Sizes of nuts, grooves, tracks, etc.

[gwyneth]

Somewhere in the forum I thought I'd seen a list of the grooves, slots, etc. on the various BT aluminum (rails, fence, etc.)

I know the wide ones (top of miter table fence, top of rip fence) take the square ones that come with assorted accesories).

Right now I'm wondering about the little grove on the blade side of the fence, and my search efforts haven't come up with it--I'm about to look in the FAQ.

Does anybody know about that?

Thanks.

[LCHIEN]

Not in the FAQ, but this chart should tell you what you want to Know.
http://t-nuts.com/prod.shtml

[gwyneth]

Thank you, Loring. While I was waiting I tried another search on 'nut' and found some answers, but that list is better.

[JR]

Gwyneth, Loring has sent you the right place. As you see there are several sizes required, and some of them may be challenge to source locally.

Getting a combo pack from T-nuts.com can enable lots of flexibility for your saw.

JR

[eezlock]

nuts, grooves, etc.

Gwyneth, check out the archives pages about Jeff's T-Nuts. He had a list of the sizes of the t-nuts needed for the rip fence, crosscut miter gauge, rails and seems as if there was something else too...but I can't remember. Hope this helps...eezlock

[gwyneth]

eezlock--that may be a duplicate of the link Loring suggested.

Thanks, everybody!

[dkerfoot]

Don't forget to get your 10% discount:

http://www.t-nuts.com/bt3c/

[gwyneth]

Thanks all. I'm trying to attach an HTC fence face--the story of which, and a picture, is in the UHMW purchase thread I started in the tool talk category--to the blade side of the BT fence.

The HTC fence face has little keyhole insets so the ideal solution would be a two-headed bolt. Since that sounds too eccentric for anybody to sell, getting one of the square T-nuts Jeff sells is probably the answer. I can almost get it to work with regular nuts in the fence and the head of an attched machine screw in the fence face keyhole inset. But as much of a pain as keyhole slots are with something static on one side, like my under-counter light fixture, they're a true challenge when the other side is a slot.

Loring's solution for his consumable fence--to leave the bolts and nuts on it, and slide into the BT fence--is what I'm after.

[reddog552]

fence mounting

I have used a 10/24 panhead screw/w a square head nut to attach consumable fences. the square nuts are app. .470with and slide in and out easly.

[fredg50]

A metric bolt with a 10 mm head size will also fit in the small fence track

[gwyneth]

A metric bolt with a 10 mm head size will also fit in the small fence track

Thanks!

The problem here is that I think I have to use a nut in the fence track so the head of the bolt can fit into the keyhole hardware on the fence face.

[fredg50]

If you have a nut in the fence track you have to be able to tighten the screw or bolt that's in the key slot and that would be from the blade side of the fence. I have secured a auxilliary fence to the rip fence by using a 10/24 or 10/32 machine screw. I drilled a through hole for the screw and counter sunk it enough to recess the screw head. Just loosen the screw and the aux. fence slides on and of the T slot.

[gwyneth]

I drilled a through hole for the screw and counter sunk it enough to recess the screw head. Just loosen the screw and the aux. fence slides on and of the T slot.

That would be the way I'd choose to do it, and that's the way my consumable MDF fence does it.

However, the UHMW fence face came with keyhole hardware and it looks as if the choice is to keep some bolts in it with nuts attached and sliding the nuts into the groove or tighten up some bolts to nuts in the groove and wave the UHMW fence around trying to get the keyholes to engage the bolts.