Adjusting the height of the sliding mitre table

[seagypsy]

I was ripping a full size 2x4 on the saw tonite and the first strip was 1/4 inch on the bottom of the strip and 3/8 inch on the top. Got out my square and found the blade was VERY slightly out of square(don't think it was enough to account for the dimensions on the strip I cut). While getting the saw blade square to the table, I notice the sliding table was a little over 1/16 inch higher than the top of the saw table. Thinking that might have cocked the 2x4, thus putting the bevel on the strip of wood I cut, I checked the 2x4 with the square, and the cut was a perfect 90 degrees. Maybe the 2x4(rough cut cypress) had been a a little out of square, but of course I didn't check that before the cut. Anyway, my question is, Is the sliding table supposed to be a little higher than the saw table surface? If not, is there a way to adjust the sliding table height?(I didn't see this in Loring's FAQ)

[LCHIEN]

the answer to that question is that yes, the SMT is usally a bit higher than the main table. I always hear numbers like .020" to .030" or so which is about 1/32 in or less.
It has always seemed to be that way by design and the best guess is that the designers were trying to keep workpieces from catching on or dragging on the main table when they pushed the SMT forward.

From the user point of view, ripping pieces like you did that are wide enough (is a 2x4 that wide???) may tilt the wood a bit or even tilt wider piece being crosscut.
I also find it a bit of a bother when trying to crosscut dado or groove boards to a specific depth the SMT adds the extra height and the depth is not as expected.

The solution is to take off your SMT, look on the bottom where it rides on the rails, you'll find a strip of slick plastic that slides on top of the rail, you can remove this plastic (just glued onto the bottom of the SMT ) and it'll make the SMT almost completely flush. Probably won't affect the sliding friction any to worry about.
This was the course of action suggested by Ryobi a few years back when they were asked. Just beware that pieces may drag or catchon the main table as you push them forward with the SMT.

As for the 2x4, its not totally unlikley it was out of square. When using 2x4 material for anything accurate /not rough work, I always square up the edges before working further, anyway.

[slieber967]

smt

sorry to hijack the tread but since loring is one of the resident experts.
i loosened the front right adjuster on the smt in a fit of dyslexia. how do i get it back to the factory setting?

thanks.
kc

glue ups and screw ups

[LCHIEN]

sorry to hijack the tread but since loring is one of the resident experts.
i loosened the front right adjuster on the smt in a fit of dyslexia. how do i get it back to the factory setting?

thanks.
kc

glue ups and screw ups

you mean one of the four screws, the eccentric screws?
Be careful they're a bit brittle.
you need to hild it with a screwdriver on the top and turn the nut int he back. Turning the screw adjusts the play in the slide, due to the eccentric shaft/head alignment.

[slieber967]

smt adjustment

sorry, not making myself clear. if i remember the manual correctly when adjusting the smt you are not supposed to touch the right front screw.
you adjust with the other three. unfortunately i loosened the right front screw and was wondering if there were some way of getting back the original setting.

thanks

kc

[jonmulzer]

The only reason they say that in the manual, to my knowledge, is so that you can use it for a pivot point when making adjustment. It could have as easily have been any of the others as long as you keep one tight to make adjusting easier. Otherwise it would flop everywhere and it would be near impossible to get it correct.

[LCHIEN]

sorry, forgot which one was the non-adjusting screw.

[seagypsy]

Loring
Thanks for the quick answer to my question. I'll try running one of my scrap whitewood 2x4's through to check how it cuts, before I run the ggod cypress through.
Steve

[arcas]

The solution is to take off your SMT, look on the bottom where it rides on the rails, you'll find a strip of slick plastic that slides on top of the rail, you can remove this plastic (just glued onto the bottom of the SMT ) and it'll make the SMT almost completely flush. Probably won't affect the sliding friction any to worry about.

Interestingly, my BT3100-1's SMT does not have a strip of plastic attached to the rail. My SMT's metal rails simply ride in four 2-piece slides (the guys that hold the eccentric screws). The slides appear to be plastic so it might be possible to file down the slide bases to lower the SMT so that it matches the main table.

My SMT rides somewhere around 1/32" above the main table, maybe a hair more. I've thought about trying this modification but I'm not convinced it's worth the effort. Anybody have an easy mod to increase the SMT's travel by, say, 12 inches?

[LCHIEN]

Interestingly, my BT3100-1's SMT does not have a strip of plastic attached to the rail. My SMT's metal rails simply ride in four 2-piece slides (the guys that hold the eccentric screws). The slides appear to be plastic so it might be possible to file down the slide bases to lower the SMT so that it matches the main table.

My SMT rides somewhere around 1/32" above the main table, maybe a hair more. I've thought about trying this modification but I'm not convinced it's worth the effort. Anybody have an easy mod to increase the SMT's travel by, say, 12 inches?

the strip of plastic is attached to the bottom of the SMT clamps where they attach to the horizontal running rails (perpendicular to the blade), not the vertically running rails (parallel to the blade).

Another suggestion I have but never tried is to adjust the rail locking clamps, two on the front and two on the back of the main saw body. I'll bet when loosened the rail will have a litle play up and down, maybe you can get a vertical alignment you like better then tighten the clamps again.
Maybe this plus removing the strip of plastic will give perfect alignment to someone.