Rip Fence - not maintaining alignment

[Chipper]

The rip fence on my BT3100-1 will not maintain alignment. Each time I reset the fence to a new dimension I find the alignment off (yes, I do check the same blade tooth) by as much as 1/16 in. or more. Is there a common weakness in the system that needs extra attention?

Did anyone ever come up with an after market fence that is more substantial/reliable?

I am starting to do more and more woodworking and I love the saw otherwise, but this is one thing is driving me nuts!

[LCHIEN]

the fence relies on three points of clamping, the first two in the T-base at the front as you begin to lower the handle and the last at the rear to clamp the back to the rear rail and you push the handle all the way down.
you should take off your fence and familiarize yourself with how these work.


The two points on the front rail establish a fixed angle to the front rail, the actual angle is determined by the two screws on top of the fence.
If the fence is at the same angle every time but not parallel to the blade then the top two screws ned to be loosened and the fence aligned.
If the fence is not landing in the same angle everytime (e.g. approx 90 deg to the rail and exactly parallel to the blade) then liekly the two clamping pads on the T base are not working right.

[JimD]

I agree with what Loring said but I would add that it is quite important that the front clamp before the back of the rip fence. In other words, when you push down on the locking handle, the casting that the handle is in should move a little away from the rail and square up. After that occurs, the hook on the back side of the rip fence should lock up on the rear rail. If the hook pulls up first, you need to turn the screw on the back of the rip fence so it pulls up later in the travel of the front locking handle.

I am saying all of this because the rear locking up first seems to me to be a likely cause of what you describe. I had similar problems at first but once I got it right, I have not had to readjust at all.

Jim

[leehljp]

Another way of saying what Jim and Loren said is that the BT3 fence has a two step locking system. The first is the front. As you lower the handle a little bit, it aligns the front, which swings the long part of the fence inward by 1/32 to 1/16.

Once this is done, the rear locks as the handle is pushed further down.

Some people confuse this swinging as the handle is pushed down - as a defect, but it is a part of bringing everything into alignment and locking it into alignment. The key is the alignment setting with the two screws on top near the front. Once set, it locks in alignment.

There was one aftermarket fence made for the BT3000 once but it apparently didn't sell well because the BT3x fence has always been known as one of the best in holding its position, and one of the BTs best features.

[RayintheUK]

Good advice has been given here. One other possibility is that the rear clamper is not set correctly into the back rail. Look at the following diagram:



"A" shows how to enter the clamper into the recess in the rear rail. To do this effectively, you need the clamper slacked right off and the fence elevated at an angle of 20 - 40 degrees.

"B" shows how the clamper is designed to work, once the fence has been aligned by the first part of the downwards handle action. The clamper adjustment screw allows you to set the final downward position of the handle when the clamper is engaged and locked - I've got mine set a few degrees below horizontal. A bit of trial and error and you'll see how that works.

"C" is the position that can occur if the clamper is not correctly engaged. You will get similar symptoms to those you describe.

Finally, do not wax the front rail! If you have done, clean it off with a suitable solvent. HTH

Ray.

[LCHIEN]

Good advice has been given here. One other possibility is that the rear clamper is not set correctly into the back rail. Look at the following diagram:

[ATTACH]8623[/ATTACH]

"A" shows how to enter the clamper into the recess in the rear rail. To do this effectively, you need the clamper slacked right off and the fence elevated at an angle of 20 - 40 degrees.

"B" shows how the clamper is designed to work, once the fence has been aligned by the first part of the downwards handle action. The clamper adjustment screw allows you to set the final downward position of the handle when the clamper is engaged and locked - I've got mine set a few degrees below horizontal. A bit of trial and error and you'll see how that works.

"C" is the position that can occur if the clamper is not correctly engaged. You will get similar symptoms to those you describe.

Finally, do not wax the front rail! If you have done, clean it off with a suitable solvent. HTH

Ray.

while the clamper can be a problem in holding the fence aligned when in use, the clamper (stage 2 locking) seldom causes misalignment, that is done by stage (1) where the two pads in the "T" riding on the front fence pull the fence into alignment when the handle is lowered partway down. The OP needs to check that part is happeneing.