From what I've read on the forums here, I guess the BT3X is history. As I plan to use this fine, dead-on accurate saw for the rest of my life, I'm thinking I need to stock up on parts. So now I'm wondering what parts and how many do I need of each part to keep this saw going for the next 20 years or so. Has anyone else given thought to this or will the lack of parts be the excuse to get the Unisaw or Powermatic? I'm think a cache of parts should include a set of belts, those plastic ends on the miter, maybe the plastic thingys that the SMT slides on. Anything else? How many of each?
BT3x PARTS to stock up on
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I would not be surprised if they sold 1/2 million of this saw in its various editions - the BT3000, BT3100, Sears 22811, Sears 23189 (or whatever the last one was), it's been in production for 15 years and has been wildly popular at the price point they sold it.
That said, there should be many saws available for spare parts in the years to come. Wearing parts are basically the motor brushes and the belts and the blade, but it fits an industry standard blade so that's not a problem. If you ever want to expand the saw, maybe a set of rails is a good investment if you see them for around $50.
People from time to time break the SMT latches when they drop the SMT.
Other than that t seems you can make ZCTPs and everything else should not wear out.Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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The motor brushes are no longer available. For this reason it may be worth getting a motor from a BT3100 and putting it on the 3000 and get a spare set of brushes for this motor, which are available. I just put a set of Helwig Carbon T-95 brushes in my BT3000 and it runs, but I haven't cut anything with it yet, so I don't know what the power is like. I'll probably get a used 3100 motor when finances improve.
MarkComment
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Don't forget shims -- all of them.
Regards,
TomComment
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You know, I thought about removing those miter ends, especially after running them over the blade the first time, but then I thought that it would be better to leave them on as a buffer zone, so to speak. Better to saw through the worthless plastic end than the miter itself. It's worked so far.Jim
(Old Army saying) "If you can't fix it...paint it."Comment
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BT 3000 brushes
Mike is correct on the brushes--if your saw is 1996 or newer. My saw is a 1993 vintage and the brushes for this model are no longer available, and the brushes for the BT3000SXI won't fit in the brush holders.Comment
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