polishing the aluminium top

[siliconbauhaus]

I'd like to clean up the tops of my bt3. They have a few areas where it looks like it's oxidised a bit and it doesn't come off with mineral spirits or lacquer thinner.

Has anyone here tried polishing the top plates? I was thinking about using a very fine synthetic pad (the 3m type) on a 1/4 sheet sander or would I be better off using a automotive abrasive. I just want to take off the lightest amount possible as I don't want to create any dips on the table.

[iceman61]

Try a product called Mother's Polish. Make sure you get the one specifically for aluminum. It will pull all the oxidization out of the aluminum & give you a finish that will make your jaw drop. You can find it at WalMart in the automotive section or in the automotive parts stores. I use it for years on aluminum rims & my aluminum tool boxes. It's great stuff.

[Uncle Cracker]

Mother's does a good job. A tube of Flitz (get it at HD) will also give very good results. You should not need an abrasive pad with either, just a soft cloth.

[siliconbauhaus]

Thanks for the tips.....seems easier than I originally thought.

[LinuxRandal]

Try a product called Mother's Polish. Make sure you get the one specifically for aluminum. It will pull all the oxidization out of the aluminum & give you a finish that will make your jaw drop. You can find it at WalMart in the automotive section or in the automotive parts stores. I use it for years on aluminum rims & my aluminum tool boxes. It's great stuff.

Does this stuff contain silicone?

[LCHIEN]

if you have a BT3000 its an anodized finish; if you have A BT3100 then it's a powder-coated finish.

In either case, if you have worn or abraded through these relatively thin layers then no amount of polishing is going to bring them back.

Metal polish will probably bring a nice shine to the anodized surface, if not worn through. Not sure what the best product is for the power coated.

A lot depends on how its damaged, whether its surface dirt or a surface scratches, like patina on a high spot, or wear through.

Can't tell from your description. a carefully controlled Oxidization is what anodizing is, if its powder coated, then it shouldn't be oxidized.
If you've worn into or scratched down to the bare aluminum then you may have oxidation - oxidation of alum is gray or white stuff, usually with a raised rough texture.
If its really oxidation of the alum. then your best bet is to polish it down flat and smooth and keep a coating of wax on it to prevent more oxidation.

[siliconbauhaus]

It's a bt3 not a bt3100. I have a few areas where its gone a dull grey while the rest is still quite bright. I'm just being fussy I guess but I'd like to have the top all nice and neat.

I looked up the MSDS for mcguires (sp) aluminium polish and the ingredients are
sodium petroleum sulfonate
nonyphenol glycol ether
hydroxy acetic acid
oxalic acid
glycol ether
conditioners
water

Doesn't say anything about silicone but then conditioners is a broad description.

Mothers just lists
kerosene
sodium hydroxide

[Tarhead]

I have used the Mother's Mag/Al polish on my cast iron tops and it works great on them too. The chemist I spoke with at Mother's said absolutely no silicone is in this and their other metal polishes.

[movnup]

I bought a can of Mothers and it got the top clean but not shined out like I wanted. As I picked it up at an auto parts place I went back and got 800 and 1000 grit emery paper and wet sanded it out. Looks like brand new and Johnson paste wax buffed in keeps in looking that way for two or three months dependant on saw use. This was the same thing we did to racing go cart and motocross cycle frames b/4 priming & painting (this was a hobby of mine for a long time).

[LCHIEN]

It's a bt3 not a bt3100. ...

We have generally used the term "BT3" or BT3x" to indicate any member of the generic family of BT3000/BT3100/Sears 22811/21829
and the terms "BT3K" or "BT3000" and "BT3100" to indicate the specific machine versions.
Sorry for the confusion.