Just bought used saw and now I have a shim problem.... Arrrgggh

[RichW]

Well, first I really appreciate the kind comments and many helpful posts and articles here about the BT3K. This forum was a major factor in deciding to buy a BT3K. I have been watching Craigslist for some time looking for one.

I just got a BT3K built in 1998 from a gentleman who is selling off his woodworking equipment. He had the router table attachment, some kind of extra plastic clips and two roller supports to put behind the table when ripping long pieces. Not bad I thought for $150.

My previous post I got a list of things to look for when buying used and I diligently tried raising the blade and adjusting the angle and found no problems or uneveness in the action of the motion up and down. It ran fine and everything looked good to me. Admittedly, I don't know enough lingo to have run through everything in the FAQ. This is my first table saw.

I don't think the guy was trying to pull a fast one and give me a saw with a problem. He raised and lowered the blade when showing me how it all worked. It was when I started putting it all back together after transporting it home, and testing things out on my own that I had a problem. I raised the blade all the way up and then brought it all the way down. When I started raising it again it made a funny twang noise that stopped me cold. When I looked inside I couldn't see much and slowly started moving the handle in the other direction. It seemed to be moving smoothly again and I went back up and as I did I saw something inside by the front of the blade fall out and down below the blade. Despite my ignorance, I correctly guessed that this falling part was a shim. It is only slightly bent at the top.

Maybe someone can confirm or deny my suspicion that the original owner had not raised or lowered the blade enough to have a problem the last several times he used it? My putting it through its paces of full lowering and raising brought the problem to light. That's my theory anyway. I hate to think such seemingly nice guy completely shafted me and I didn't sniff out the deceit.

So, I didn't even get to use it and now I have the dreaded shim problem.

I won't say I am all thumbs or anything, but I don't have a lot of experience fixing equipment or things like that. For a guy like me, which do you think is probably the safer course of action? Should I do the shim repair job listed in the articles, or should I go all out and do the 3X00 to 3100 conversion job? Did I read in the conversion job there is drilling of metal involved? I am pretty leery of that, I have trouble drilling straight holes in wood and don't own a drill press.

I await your learned replies and I am not above accepting some pity. I can't find a smilie with tears so...

Rich

[LCHIEN]

my guess is by raising and lowering "all the way" you ran the shim over parts that had no more lubrication because it had not been used for a while and it stuck.

[Black wallnut]

IMHO since you claim to be challenged in the drilling part you would be best served by upgrading to the newer BT3100 style shims. The cost should be rather small and it is a permanent fix. You should be able to find step by step direction in the articles section. If you run into problems along the way, stop and come post a question. Once your shims are replaced you should be good to go. Be sure to clean and lube the elevation screw and bevel gears when you have the side panel(s) off!

[shoottx]

Welcome to the world of wood working. Just when you think you have the answer you get a different question. Setting up woodworking equipment, while not as exciting or sexy as making saw dust, is critical for the sucess of any wood working project. The shim falling out befor you had a chance to use the saw was probably a twofold blessing. If you had been using the saw nothing would have aligned and it might have created a problem resulting in kick back. The second advantage, as you do this repair you will become more familiar with the saw and the operational functions.

This site provides a wealth of information and knowledge about working on these saws. Go through the articles and understand what is suggested, gather the correct tools and go to work. Take your time. The opportunity to repair the saw willl become one of those skill buildinf experiences.

Good Luck!

[crokett]

If you decide to do the shim upgrade, I wrote this article. There isn't any drilling involved in the conversion. Read the article and if you have questions PM me.

[wardprobst]

Great opportunity to learn about the saw. Be sure to get a copy of LChien's FAQ.
DP

[cgallery]

If you decide to do the shim upgrade, I wrote this article. There isn't any drilling involved in the conversion. Read the article and if you have questions PM me.

I used the article to replace my shims. The article made it quite easy and staight-forward. I had read a lot of posts about the job that really made it seem awful, and without the article perhaps it would have been. But with the article it was almost pleasant, as I got to learn a lot about how my saw works.

[RichW]

Thanks for all of the replies. Yes, I am feeling much more optimistic about this now. I had confused the process of attaching new clips to hold the old style 3000 shims in place with the upgrade to the 3100 style shims. That's why I mentioned my concern about drilling holes. But that was my mistake, it is really not an issue with the 3100 conversion. It seems the only real downside to switching to the 3100 shims is the extra cost of the guide holder for the 3100.

I called Ryobi tech support today and confirmed I can do the upgrade on my saw. Subsequently, I ordered the parts on the M and D Mower site.

It set me back $63 with shipping, but most of that was really the belts which were just an optional good idea. Plus, I also didn't get the wrenches with my saw, so I ordered new ones for a little over $3 a piece.

I will have to wait to do the job when I get the parts and am not otherwise busy with childcare or taking my turn on 24 hour tech support for work.

Thanks for the offer of PMing you with questions, Crokett. I am hoping I won't have to, but I appreciate it anyway.

Rich

[RichW]

Well, I got all the parts and found some time right before I went on vacation to do the shim upgrade. When I ordered parts, I got the replacement wrenches. One part I had trouble with was getting the blade nut off. I was pulling gently and not getting anywhere so I applied a little more force. I felt something giving way and thought I was getting it loose. Nope. I was bending one of the new wrenches! D'OH!

Then I reviewed the user manual (should have done that first) and followed those instructions to remove the saw blade relatively easily. Pulling the guide holder off was quite a job. This wasn't listed in the instructions Crokett posted, but I lowered the blade assembly part way before removing the guide holder. It seemed to me I never would have been able to get enough of a grip on it to remove it if I left the blade assembly fully raised. Maybe, I misunderstood something and having the blade assemby raised would have worked too.

Anway, the rest went pretty smoothly. I did have to take it apart again when I forgot to lubricate one set of shims. But I hadn't really fully put it together yet, I just paused to review the instructions to make sure I hadn't missed anything. Which I, of course, had.

But all in all, it went really well. I didn't replace the belts, but now I know where they are and I have replacements if I need them. I did bend a wrench, but I still have the ability to use the two of them to get the blade off and also loosen the blade guard nuts.

I got a little worried when I first ran it after the repair and saw some sparks. But running it again and even making a test crosscut on a 2X4 scrap created no such sparks, so I will just have to keep an eye on it.

Many thanks to all the replies and encouragement in this thread. And special thanks to Crokett for posting those instructions.

Rich

Now I just have to decide on a first project to work on.

[shoottx]

Congratulations on the repair effort.

The repair effort provides you a better understanding of the BT3k operations. Something you would not have gotten by assembling, pluging it in and starting to cut. While not the ideal method of learning, it is effective.

As for a first project, look at the archives http://www.bt3central.com/index.php?page=articles and work on some of the add ons for the saw that make working with it more enjoyable. After a lot of years of ownership, I am finally adding alot of the stuff on this site. Wish I had doe it earlier.

[Uncle Cracker]

Welcome to the world of BT... It really is "the little saw that could", and was a decade ahead of its time. Take care of yours and you'll enjoy it for years. Ditto the suggestions to make up some of the dozens of jigs and fixtures found hereabouts in the forums and archives. It will be good practice, and you'll be left with things you can make use of over and over.