Extreme Bt3 Table Mod Question

[final_t]

This weekend got me really frustrated with the depth of the Bt3's top. 22" front to back, and only about 7.5" from front to blade caused me no end of problems. So much so that I actually started looking into replacing the whole thing, which is $$$ I don't wanna spend.
So now I'm thinking of figuring out some way to properly and safely modify the saw or add to it so that it has the industry standard 27" table area? I've thought about adding a 5" wide thick strip up front, which would bring the depth cut to about 12.5" (less than the usual 15"), but I can't figure out how to properly anchor & stablize it.
Obviously this would require replacing the rails and the fence, but first things first.
Any suggestions, ideas, thoughts, puzzled looks?

[Lonnie in Orlando]

This is not my idea. I'm sure the "inventor" will post more info ...

> Make a long face for your rip fence.
> Attach a plate to the bottom of the front edge of the rip fence. The top of the plate will be level with the saw table and will extend the support in front of the saw table.

No - I haven't done this. But I agree that the short table is a disadvantage.

- Lonnie

[DonHo]

You might check out this store on ebay to see if you can find the right piece then attach it using the rail attachment T nuts. I suspose this would require a new rip fence.

http://stores.ebay.com/8020-Inc-Gara...Q3amesstQQtZkm

Good luck,

DonHo

[LCHIEN]

This is not my idea. I'm sure the "inventor" will post more info ...

> Make a long face for your rip fence.
> Attach a plate to the bottom of the front edge of the rip fence. The top of the plate will be level with the saw table and will extend the support in front of the saw table.

No - I haven't done this. But I agree that the short table is a disadvantage.

- Lonnie

That sounds like a good idea, and won't require extreme mods.

[Sawatzky]

I think the extended rip fence is a good idea, but beyond that I would not mess with it too much. Trying to modify the table top could be dangerous as that was never meant to be done with this saw. It will also cost money if done properly - money that could be used for a bigger saw. I do wish I had a larger top too, but that is just one limitation of the BT. I added an additional face to my fence that makes my fence longer than the original. This has really helped in lining up longer pieces. If you have not done that, it is simple, cheap, and effective. Another helpful thing for longer pieces is roller stands. I cut full sheets of plywood on my BT using roller stands with good results,and do the same with long pices (12 feet) of hardwood and get good results.

[Black wallnut]

I've not had problems with the depth of my saw; just something I have gotten used to over the years. I have a shop made long fence attachment and a roller stand for when I need to rip longer stock. This actually has been a recent addition and has really helped.

[final_t]

I actually have the roller stands and etc stuff for the saw for ripping and etc, so that's all cool.
The cut that I was attempting to do was with a square a little over 12" in size that I needed to use the V27 miter gauge with. It turned out to be far too difficult and downright dangerous, so I instead resorted to building a special guide to hold the thing and go at it with a router bit (which caused it's own problems, such as chipout and burning). So the extended fence probably won't do it for my uses.
I agree with the "more money than it's worth" sentiment, it's just frustrating to run wham up against a major limitation with the saw like this, esp. considering I've built some major impressive works with it.

[9johnny5]

A sled could be another alternative...

to replacing your saw. If increasing the surface support area is the goal, then a home-constructed flat-panel sled, using the miter slots for guidance, fits the bill cheaply. It adds the benefit of continued true square (once the miter slots are aligned to the blade), as well as large of a surface as you want to make it.

Downside is it adds another item to occupy your hands and attention while cutting, but, if built right, these are minimized with a proper design and execution.

Norm just went over how ot build one on the New Yankee Workshop, and David Marks uses one on just about every episode of Wood Works.

Johnny C.

[lrogers]

Another "low tech" way to approach this is to just make yourself a rolling table the same height as the Bt's table. When you have sheet goods to cut, just roll it in front of the saw. When not needed for cutting, you have another workbench/assembly table.
Combined with the extended fence attached this would your life easier.

[JimD]

I kind of do what Larry suggested. My router table's normal position in the shop is on the front side of the BT3100. When I need infeed support, I remove the fence and it is my infeed table. It is about 1/4 inch shorter and works fine for this purpose.

It sounds like you piece was small, however. I am working on a mod to put a couple miter gauge slots on the BT3100, aligned to be parallel to the blade, so I can use a sled. I have had difficulty getting accurate cuts with the SMT. I am thinking a sled will be better, we will see. A t-slot miter gauge might have helped for what I think you are describing. You can get an insert to make one but I did not - about $25 for 2 foot (Pricecutters) versus about $9 for a regular one (from Lee Valley).

If you really want to expand the surface, you could mount the rails to the cabinet the necessary inches away from the BT3100 and then build an accessory table to go between the rails and the BT3100. My extension rails fasten to the cabinet by clamping them using the bottom slot of the rail. You could do the same thing with the main rail but it would be a bit of work.

Jim

[final_t]

Hmm, the front-table addon idea is not a bad one. This would give me what I need, when I need it - say about 6-8 additional inches. Sort of like a reverse outfeed.

One issue that I can come up with right off the bat is the location of the power switch, since with this ledge thing it would be really far away...

[LinuxRandal]

Niki, HERE is also a member of Sawmill Creek. He made a thin strip post, which I think may have also been posted here at one point (don't remember).

It appears that he used a melamine shelf board as the infeed table for this jig, so it doesn't block the power switch. I have pm'd him requesting more pictures of it. Hopefully at his conveinence, he will give us more idea's, so we don't overengineer.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=73856

[final_t]

Niki, HERE is also a member of Sawmill Creek. He made a thin strip post, which I think may have also been posted here at one point (don't remember).

Yes it was, and it was AWESOME.

It appears that he used a melamine shelf board as the infeed table for this jig, so it doesn't block the power switch.

Nice catch, I didn't notice that before. That would work for his setup, because of the location of his power switch and the location of the cutoff - he'd be standing to the left at all times, with the switch right there.

[greencat]

What do you think about drilling into the front of the table top to support the infeed table? I was thinking about 2 keyhole slots.