Can't operate the rip fence-shouldn't it go all the way to the blade?

[willcerv]

This is probably a stupid question to most of you, but I just bought my first table saw, and it's the Ryobi BT 3100.
I set it up in short order, but am having a problem with the
RIP FENCE. The rip fence is supposed to slide right to left over the accessory table, which also slides in both directions. Problem is, when I move the rip fence over the accessory table, it will clear it when the lever is "closed", but it gets as far as the stationary table the saw blade slot is in, and won't get past the right edge of that table, which is about one eight inch higher. I always assumed the rip fence should slide all the way to the blade, or as close as you'd need it, to slice a hair off a panel or piece of wood, but this set up leaves it inches away (the distance from the r. side of the blade to the end of the fixed table, at the point where the rip fence can't go any further.) Any suggestions? Is there another adjustment that needs to be made before the rip fence will go as far as you want it? Thanks.

[LCHIEN]

there shouldn't be 1/8" difference in heigh between the aux table and the main table. They should be pretty close to even. Probably some kind of rail issue.

Common problems are putting the rear rail on upside down or failing to have the rear lip of the aux table in the slot for it on the rear rail. Most likely the rear rail is on upside down causing the mismatch in height and the rip fence to ride too low.

P.S. Regardless of the aux table the rip fence should always have clearance over the main table. If it does not clear the main tble the the aux table has nothing to do with it.
Then there are only three pieces here in question: rip fence, rails and main table.
Assuming the rip fence is OK, then the height of the main table is a reference point (it can't be wrong) so that says that the rails must be the problem. About the only way you can mess them up short of physical damage is to put them on upside down, an occassional mistake I have heard of. Usually its the rear rail on upside down (because you can't get the rip fence to mmount it the front is upside down and it has an obvious scale on top). That would be confirmed if the OP had said that the front of the rip fence would have cleared but the back was too low... but he didn't mention that.

[steve-norrell]

The rip fence is supposed to slide right to left over the accessory table, which also slides in both directions. Problem is, when I move the rip fence over the accessory table, it will clear it when the lever is "closed", but it gets as far as the stationary table the saw blade slot is in, and won't get past the right edge of that table, which is about one eight inch higher. . . .

What is troublesome is that the fence won't slide over the main table of the saw. Loren's comment about a rail problem is right on. I would take a hard look on how the rails are mounted to the saw. They have to be carefully mounted in their brackets.

Also, if you have a sacraficial face on the rip fence it is possible that it is mounted too low, but that wouldn't explain why it clears the accessory table but not the main body of the saw. It comes back to a rail problem.

Good luck, Steve

[pelligrini]

Check to see if the groove on the front corner 'feet' of the accessory table is going down over the little lip on the front rail. The table can set high if it's not in the grooves.

*EDIT* Nevermind.. I read the question that the accessory table was high.

[willcerv]

Thanks, all. I think I adjusted it, but now I'm back where I started, with a sense of deja vu. What's happening now is that both are at the same height but the bottom of the rear lip of the rip fence is hitting the outside corner of the stationary table, (farthest away from operator)and THAT is what is preventing it from making the journey right to left toward the blade.It is literally a sixteenth of an inch, if that. It just won't get past it. Maybe an adjustment to the screw near the top of the black plastic rear lip piece? I am
going to try that.

[LCHIEN]

Thanks, all. I think I adjusted it, but now I'm back where I started, with a sense of deja vu. What's happening now is that both are at the same height but the bottom of the rear lip of the rip fence is hitting the outside corner of the stationary table, (farthest away from operator)and THAT is what is preventing it from making the journey right to left toward the blade.It is literally a sixteenth of an inch, if that. It just won't get past it. Maybe an adjustment to the screw near the top of the black plastic rear lip piece? I am
going to try that.

no don't mess with that screw. Won't fix your problem. you absolutely sure the rear rail is on right side up???

[Sawatzky]

Could it be that the rails are dirty, dented, or bent?

