Question about the rip fence

[djkert]

Every time I rip a long board on my craftsman clone I end up with about a 1/16 or more gap between the wood and the rip fence at the outfeed side of the blade. Why would this be? The wood is flush with the fence as it goes in, and the fence measure an even distance from the blade at both sides, so I assume it is parallel with the blade. This only thing I can think of is the riving knife is pulling the wood away from the blade. i can never seem to get the thing to stay directly behind the blade. It is always to the left and I have to give it a nudge so I can get the wood through.

-Dennis

[Dutchman46]

Rip Fence

The riving knive may be the awnser. After i removed, and replaced the blade guard on the BT3000, mine did the same thing. Run a piece of woodalong the fence just up to the knive and see if it is centered. You may need to add, or remove a shim between the knife mount area, and the knife. Hope this helps

[djkert]

Run a piece of woodalong the fence just up to the knive and see if it is centered. You may need to add, or remove a shim between the knife mount area, and the knife. Hope this helps

So the problem is, the wood will hit the blade guard on the left side of the blade. However, I have no shims on the right side of the knife. I'm not sure how to move the blade to the right any more.

[Dutchman46]

Remove the throat plate from your machine, and you will see two bolts that hold on the riving knive and the guard too the saw. If the two bolts are loosened a bit, you will find several shims attached to the bolts. some are on the bolt head side of the knive, the others are installed between the knives, and the saw unit. What you need to do is change the shims so there are more, or less in -between the mounting holes of the bolt and the riving knive. That will move the knives so the blade and the knive mount are in perfect alignment. If you check the forun, you will find articles that will help you with adjustments and repairs under b3000 related articles.

[gwyneth]

So the problem is, the wood will hit the blade guard on the left side of the blade. However, I have no shims on the right side of the knife. I'm not sure how to move the blade to the right any more.

Don't forget you can also turn them around, which gives you more options for shifting and grouping them.

If I'm understanding this correctly, the problem may be precisely that you don't have any of them on the right side of the knife.

[Black wallnut]

So the problem is, the wood will hit the blade guard on the left side of the blade. However, I have no shims on the right side of the knife. I'm not sure how to move the blade to the right any more.

You may have to bend it!

[LCHIEN]

you may need properly configured featherboards to hold the workpiece tight against the fence... Are you using FB?

[JR]

You may have to bend it!

Yep, time for a bigger hammer!

JR

[ragswl4]

Every time I rip a long board on my craftsman clone I end up with about a 1/16 or more gap between the wood and the rip fence at the outfeed side of the blade. Why would this be? The wood is flush with the fence as it goes in, and the fence measure an even distance from the blade at both sides, so I assume it is parallel with the blade. This only thing I can think of is the riving knife is pulling the wood away from the blade. i can never seem to get the thing to stay directly behind the blade. It is always to the left and I have to give it a nudge so I can get the wood through.

-Dennis

" It is always to the left........", do you really mean right when looking from the front of the saw. If it is left of the blade as viewed from the front of the saw I doubt that is the problem. If its to the right of the blade as viewed from the front of the saw, then the riving knife is probably the problem.

Is your fence to the right or left side of the blade, when viewed from the front?

Are you experiencing any kick-back forces (binding of the wood) or burn marks on the wood when ripping?

One way to check this is to remove the blade cover/riving knife assembly and rip a board. Keep at least 6" between the blade and fence, using push blocks or push sticks and see if you still have the problem. Remember that you are using the saw without this safety device installed so "BE VERY CAREFUL". If it doesn't feel comfortable to you, don't try it.

[djkert]

If I'm understanding this correctly, the problem may be precisely that you don't have any of them on the right side of the knife.

Bingo. When the wood makes its way through the blade to the riving knife it hits the knife on the left. I have to give the guard a nudge to the right to get the wood to pass. The problem is, I don't have any shims on the right side of the knife. So as I understand it, it is as far to the right as I can get it.

You may have to bend it!

I am thinking that the solution is to bend the knife/blade guard holder. I will give it some pressure to bend it slightly and it will line up for a cut or two, but then it goes back to where it was.

you may need properly configured featherboards to hold the workpiece tight against the fence.

But the board is flush against the fence on the infeed side, so I am thinking a FB wouldn't help, correct?

If it is left of the blade as viewed from the front of the saw I doubt that is the problem.

It is either the riving knife or the blade is not parallel to the rip fence, but I took a straightedge along the blade, drew a line with marker across the entire length of the saw, and measured distince from the fence at both the front and back of the saw. BTW, anyone have a better solution for making sure the rip fence is straight. usually it takes a couple hits with the palm of my hand to get the measurements equal.

The rip fence is to the right of the saw,

Right.

Are you experiencing any kick-back forces (binding of the wood) or burn marks on the wood when ripping?

Burn marks, but I fiugre thats cause I'm going to slow. No kickback though.

[gwyneth]

Bingo. When the wood makes its way through the blade to the riving knife it hits the knife on the left. I have to give the guard a nudge to the right to get the wood to pass. The problem is, I don't have any shims on the right side of the knife. So as I understand it, it is as far to the right as I can get it.

Shims on the left move it to the right. Shims on the right move it to the left.

So, have you tried moving one or more of the shims on the left to the right, and or turning one or more so that the lip on the top faces the other way?

[bdk5]

Instead of shimming the knife to get it to move to the right (which you apparently can't do any further), you may need to shim the blade on the right side to move it to the left. I had a similar problem on my BT, but picked up some brass washers, either from Lee or T-Nuts (I can't remember which). Shimmed my blade to the left and solved the problem.

[Tom Miller]

you may need to shim the blade on the right side to move it to the left.

Yep, I think that's your cleanest solution. Next best is to give your riving knife a bit of a bend towards the fence, if you don't need to bend it too much. But if the bend is substantial, and you go to cut a thick piece, you could run into trouble.

Regards,
Tom

[gwyneth]

That's four or five answers saying: try moving some of the shims that are currently on the left to the other side of the knife, i.e., the right.

[JR]

That's four or five answers saying: try moving some of the shims that are currently on the left to the other side of the knife, i.e., the right.

Yabut, that's going to move the assembly farther to the left, making the problem worse.

It's really not outrageous to expect to tweak the splitter with a little elbow grease.

JR