Question on rip scale

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  • ofna89
    Established Member
    • Dec 2006
    • 109
    • Portland Maine

    #16
    I just bought my 21829 and had the same question, I think Ill give the 3.5 inch idea a try. Kiredude can you post what you have done or found out about this? Thanks

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    • ddietrich
      Handtools only
      • Jan 2007
      • 3

      #17
      Fix for Scale Sticker

      I'm glad to hear that my 21829 saw is not the only one with the scale sticker adjusted to the far left.

      I contacted Sears' 800 number about it and they are sending me a replacement Scale Sticker free of charge. It should be here within 5-7 days. I will remove the old and either place the new sticker in the middle or right justify it since I don't plan on having the fence left of the blade too often.

      If you are unhappy with your sticker, give Sears a call and have them send you a new sticker under warranty.

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      • MikeR
        Forum Newbie
        • Dec 2006
        • 86
        • Bayside, NY
        • Craftsman 21829

        #18
        The scale on the rail....

        I've never used the scale on any saw that I've owned. I always set the fence up by measuring directly to the blade. This, I think, eliminates any problem with the difference between the center of the scale and the actual blade.

        At least it's worked for me for many years.

        Cheers,

        MikeR

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        • JimD
          Veteran Member
          • Feb 2003
          • 4187
          • Lexington, SC.

          #19
          I don't remember where I got mine but Lee Valley is a good source. Hartville tool is another. They cost $5-10. I use a scale I stuck on for crude measurement but I use a metal rule for more precision measurements. There is enough distance between the pointer and the scale using the rip fence pointer and scale that you can get off 1/64 or even a little more depending on your exact position relative to the saw. I find that a ruler solves this for me. It's still handy to get close with the scale. I shift my rails around so I also do not find it convenient to keep zeroing them after shifting - easier for me to just consider them a rough guide.

          Jim

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          • Russianwolf
            Veteran Member
            • Jan 2004
            • 3152
            • Martinsburg, WV, USA.
            • One of them there Toy saws

            #20
            I just looked at the picture of the saw on the sears website. It looks like you have about 4 inches of movement for the SMT if you set the scale to 0. Does that sound about right?

            If that's the case then I think the scale for the BT3 are similar. I know I have mine set to 0 and I don't have alot of area for movement on that side. But in all honesty, I don't move the SMT that much. I've never found a big need to put it further from the saw.

            Now if you are planning on using the rip fence to the left of the blade as your norm, then I can definitly see why you would want more rail length over there.
            Mike
            Lakota's Dad

            If at first you don't succeed, deny you were trying in the first place.

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