Advice for many rip cuts project

[LCHIEN]

my advice sould be to use a think kerf, 24-tooth ripping blade.
Also make sure the wiring has the best chance of getting full power - full voltage, 15A, to the saw which means 12 ga wiring, dedicated 15 or 20A circuit, no or very short length 12 ga extension cord.

Finally universal motors are not made for continuous duty - you should get an induction motor saw if that's your usage. I would say if you cut for 5 minutes then spent five minutes attaching the wood, then cut for another fve minutes you would stand a much better chance of yuor saw surviving. Watch it carefully for signs of distress. It's a hobbiests saw, not a production saw.

[Ed62]

You'll probably also want to be sure your blade remains clean. If it gets a buildup on it, that will cause friction, which will make it harder to get a clean cut, and make the saw labor more than necessary. Just keep an eye on it, and clean it when necessary.

Ed

[cabinetman]

I agree with pelligrini, dkerfoot and Loring on using a 24T blade. It would be worthwhile to regularly check the motor for how hot it's getting. As important as operating procedure, it would be smart to stop periodically just to rest.

Repetitive work monotony can lead to loss of concentration.
.

[jhelfer]

Well, since my saw was busted, I bought a $99 Ryobi TS and a Freud 24T thin-kerf blade.

I had to support the flimsy ripe fence with stop-block to keep it from moving around.

I could cut 2x4s just by myself, but used help with the 2x8s. Basically, one person pushing, one person accepting.

Each 2x8 got 13 or 14 3/8" slats. We let the saw motor cool down a bit after each board.