[willcerv]

no, the rear rail was not on upside down, so that wasn't it. Looks just like it does in the operator's manual. I have come to the conclusion , after removing rear rail, front rail, rip fence, and sliding miter table and accessory table, and starting from scratch as per step by step assembly in the manual,and putting them all in place again, in order, that what's throwing everything that extra little bit off is THE PLAY IN THE FRONT RAIL. Maybe before sliding it on ,the nuts or whatever controls this or controls those two clamps could or should be tightened? Even with the rip fence in place and tightened down there's way too much play in that rail/ doesn't seem or feel right, even though NOW the original problem of different levels of work surfaces seems to be solved. Might work the way it is now, but does not inspire confidence for safety.

[JR]

There should be no play in the front rail. When the fence is locked down you should expect a confidence-inspiring setup.

Yes, I'd check the two nut-like things on the front of the saw body. They should be snugly in place - you don't need to torque them down hard at all. Very close inpection of their orientation might reveal that the rail will sit higher in one orientation vs the other.

Also the levers on the fence could be at fault. When operated to the tight position there should be a smooth feelling as they snug into place. Make sure the little tab on the lever is not resting all the way onto the underside of the rail.

The rail/fence system is one of the highlights of this saw's design. You should expect it to operate easily and intuitively and you should expect to be perfectly satisfied.

JR

[poolhound]

no, the rear rail was not on upside down, so that wasn't it. Looks just like it does in the operator's manual. I have come to the conclusion , after removing rear rail, front rail, rip fence, and sliding miter table and accessory table, and starting from scratch as per step by step assembly in the manual,and putting them all in place again, in order, that what's throwing everything that extra little bit off is THE PLAY IN THE FRONT RAIL. Maybe before sliding it on ,the nuts or whatever controls this or controls those two clamps could or should be tightened? Even with the rip fence in place and tightened down there's way too much play in that rail/ doesn't seem or feel right, even though NOW the original problem of different levels of work surfaces seems to be solved. Might work the way it is now, but does not inspire confidence for safety.

I agree with JR, there should be zero play in either rail. Once the rails slide onto the square nuts the levers should only need approx 1/4 to 1/2 a turn t o lock the rails solid.

maybe a couple of pictures would help us diagnose the issue.

[willcerv]

FIXED IT! thanks to all....it was the square shiny steel things the front rail slides onto, they just needed to be turned so as to take up the play, which was up and down play , in the front rail. Now ALL parts work together and slide smoothly. |BUT---any suggestions for the right lube on all the sliding parts>?| Some kind of teflon, I heard?

[pelligrini]

The rails slide easier with just a little rub of wax paper.

[Salty]

Is it possible that Ryobi switched to a different kind of t-nut that was not exactly square?
I seem to recall that it did not matter if those were turned 90 degrees either way before sliding into the slot. In fact, I often did that to get the tension on the lever just right.

[willcerv]

Problem fixed! The up and down play in the front rail was solved by quarter turns to both small square steel plates that the grooves in the rail slide onto. Now it operates smoothly. What lubricant would you suggest for all the sliding/moving parts? And onemore thing....how and where should the front rail with all its numbers and fractions be set? Seems all you'd need for rip cuts is measuring the distance to the blade. What do the numbers indicate?

[JR]

You don't really have to worry about a "best" lube. These parts move very rarely. Some wax, or dry lube, gen. purpose lube will work fine.

The front rail will give very accurate measurement of distance from the fence to the blade. You'll need to make sure the reticule is mounted on the fence, indicating a position on the scale (the reticule can be mounted on the left or the right side of the fence. Its position is dependant ou your setup). Make a cut on some scrap wood, taking note of the position of the reticule - like, say 4". Measure the scrap. If it's 4" you're good to go. If it's not 4", loosen the front rail and move it until the 4" mark is 4" from the blade. Expect a little trial and error to get this set up.

JR