Switch failure - Craftsman 21829

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  • kevincan
    Established Member
    • Oct 2006
    • 181
    • Central Illinois
    • Craftsman 21829
    #1

    Switch failure - Craftsman 21829

    I have the Craftsman 21829 (BT3100 clone) and the power switch failed on it. I searched the forum and found out that was a common problem in the past. It happened the same way - stuck in the on position. I found Wayne Hill's info on one of the threads and will send him a email on it.

    My question for everyone is that I just recently (last month) set up my TS on a dedicated 20 amp outlet. I have run it before on a 15amp outlet. Can this be causing the problem - to much power causing the terminals to arc. I have had the TS for over 1 1/2 yrs without any problems.

    Thanks
    Kevin
    Tags: None
    • LCHIEN
      Super Moderator
      • Dec 2002
      • 21997
      • Katy, TX, USA.
      • BT3000 vintage 1999
      #2
      i think even tho Ryobi made it they're going to refer you to Craftsman/Sears for service and repair and warranty. I'm sure that's part of the discount Sears gets for buying these is that they provide warranty and service.
      Loring in Katy, TX USA
      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

        Comment

        • mpc
          Veteran Member
          • Feb 2005
          • 1008
          • Cypress, CA, USA.
          • BT3000 orig 13amp model
          #3
          No, the 20 amp outlet didn't overwhelm the switch.

          15amp or 20amp just refers to the maximum current that can be safely drawn from an outlet. The 120 volts is what "pushes" the power into the load (device); the resistance or reluctance of the device determines how many amps it draws for a given load.

          Take a reading light and plug it into that outlet. Is it any brighter? Nope, it's the same bulb plugged into another source of 120 volts so it's going to draw the same number of amps as it did inside the house in a regular 15amp line and will glow only as bright as it does on a 15amp circuit.

          Often contact type switches fail because:
          * the design of some switches cause the moving contact to "wipe" across the fixed contact every time the switch is cycled ON or OFF. This scrapes away any oxidization and carbon buildup (from arcing) that has built up for better contact. Eventually though the two parts can wear through each other. Or one will wear thin enough that it no longer can flow electrical current without heating up like a fuse... ergo it melts/welds to the other contact.

          * Some switches, as they close (turn ON) barely make contact for a moment... then the rest of the contacts touch and the switch is fully ON. During that brief interval though a lot of current can flow through a small contact area ==> heating it up. To physically see what I'm talking about, imagine your hands/palms as switch contacts. Clap them together one time - flat as you can. That's a good switch. Now bring them together more slowly, and angled so your wrists touch first and then the rest of the hand rolls together. While only the wrists touch, there is a lot less contact area for electrical current... maybe too little for the amount of current being turned on/off by the switch. Turning the switch ON or OFF slowly can magnify this too.

          * Switches controlling high voltages naturally arc for an instant when cycled. A too-small switch will fail earlier due to arcing wearing away at the contacts. Turning the switch ON or OFF slowly often makes this MUCH worse.

          * The switch is just plain undersized for the load. Switches on electric motors are really under the gun: electric motors draw a LOT more current when they first start than they do once running at full speed. The BT3x motor can drawn 15 (or 13 on the original saws) amps but the start-up load is probably closer 20+ amps for maybe a second. If the switch wasn't designed for that extra "inrush" current, it'll slowly accumulate damage. Circuit breakers on houses allow such momentary overloads - the wiring inside the walls won't heat up during that short overload so safety is preserved. Refrigerators, clothes washers/dryers, air conditioners, etc. all exhibit this characteristic: high initial inrush current, then a lower steady-state current.

          mpc

            Comment

            • kevincan
              Established Member
              • Oct 2006
              • 181
              • Central Illinois
              • Craftsman 21829
              #4
              Loring - Wayne Hill responded to my email this morning - they are sending out a replacement switch. I was not sure if they would do it because it is a Sears model. Talk about great customer service!

              MPC - Thanks for the info on the electrical side of things. I did not think that it would make a difference - but it was right after I set up a dedicated outlet on a new 20 amp circuit that the switch failed.

              Kevin

                Comment

                • kevincan
                  Established Member
                  • Oct 2006
                  • 181
                  • Central Illinois
                  • Craftsman 21829
                  #5
                  I want to post a follow up on my switch failure. Wayne Hill sent a new switch out to me via Fed Ex. I changed it out and have my saw up and running. I guess I should say turned off since the switch was stuck in the on position.

                  Thank you to everyone in this forum for a great resource of information and thanks to TTI for great customer service.

                  Kevin

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