blade is difficult to be adjusted up and down

[kwok cheng]

I just bought a used BT3000. I find that the blade is hard to be adjust down after raised up to amximum height. I have lubicated it but the problem is the same. Appreciate advice how to fix it. If a clean up is needed, where can I find the instruction to do the clean up? Thanks Kwok

[LCHIEN]

From my BT3 FAQ:
I'm having trouble with raising the blade...
I’m hearing a clicking noise when I raise the blade
What is this shim problem I’ve heard so much about?
Don’t force it! In order from least to worst possible problem:

The clicking noise is normal. This is the spring as it rotates on the keeper pin. Behind the adjustment handle. You can bend in the ends of the wire with a needle nose pliers so it will not catch on the edge of the spring.

It’s very frequently the case that in reattaching the riving knife/splitter assembly, the two bolts have enough play that the riving knife leans backwards. When the blade is lowered, at some point the back of the riving knife touches the edge of the opening and drags, making it hard to lower the blade. Usually no damage done except to pride.

Your saw needs cleaning; internally the dust has gotten to the point where the gears and elevation mechanism are jammed.

Occasionally you will have the dreaded shim problem (a BT3000/Sears 22811 quirk, this has been fixed in BT3100s). The shims are thin metal plates that ride between the motor holder and the saw frame when traveling vertically. They are normally held in place with the motor housing but can be deformed and fall out when the lubrication is not adequate. If you find some small metal plate below your saw body then the shim(s) have likely fallen out and will need to be replaced as they are the anti-wear mechanism. Vertical movement will become difficult. The shims are inexpensive but the labor can be a few hours. Keep your saw lubricated in this area with a dry lubricant. Johnson’s paste wax is good for this. A February, 2005 survey on BT3Central indicated that 70% of BT3 owners never had the problem but that 30% had some problem with shims.
The BT3100 does not have the shim problem because the shims, though used, have a mechanical retainer. You can convert the BT3000 to the BT3100 shim system. The conversion is simple if you will have the saw apart to replace the belts and the cost is negligible
Parts List:
#969600001 Flat shim [BT3000/BT3100}$.90 ea, 2 needed
#0181010314 Spring shim {BT3100} $.86 ea, 2 needed
#0181010110 Guide holder {BT3100} $15.07 ea, 1 needed
#662329001 Dvive belt {BT3000/BT3100} $13.49 ea, 2 needed
The parts are available from:
www.ordertree.com
www.billious.com


Sometimes the threaded elevation rod engages a nut and the nut is worn/stripped. You will need to enlarge the hole and thread a new helicoil (a stainless steel threaded insert) into the hole to repair the thread. See these elevation rebuild instructions by JohnG.
[posted by "Knuckles" Brian] I went the HeliCoil route. Thanks to Ed's instructions in the Article section, it wasn't too difficult. It's not something I'd want to do every day. I searched about a dozen auto parts, hardware, and machine shops in this area, and I had no luck finding the 9/16"-12 Helicoil (or clone) kit. I ended up ordering one from a website called Cartools.com. It cost something like $50, shipping included. Wouldn't you know, though, after I bought it I stopped in a local discount tool place that I hadn't noticed previously; they had a clone (Permacoil) kit for $15.
The next problem was finding a 19/32" drill bit to drill out the lug that the threaded rod goes through. …
Probably the most tedious (and potentially disastrous) step of the repair was drilling out the hole prior to tapping it. I figured that I only had one shot to drill the hole on the same axis, and I wouldn't know how well I did until "the reckoning" of trying to put it together. I used a 1/2" drill bit to help get the bit centered, and find the axis. I didn't measure the angle, but it wasn't exactly 90º to the table. I had to shim it with some laminated air and a few mosquito wings.
Once I got the hole drilled and tapped, the insert went in nice and easy, and I epoxied it in place. I made sure to keep screwing the insert tool in and out so that any epoxy that squeezed into the inside threads was "threaded" in.
I learned something during assembly that's important to the instructions. Install the threaded rod and bevel gears before tightening the screws that attach the motor housing and the guide holder. …
So, long story longer. . . . I was successful at installing the Helicoil insert. I've noticed that there is considerably less "play" in the mechanism, even less than when it was brand new. It's firmer and requires more effort to turn the handle, but not "won't raise/lower right" firm. It still feels like the Play-Skool handle is going to snap. Even though Ryobi Tech Support knows about the issue with the "soft" threads, I'm still going to send a note expressing my opinion that they should "toughen" that part up.

Factoid: the blade raising mechanism has a 12 tpi thread – it takes 12 turns to raise the blade one inch, or .0833" per crank turn. On my saw you can crank it exactly 12 turns one way then exactly 12 turns back and it will come back to about +/-.005" of where you started.

[reddog552]

thred repair

I have foundhttp://www.fulltorque.com/fft.htm this type thred repar far supperior to heli coil

[leehljp]

If it is not the threads, there are two other problems that it could be:

1. Shim(s) dropped out. IF so, replace with new ones and there are a couple of methods to keep them from dropping out again.

2. Sometimes, the riving knife rubbs the back of the throat plate. If this is the problem, move the riving knife forward about 1/16th inch.

[kwok cheng]

Thanks all for the good advices. Kwok

[ssmith1627]

Mine got to where it really was hard to raise the blade and a little less work to lower it.

I opened it up over the weekend and cleaned out the dust and lubricated the threaded shafts. It really works well now.

I had the same feeling -- that if I kept going like it was I was going to break something. The hard part was that my saw is mounted on a mobile cabinet that I built and I didn't put in the hinge type setup that others have. Certainly made it more difficult to get to the right side of the saw itself.

Steve

[kwok cheng]

I ordered two (flat) shims. I cannot find the angle piece of metal, which is on the right hand side of the photo before Step 9 of the article BT3 Shim Replacement. Is that a guild holder? Do I need to replace both of them or just the shims? Appreciate clarification.

[Black wallnut]

I ordered two (flat) shims. I cannot find the angle piece of metal, which is on the right hand side of the photo before Step 9 of the article BT3 Shim Replacement. Is that a guild holder? Do I need to replace both of them or just the shims? Appreciate clarification.

The "angled piece of metal" stainless steel actually is the angled shim that is prone to breakage. The shim gets stuck in place and as the guide holder is lowered it flattens or breaks off the lower tab which in turn allows the shim to fall out and become lost. The "guide holder" is the is the aluminum part that hold the shims in place and has the four screws through it.

If your angled shims are missing your choices are to either replace them or upgrade to the wavy shim design of the BT3100, along with a new upgraded style guide holder.

[kwok cheng]

What is the part # of this angled shim for BT3000 (not 3100)?

[reddog552]

BT3000 shims

http://www.m-and-d.com/pdfs/ryobi_tool/BT3000.pdf Link to shims part is highlited in yellow. part #969599001