Crosscut sled dimentions

[bmuir]

I've searched the forums (articles down) and could not find the answer.

I need to accurately cut 24" wide panels about 30" long. What is the best size for the base of a crosscut sled for use on the BT3100?

Thanks,

Bill

[ssmith1627]

Here are a couple of articles I found. Maybe this will help you.

http://www.woodworking.com/article_archive.cfm?section=6&article=741

http://www.woodworking.com/article_archive.cfm?section=6&article=532

I built a very simple one with some MDF and poplar for the fence. The challenge to me is dust collection because with only the blade kerf, you certainly aren't getting much air movement and you've removed the blade guard as well. I had a dust connection to my shark guard so my next thought is to suspend a hood of some sort above the sled to catch as much of it as possible.

Steve

[LarryG]

I've not yet built a crosscut sled for my BT, although I've been meaning to. Haven't fooled with a design yet but I think I'd want about 8" of engagement in the miter slots before the cut began (which, IIRC, is roughly how far the BT's blade sits back from the front edge of the main table), plus the crosscut capacity I wanted, plus a couple inches of elbow room. So in your case, an inside dimension of 34"-36" -- which is pretty big, and potentially unwieldy, but it can be done.

For crosscutting 24" wide panels that are only 30" long, I personally would use the rip fence. I routinely "crosscut" 2'x4' MDF and plywood panels on my BT. With 24" against the rip fence, there's plenty of length to guide the panel and keep the cut straight. As a rule of thumb I try to limit the panel proportions during a crosscut to 1.5:1 (length:width) but with a 24" wide panel I'll stretch that to 2:1 as long as the piece that's nearest the fence is wide enough for me to maintain good control.

[Tom Miller]

For crosscutting 24" wide panels that are only 30" long, I personally would use the rip fence.

And if your desire is to square up the panel, there are excellent ways to do that using the rip fence, too....

Regards,
Tom

[LCHIEN]

AGREE WITH Tom and Larry - no need for sled , you can cut something 24 x 30 with the rip fence best. At that size, and with plywood, there is no real rip or crosscut except in how you use the guides.

[Anna]

And if your desire is to square up the panel, there are excellent ways to do that using the rip fence, too....

Regards,
Tom

Tom,

Can you please explain how to square up the panel with just the rip fence? I had to build a sled, too, because of this, but if there's a way to do it without using a sled, I'd love to know.

Thanks,

[Tom Miller]

Tom,

Can you please explain how to square up the panel with just the rip fence?

The underlying principle is to affix a straight edge to the panel perpendicularly to a straight edge of the panel. This straight edge should hang over the edge of the panel so that it (and it alone) contacts the fence.

I used to use a framing square and some double stick tape. But now I use one of those all-in-one clamps. Sometimes these clamps have some plastic bits that protrude from the sides; these have to be cut off.

This pic gives you the basic idea. Here, the framing square is just used to set the guide clamp square, then removed for the cut.



Regards,
Tom

[rlah]

I used to use a framing square and some double stick tape. But now I use one of those all-in-one clamps.

*Now* I know what to use that All-In-One clamp for... I got mine at a recent Rockler sale but had been using double-stick tape long enough, I couldn't get out of the habit. This clamp should make operations like this very easy.

rlah

[Anna]

Thanks, Tom. I also have one of those all-in-one clamps from Rockler. Either way, this is a much better way for squaring up a big panel rather than using a big (huge?) sled on the btk.

Thanks again for the tip.