Dust sealing a BT3

[poolhound]

I just pulled the trigger on a new DC. I ordered the Delta 50-760 ($329 from Amazon).

So I can get the best out of it and really reduce the dust I want to seal up my BT3 cabinet as much as possible. How have some of you done this? I guess I need to cover the bottom but add a dust port down there. I also have a shark guard so need to somehow connect that, the regular dust port and whatever I do to enclose the base together.

Whats the best way anybody else whose doing this has found?

[LCHIEN]

you really don't want to seal it. That will restrict the max air flow you can achieve. You want the thing to be open enough so that the air can come in anywhere dust normally escapes and carry the dust out thru the hoses. Here's how i did mine:

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...highlight=dust

[JR]

Here's mine: http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...highlight=dust

The stuff shown in the above link is operated via one blast gate. I also have 2-1/2" hose coming from the DC mail line to my Shark Guard, operated by a second blast gate. I move the hose as necessary between the SG and my router fence.

HTH,
JR

[poolhound]

Thanks Loring & JR,

DC is due to arrive Wednesday so I guess I have some fun plumbing ahead of me. Trying to figure out how best to connect in my SG is a bit of a challenge. I have looked at the pics on Lee's site and there are some good examples there. As my shop is not a fixed setup and I have two main positions for my saw (depending on the lengths I am ripping) I think I will go for a simple portable setup first and then see if I can figure out how to create a more permanent arrangement.

JR - what hookup did you use for your SG? The port is 2" and so far I havent found a hose or connector to fit. I may end up wrapping tape around it to give a snug fit on a standard 21/2" hose.

[JimD]

I have a "Jim Frye articulating cover" on the back of my BT3100 to block off that opening. If you follow the link to the old articles you can see the design. My BT3100 is on a tilt up base with a 2 1/2 dust port under it. I have the vents on the left side of the saw blocked off. I allow air to enter the front and around the blade (to reduce dust on the top) and exhaust through the motor and into the DC. I suck out the back dust port and the one under the saw with a 1hp DC (Delta) through a 4 inch hose (y'd into the two smaller openings). I still get some dust on top, the shark guard should help a lot with dust on the top. I get very little dust under the saw. I take about a tea cup full when I lube the height adjustment mechanism several times a year.

Jim

[poolhound]

New DC arrived this afternoon. All assembled and working great. Now for some plumbing fun. I think a belly pan is a first order priority. That should be easy with a standard 4" wye. I still cant think of the best way to connect in the SG and keep the hose out of the way. I am not ready to start ruuning pipe across the ceiling so need to figure out the best way to attach some form of bracket to the BT so I can still run the 2" pipe into the SG and keep it clear of the cut.

[Stytooner]

Here is how I did my cabinet.
http://www.leestyron.com/btcab.php

Here are a few different ways to tackle the hose mounting on the SG.
http://www.leestyron.com/sharkdc.php

[poolhound]

Here is how I did my cabinet.
http://www.leestyron.com/btcab.php

Here are a few different ways to tackle the hose mounting on the SG.
http://www.leestyron.com/sharkdc.php

Thanks Lee, I have been studying those SG setups from your site to see which one might work best for me.

Another question for all. As I will end up with 3 DC connections to the saw, Std dust port, belly pan, and SG should I try and get the size to 4" as soon as possible or do you think its OK to bring these 3 outputs together with only 2 1/2" hose and then convert to 4"?

It would seem that doing the short runs and tight bends (especially from under the saw) with 21/2" would be easier but I dont wont to restrict the DC airflow more than necessary.

[JimD]

I do not think it will be bad to have three 2 1/2 hoses coming of the one 4 inch going to the three pickup points. I run 4 inch to the dust port where it reduces (using a home-made wooden adapter) and I run a short piece of 4 inch flex off a 4 inch wye to the opening under the saw (kind of like a belly pan but closer to the back side of the saw). Both get choked down to 2 1/2 before they admit any air. I doubt you will ever collect debris quickly enough to plug the 2 1/2 flex pipe. If you did, I think it would be the regular dust port. Stuff flys out of there pretty good when you are cutting.

Jim

[Wood_workur]

as Loring said, the thing about sealing up a cabinet is that it will restrict air flow by the blade, and make the problem worse. I'd leave the dc system on it as it is, or get a shark guard.

[poolhound]

I made a belly pan this weekend. I saw an article a few weeks back that talked about rounding the outlets to form a "bell" shape. In tests this has been shown to increase the CFM and reduce static pressure.