Dual Slot Miter & T-track tables

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  • pelligrini
    Veteran Member
    • Apr 2007
    • 4217
    • Fort Worth, TX
    • Craftsman 21829

    Dual Slot Miter & T-track tables

    This is my recent version of a dual slot miter table for my Sears 21829. I used some aluminum bar and angle stock I had lying around along with some incra Miter track and T-track. I also used a couple pieces of ½ and ¼” MDF scraps. I would have preferred to use hardwood, but I do not have a thickness planer. (My skills with a hand plane need much work too.)

    I found that stacking the two thicknesses of MDF there was about 1/16” difference. I made up for that with the 1/16” aluminum stock. I drilled new bolt holes in the four places where the tracks bolt to the saw frame. I did also have to use some 1/32 shims once I tightened up on the fasteners. These were cut out of some aluminum sheet material.

    The table casting on the right side steps back and is slightly tapered. I cut the MDF to match.

    I believe it was a piece of 1/16 inch thick 3/4x3/4 angle next to the table top for the left side slots, and a couple pieces of 1/16 inch thick ½x3/4 inch angles on the bottom..

    So far, the only thing I need to revise is to block the gap between the track-to-frame connection on the left side rear. If I tighten the fastener too much it will slightly warp the track and cause a tight clearance slider to bind.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by pelligrini; 04-14-2008, 02:40 PM. Reason: Missing Attachments
    Erik
  • LCHIEN
    Internet Fact Checker
    • Dec 2002
    • 20914
    • Katy, TX, USA.
    • BT3000 vintage 1999

    #2
    how do you adjust the slot parallel to the blade which is obviously quite important?
    Is the hole in the metal table support slightly oversize or slotted and you adjust the screw from below?
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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    • pelligrini
      Veteran Member
      • Apr 2007
      • 4217
      • Fort Worth, TX
      • Craftsman 21829

      #3
      Luckily, my blade is extremely parallel with the top. When I clamped the slots into place and drilled the fastener holes into the saw they ended up where I wanted them too. I figured if (or when) I needed to do some tuning I will elongate one of the fastener holes into a slot for adjusting.
      Erik

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      • steve-norrell
        Veteran Member
        • Apr 2006
        • 1001
        • The Great Land - Alaska
        • BT3100-1

        #4
        I would not worry too much about the gap between the track and the frame -- dust will get in there anyway and that's what ShopVacs were made for.

        Of greater concern is Loring's comment about alignment of the slots to the blade. As he said, its crucial.

        The three photos show how I aligned a miter table I built for the BT3100. If you haven't already solved the alignment issue, I hope the photos are helpful

        Regards, Steve

        Comment

        • pelligrini
          Veteran Member
          • Apr 2007
          • 4217
          • Fort Worth, TX
          • Craftsman 21829

          #5
          Another thought I had instead of the elongated holes, which I'm really not keen on, is to just shim the slot away from the table casting at whichever end that needs it.
          Erik

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          • cgallery
            Veteran Member
            • Sep 2004
            • 4503
            • Milwaukee, WI
            • BT3K

            #6
            Love it. The aluminum angle should make the entire assembly quite ridgid. Fantastic work.

            Comment

            • pelligrini
              Veteran Member
              • Apr 2007
              • 4217
              • Fort Worth, TX
              • Craftsman 21829

              #7
              Thanks. Once the assembly was all screwed together it was pretty rigid. I intended to glue the MDF, but I didn't really want to wait on clamp-up time. I put the tracks on there as I needed to use my tenon jig. I've found the accessory table to be difficult to use with the tenon jig I have.

              One thing I didn't mention earlier was the fasteners for the left side t-track. I ended up countersinking some 1/2" #8 machine screws into the aluminum angle on the bottom. The pre-drilled holes in the track were about a #10 size, but the nut for the #8s fit perfectly into the recess in the track. I would have had to do some machining to the track to get the #10 nuts to seat properly. I don't think screws would have held in the 1/4" MDF very long, besides, I didn't have any screws short enough either. The 1/2" length machine screws were just right. They don't stick up any farther than the panhead screws that are provided with the track.

              I can't remember the other machine screw sizes offhand. The left rear screw was pretty long. I ended up cutting down a 3" long one I already had.
              Erik

              Comment

              • pelligrini
                Veteran Member
                • Apr 2007
                • 4217
                • Fort Worth, TX
                • Craftsman 21829

                #8
                Originally posted by steve-norrell
                I would not worry too much about the gap between the track and the frame -- dust will get in there anyway and that's what ShopVacs were made for.
                Closing the gap wasn't so much about the dust, but more of a function in my alignment. I did a bunch of measurements from the blade to edge with my dial calipers and the blade was very much in line with the sides.

                That's a pretty slick rule you have there Steve. I'm thinking I might have to invest in one of those too.
                Erik

                Comment

                • WoodTherapist
                  Forum Newbie
                  • Feb 2006
                  • 81
                  • .

                  #9
                  Hello Pelligrini. I am thinking of installing a miter track and came across this old thread. I like your design and am wondering how it is working for you, after using it for a while now. Would you change anything?

                  Comment

                  • pelligrini
                    Veteran Member
                    • Apr 2007
                    • 4217
                    • Fort Worth, TX
                    • Craftsman 21829

                    #10
                    They're still on there and working well. I use the t-tracks for featherboards and hold downs more than the miter slots. I still haven't gotten around to building my sleds I intended.

                    There isn't much I would change. I would probably do it all out of hardwood now, as I have a thickness planer and better sources of wood.
                    Erik

                    Comment

                    • WoodTherapist
                      Forum Newbie
                      • Feb 2006
                      • 81
                      • .

                      #11
                      Thanks for the feedback. I may give it a shot. I like the idea of miter slots on both sides while still being able to use the sliding table.

                      Comment

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