'd pay $3 more and get this switch

http://grizzly.com/products/110-220V...f-Switch/H8243

I like that switch. Looks like a good switch for a tool project like a router cabinet, or even an external switch for a vac / DC enclosure setup.

[Tom Slick]

I'm a little suspicious that it is 1/2 price of other inexpensive switches, I'd like to see one in person.

[dbhost]

Possibly, but for the most part, Grizzly is pretty careful about what they attach their name to. The only fuss I have heard about them is high shipping costs, and short warranties...

[pecker]

I put the beefier version of that switch, which the second poster mentioned, on my Rigid saw.


It is quite a bit deeper than the one pictured, and requires a large electrical box to house it. Add in the cost of wire, a plug, crimp-on electrical connectors, mounting bracket, and the general hassle of it all... and it might be better to just buy an all-in-one solution, like the one linked to from Rockler.

Or this one, from woodworker.com
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPR...addle%20Switch

I'm pretty sure Steel City sells a replacement for their equipment that looks like the Grizzly and has wires, etc included.

[dbhost]

I put the beefier version of that switch, which the second poster mentioned, on my Rigid saw.


It is quite a bit deeper than the one pictured, and requires a large electrical box to house it. Add in the cost of wire, a plug, crimp-on electrical connectors, mounting bracket, and the general hassle of it all... and it might be better to just buy an all-in-one solution, like the one linked to from Rockler.

Or this one, from woodworker.com
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPR...addle%20Switch

I'm pretty sure Steel City sells a replacement for their equipment that looks like the Grizzly and has wires, etc included.

How do you mean large electrical box? That looks like a standard single switch box from any of the box stores.

Chances are good, at least with the woodworkers I know, they also are through to the core DIY'ers and have a pretty decent stash of electrical bits and pieces including wire, crimp terminals or wire nuts (for this application due to vibration possibility use crimps) or even solder and shrink tubing, electrical boxes, etc... I would be very surprised if any of them included the wiring harness especially since moving the switch isn't exactly what the MFG had in mind...

[BobSch]

It is quite a bit deeper than the one pictured, and requires a large electrical box to house it. Add in the cost of wire, a plug, crimp-on electrical connectors, mounting bracket, and the general hassle of it all... and it might be better to just buy an all-in-one solution, like the one linked to from Rockler.

Or this one, from woodworker.com
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPR...addle%20Switch

I see the one from woodworker.com comes with the electrical box: Switch mounts into 4-1/8"H x 2-5/16W" x 2-3/8"D electrical box (included)

[LarryG]

The Rockler switch to which LR links has a 2' long female cord included. Plug the little pigtail cord on the BT into the female cord, then plug the switch into the wall. Can't get any easier than that.

The only question is whether the 2' female cord would allow the switch to be moved sufficiently far to the left, where most would prefer it. IIRC the BT's saw body is 20" wide. While the cord might reach, technically, it probably couldn't be routed elegantly. If the switch were mounted just far enough to the left to clear the height/tilt handwheel, it *might* be long enough.

[pecker]

How do you mean large electrical box? That looks like a standard single switch box from any of the box stores.

Chances are good, at least with the woodworkers I know, they also are through to the core DIY'ers and have a pretty decent stash of electrical bits and pieces including wire, crimp terminals or wire nuts (for this application due to vibration possibility use crimps) or even solder and shrink tubing, electrical boxes, etc... I would be very surprised if any of them included the wiring harness especially since moving the switch isn't exactly what the MFG had in mind...

The only box it fit in was the grey, conduit type box. It was too deep for the metal or plastic outlet boxes... although there are extensions available to make metal boxes deeper.

I'm referring to the 220volt switch, now...not the smaller one the original poster linked to.

[daveyourself]

Exactly what I was thinking, house the switch in a regular single gang box then attach to the rails with some t-nuts.

[L. D. Jeffries]

Switch Replacment

I've had my BT3 for about six years now and even though my partner and I bought a new BIG saw I plan on keeping the old BT3 to use for "fine" work. However, after all those years the switch finally went south. Always having been one to err on the side of safety I put a plug-in that the saw itself is plugged into that is controlled by the saw switch. In other words; power to the switch and then to the plug-in which has the saw motor power cord plugged onto. This way when I need to make adjustments I can unplug the saw and not worry about some glitch that starts the saw. Guess like wearing a belt and suspenders at the same time. Anyway, put one of the GriZZ switches on the saw and so far it seems like a good buy..cheap but good! Only real problem was not enough room to mount it on the left side of the case due to the tilt wheel clearance at 45 deg. so had to mount it in the space where the old switch was. We shall see how it works out.