Aluminum marks my wood

[hobkirk]

The left edge of the main table leaves a gray streak on the wood I'm cutting. The other ribs also leave marks, but not as pronounced.

What's the cure?

1. Clear spray paint? UGH!
2. Wax? Just let it build up in the valleys between the ribs?
3. Polish to a high luster? How?
4. Sand everything I cut?
5. Buy another saw? WHAT???

Thanks all...

[Copper]

I put a coat of paste wax on the top of mine (the saw, not the wood). The amount and the reapplication schedule would depend on how often the saw gets used. I don't apply enough to have it build up in the grooves. A light sanding takes care of the spots if the wax wears off.

[poolhound]

I 2nd Copper's comments. First clean the surface well and then apply paste was and buff. Done regularly I have never had an issue with marks on my stock and they are easier to feed.

[eezlock]

aluminum marks my wood

Best thing to do is clean the saw ( don't use any abrasive) then apply a couple of good coats of Johnson's or Minwax pastewax and buff it out.
Do this on a regular basis, I have done this for 3 years and no problem with streaking yet, also makes wood slide across the saw a lot easier too! eezlock

[shoottx]

Lowes in our area carries Johnson paste wax.

I have done as the others describe. Works great!

[JimD]

I found Johnson's in the grocery store in the floor care products. I am still using the can I bought at least 5 years ago. It also slicks up my extension tables and router table.

You need to avoid anything with silicone because it may affect the finish. I would stay away from anything meant to go on a car. There seems to be no effect from the contact with Johnson's.

Jim

[poolhound]

I found Johnson's in the grocery store in the floor care products. I am still using the can I bought at least 5 years ago. It also slicks up my extension tables and router table.

Jim

LOL - I am exactly the same I am still using the same can from about 5 years back. It gets used on all my tables, jointer, BS router etc. I also us some as a final finish on some projects. My guess is I will still be using this can up for 5 more years

[hobkirk]

Any ideas other than wax?

Best thing to do is clean the saw ( don't use any abrasive) then apply a couple of good coats of Johnson's or Minwax pastewax and buff it out... eezlock

Oops? I used a RO Sander with worn-in 180 grit paper.
I just used Minwax paste wax, buffed it lightly, and I still get marks.
Help! I'm doing a huge job!
I need to do a project that involves 4 cuts at each end to expose round tenons that didn't have the shoulders removed. It takes almost a minute to sand the marks off. I have 700 pieces that need this and 700 that need the 2 cuts per end! (I only need to do about 80 per batch)

FYI, these are parts for 350 child rockers that I insanely bought at an estate sale. Here's a picture of the unfinished tenons...

...and here's one of the stacks...

You can see why I wouldn't want to leave marks!

[pelligrini]

You might try Boeshield T-9, or another wax application.

I'd use some finer grits to get your rough sanded areas as smooth as possible first.

[shoottx]

The left edge of the main table leaves a gray streak on the wood I'm cutting. The other ribs also leave marks, but not as pronounced.

What's the cure?

1. Clear spray paint? UGH!
2. Wax? Just let it build up in the valleys between the ribs?
3. Polish to a high luster? How?
4. Sand everything I cut?
5. Buy another saw? WHAT???

Thanks all...

How are you using the saw? Is it with a the smt, or with out the smt attached to the saw, or is it on the auxiliary table.

How consistent are the rungs?

[cork58]

I have the same problem, but I know how to solve it! Its a product called Top Cote. We just had this same subject a couple of weeks ago. That being said I can't get any because I live in Alaska and nobody that I can find will ship because of the Haz Mat in the air to get it here. Cabinetman really knows about this stuff and was sorry I can't get it. He uses it and doesn't have the maintance that waxes has. You will need to clean the surface really good then just spray on and let dry. It is sold at Rockler, Peachtree, and others. PM Cabinetman and I'm sure he will help.

Just my thoughts.

[Black wallnut]

Do you still have the plastic spacer tape on the underside of you SMT where it attaches to the rails? If not then your SMT fence dragging on the main table top may be stripping the wax off in short order.

First clean your saw's top with mineral spirits to remove any substances.

Second apply a coat of paste wax (Minwax is fine) and allow to set up/ haze over.

Third buff lightly with a clean terry cloth rag.

[hobkirk]

Such great responses!

1. 3 layers of wax helped but didn't cure it.
2. The 1st rib (left-most, table top) is the main problem, but I get a little from the 2nd rib also.
3. I do have the strip on my SMT but the wood does slightly "hit" that first rib sometimes (not always).
4. I am now waiting for the T9 to dry (I thought it was just for steel)

Thanks one and all

[pelligrini]

Please tell us how it works out.

[hobkirk]

After letting the T9 dry overnight, I polished it to remove to still-wet goop. So it's sitting on 3 layers of wax. And I still get some marks, although much, much less pronounced. And still just from the left-most rib on the table.

I may decide to build a sled to hold the wood so that only the sled rubs the table top. But maybe the marks will diminish of their own accord as I experiment more.

I pursued this subject because I was surprised to find such a limitation on such a beloved saw. I've had mine for over a year (actually I had two) but this is the first time I've actually started using it. Thanks again for all your advice - this community is quite remarkable.