Suggestions for cutting long taper?

[cleeland]

I need to cut a taper in a piece of trim (like, for around a window). I have the angle down okay, having cut a short test piece using a standard taper jig.

The problem is that the piece of trim is pretty long--about 42". That means that my standard taper jig doesn't work because the fence is too short and the jig is too short.

Has anybody cut anything like this? I've played around with the SMT, but can't figure out what/where to attach. I've played around with extending the table using a sacrificial piece of 3/8" plywood. Nothing seems to jump and say "yes, this is the right way!" The only thing that looks semi-promising is somehow (?) attaching a cheap 4' level to the fence-side of the taper jig, but even that doesn't look perfect.

I guess I could just build my own longer taper jig and transfer to angle to it...

Thanks in advance for tips!
-cj

[Scottydont]

I use a saw guide and circular saw with a sacricial piece of wood the same thickness. All done on a 2x4 grid cutting table.

[monte]

You could build a longer taper jig for the table saw too. 42" isn't out of the question.

[Russianwolf]

option 3:

get a straight board at least as long as your trim piece. Attach your trim piece to the straigh board with double sided tape in such a way that the trim piece will be cut at your angle as you slide the straight board along the fence.

[leehljp]

I am having a little problem uploading a picture to my photo hosting site, but I have a drawing that would help otherwise. It is like Mike'as suggestion above.

[dkhoward]

cut it on the bandsaw and then use the jointer to true it up.

[cleeland]

Hi, Mike,

quote:Originally posted by Russianwolf

get a straight board at least as long as your trim piece. Attach your trim piece to the straigh board with double sided tape in such a way that the trim piece will be cut at your angle as you slide the straight board along the fence.

Basically, I would be using the straight board (use MDF or long scrap plywood?) as an extension for the fence, and attaching the piece I need tapered to that at the angle prescribed by my taper jig?

What kind of double-sided tape would you use? 3M foam stuff?

[tfischer]

quote:Originally posted by dkhoward

cut it on the bandsaw and then use the jointer to true it up.

I essentially have to do the same thing for a project slated for next spring/summer. I need to cut about a dozen angled "sleepers" which drop about 2 inches over 10 feet. The lumber will probably be 2x4's, so it will start at 3.5" and end up at about 1.5".

Maybe this is the excuse I need to buy a bandsaw although it would seem like it would be hard to control a 10' wide board on a bandsaw table...

As for the circ saw idea, is there a way to set this up easilly so I can lay a board down and just cut it without having to line everything up each time? As usual, I don't have a lot of shop space so any tables the like I create out of 2x4 lumber would have to be temporary (don't have the luxury of having a permanant cutting table).

-Tim

[gugie]

[quote
What kind of double-sided tape would you use? 3M foam stuff?
[/quote]

Lee Styron gave me a tip a while back that works really well. One of those hot glue guns, the cheapie models that you can get at a craft store, work really well. It comes off fairly easily with a sharp chisel-the double sided tape can leave a lot of residue.

[Tom Miller]

Re: tape. I've had great results with carpet tape. I would recommend not using foam double-sided tape -- too much room for movement.

Hot glue guns are good if you can get the piece in place while all the glue is still melted. If you're slow, some of the glue might get hard, and then the piece will not be sitting flat.

For a taper "jig", use melamine (white) shelving boards which are edge banded on all four edges. Get a 4', 6', and 8', and you're all set for this kind of work.

Regards,
Tom

[Russianwolf]

I use Carpet tape like Tom said. stuff works very well and comes off easily enough.

I've also seen plans for a taper jig made similarly to what I described. Cut 3 of 4 dados across your straight board. Add Hardboard on top (turning your dados into t-slots. add t-nuts and some clamping blocks and viola. a Fully adjustable taper jig that can be made any length.

By the way, the same technique can be used to edge joint boards also.

[LarryG]

[quote]quote:Originally posted by tfischer

As for the circ saw idea, is there a way to set this up easilly so I can lay a board down and just cut it without having to line everything up each time?]

Sure, that's very easy to do ... well, everything is easy about it except maybe explaining how.

Lay down a nice, straight piece that is the same thickness as your workpiece -- in this case, 1-1/2". This will probably need to be something like a 2x6 or even a 2x8 in order to be wide enough. We'll call this your "lower guide." Fasten it down so it won't move.

On top of this, place another nice straight piece, run at the angle you want for your finished workpiece. We'll call this your "upper guide." At each end, the upper guide will be set back some distance from the edge of the lower guide. Determining how far will require a little arithmetic involving the width of the piece you want to end up with and the distance your circular saw's blade is from the edge of the baseplate. When you've got those numbers worked out, fasten the upper guide to the lower guide accordingly.

To cut each workpiece, simply lay it hard against the lower guide, clamp or nail it down, and make the cut by sliding your circular saw along the edge of the upper guide. When finished, remove the cut piece, slide the next one in, repeat.

If that's not clear, holler back and I'll try again.

[tfischer]

quote:Originally posted by LarryG
[br
If that's not clear, holler back and I'll try again.

No that makes a lot of sense. Thanks much!

-Tim

[LCHIEN]

You can make a long taper jig for circular saw and cutting 2x4s
out of more two by fours, as shown here:



Easiy be made from 2 -10' 2x4's, 1 - 10' 2x2 and a few other scraps.
you will also need a couple of short like 3/4" x 2" long dowels to position the workpiece (shown yellow) and you need to space out the 2nd long 2x4 to get the angle you want.
You will probably want to tie down the workpiece to be a little more secure --- you can put ends on the jig and screw it in from the end (be careful - don't put the screws in the cut line!) or put a coupld of screws in the top into the cross-2x4s.

[BizCoach]

Sounds like a great reason to get one of these:
http://eurekazone.org/products/smartclamp.html
The clamps under the guide hold the wood to any angle. The guide keeps your circular saw straight. The saw base makes a splinter-free cut.