Mounting Router to RT

[WestofLongBeach]

OK, folks, I have the router table mounted and own an RE 1802 router. The one that came with three bases and a sack. Well-constructed but useless sack, but oh, well. Some day I may need to go rout somewhere else. Maybe your house?

The mounting directions that came with the BT3100 accessory set, don't specifically say that that router is compatible with the RT. They mention other, similar numbers, but not 1802.

Also, I forgetfully mounted it without first removing the black sub-base (it's a three-hole mount). Thinking better of that, I'm about to go back and remove the sub-base just to be cautious. That's when I noticed that the RT was for other routers, it seems.

So am I completely wrong to use this router with the RT?

And do you really need to remove the sub-base? It's fairly thin on that model, about an eighth of an inch.

Thanks a lot.

Don.

[Brian G]

Hi Don,

I use my RE 1082 in the RT. I removed the subbase only because I sometimes use an aftermarket subbase for template bushings. I can't remember for sure, but I think there's a better mounting hole option if you remove the black subbase. My memory thinks that one orientation makes changing bits easier than the other.

I prefer using the plunge base in the BT3100 RT. Others have had a bear of a time adjusting the height on the fixed bases. I haven't, but I like the fine adjustment on the plunge base.

I kind of like the bag, except for the internal snaps.

[WestofLongBeach]

Hi Brian,

Hi Don,

I use my RE 1082 in the RT. I removed the subbase only because I sometimes use an aftermarket subbase for template bushings. I can't remember for sure, but I think there's a better mounting hole option if you remove the black subbase. My memory thinks that one orientation makes changing bits easier than the other.

Seems the router base orients the same way with or without the sub-base removed. I wonder what it's for? Removal, I mean. To give the bit added "reach" vertically? Doubtful, since you can just mount a bit a little higher in the chuck.

I prefer using the plunge base in the BT3100 RT. Others have had a bear of a time adjusting the height on the fixed bases.

As do I. And I row 6-10Km a week, so I'm not weak. The plunge base is the one I use, too. Really simplifies the task of elevating the router.

But when I grow up, I will definitely build a purpose-built router table into which I will build an elevating mechanism of some sort. And a removable mounting plate. Can't sort out why they didn't do that with this one.

In fairness, it is pretty easy to dismount the entire tabletop, maybe that's what they had in mind?

I haven't, but I like the fine adjustment on the plunge base.

I kind of like the bag, except for the internal snaps.

All day long, I like and admire the bag. I just have no use for it. And the internal snaps are odd.

[JR]

I wonder what it's for? Removal, I mean. To give the bit added "reach" vertically?

It is a general truism that it is good to mount the bit as close to the chuck as possible. They tend flex as they are mounted farther out on the neck.

JR

[Black wallnut]

OK, folks, I have the router table mounted and own an RE 1802 router. The one that came with three bases and a sack. Well-constructed but useless sack, but oh, well. Some day I may need to go rout somewhere else. Maybe your house?

The mounting directions that came with the BT3100 accessory set, don't specifically say that that router is compatible with the RT. They mention other, similar numbers, but not 1802.

I think your router is a newer model that may not have been available when the BT3100 first came out. Even then it should fit.

Also, I forgetfully mounted it without first removing the black sub-base (it's a three-hole mount). Thinking better of that, I'm about to go back and remove the sub-base just to be cautious. That's when I noticed that the RT was for other routers, it seems.

You should always remove the sub-base when mounting a router in a table. Especially if you are using 1/4" shanked bits, many of which are on the short side to begin with. Mount the bit as deep as possible but not bottomed out in the collet for several reasons. First it ensures that your collet has a good contact on the shank. Second with less shank exposed the bit is stiffer and stronger. If your router has any runout the closer the bit is to the motor the less you will notice it.

So am I completely wrong to use this router with the RT?

IMHO no, that said there may be better suited routers. The best router to mount in your saw is one you already own. Given the design limitations of the accessory table (what you are calling the router table) it makes sense to use a lower powered router. The use of large panel raising bits and larger profiling bits even though not impossible are not advised.


Many more questions and answers to router use in the BT3 line of saws are detailed in Loring's excellent FAQ, email or PM him for a copy.