Long miter fence

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  • eddy merckx
    Established Member
    • Mar 2006
    • 359
    • Western WA
    • Shop Fox Cabinet

    Long miter fence

    Hello all. My first post!!

    I got a used long miter fence a while ago, thinking that I would be able to use my BT3100 as a sort of sliding miter saw. This would really have been great because of the usual space limitations. There are several problems with the long fence. The first is that the weight of a long board cantilevered over the left edge of the SMT causes real friction and binding in the sliding mechanism. The SMT also lifts up slightly on the right side, causing a less than 90 degree cut.

    The other problem is that the miter fence is very easy to pull out of position after being locked down.

    Is there something I'm doing wrong--or is this not one of the more useful gimicks for the BT3s.

    I love my saw otherwise. I have a shark guard and DeWalt router on it.
  • LCHIEN
    Internet Fact Checker
    • Dec 2002
    • 20914
    • Katy, TX, USA.
    • BT3000 vintage 1999

    #2
    I think the problem you experience is not uncommon. It also happens if you use a standard table saw with its miter slot.
    The secret is for long boards I find it better to move the whole SMT to the left (you may have to shift your rails)-this only works for the BT3x00, not standard TS- so that the long board is supported better and more to the middle, it reduced the tendency of the whole board to twist which makes the miter fence want to move. It's best if you can support it in the middle but even 1/3 of the way is much better than 12" from the end of an 8' board. Depends on how much you are cutting off- you may also want to use outboard roller ball supports for your wood.

    My real solution is to use a miter saw and miter saw station
    This forum is for discussions about any and all power tools. Whether you are looking to buy a new tool or you have a question about the usage of a tool, this is the place to be!

    the miter saw is best for long crosscuts. IT's my old topic of moving wood versus moving tool approach. When the workpiece is small and easy to move, you use a fixed tool and feed the wood (table saw).
    When the wood is large, you use a fixed wood (ON THE MITER STAND) AND move the saw (miter saw top moves up and down to make the cut).
    Last edited by LCHIEN; 10-04-2006, 07:16 AM.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

    Comment

    • cgallery
      Veteran Member
      • Sep 2004
      • 4503
      • Milwaukee, WI
      • BT3K

      #3
      I agree w/ Loring. It is difficult to cross cut long pieces on a table saw (even a cabinet saw). Long pieces introduce a lot of leverage that is hard to manage safely. Loring's suggestion of moving the rails and the SMT "out" is a good one when you have no other means.

      A sliding miter saw is a great instrument for cross cutting (having replaced radial arm saws in a lot of shops).

      But, don't overlook a hand-held circular saw with a guide. Most all of us have hand-helds, and you'd be surprised how accurate you can get with a home-made guide (or even a block of wood clamped to the workpiece).

      Comment

      • LarryG
        The Full Monte
        • May 2004
        • 6693
        • Off The Back
        • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

        #4
        Since your question has already been answered, I'll just say ... welcome to the forum, Cannibal! I was going to ask about your user name but glanced at your profile and got all the answer I needed. (There are more than a couple cyclists here, myself being one.)
        Larry

        Comment

        • eddy merckx
          Established Member
          • Mar 2006
          • 359
          • Western WA
          • Shop Fox Cabinet

          #5
          Thanks everybody! I guess it's time to go miter saw shopping. Darn. Larry, I have noticed that there are a lot of cyclists who are into woodworking and vice versa. Thanks for the welcome.

          Comment

          • Lonnie in Orlando
            Senior Member
            • May 2003
            • 649
            • Orlando, FL, USA.
            • BT3000

            #6
            Don't throw away the long miter fence. It can also be attached to your rip fence. I have had one attached to my rip fence for years, and like it.

            - Lonnie
            OLD STUFF ... houses, furniture, cars, wine ... I love it all

            Comment

            • gmack5
              Veteran Member
              • Dec 2002
              • 1973
              • Quapaw, Oklahoma, USA.
              • Ryobi BT3000SX & BT3100

              #7
              Welcome aboard!

              Welcome Eddy,

              Congratulations on the acquisition of your BT3100 Table Saw and welcome to the "family".

              One of the first things you need to do, after you get your BT3100 Saw assembled is, following your Owner's Manual, go thru the entire set-up proceedure, step by step, in the sequence laid out in the Manual. Each set up proceedure builds on the one before it, so you MUST keep them in sequence.

              Usually the Saw is set up properly, right out of the box, but you should still check it as this gets you familiar with all the adjustments on the saw and assures you that everything is as it should be.

              Something you might think about is the use of a set of Draftsman's Triangles instead of the Carpenter's Square that they show in the Owner's Manual for setting up your saw.

              An accurate Carpenter's Square is almost a myth!

              A good one will cost you quite a bit of money, $40 - $75, or more.

              I would recommend that you consider using a pair of Draftsman's 30 -60 and 45 degree triangles instead. You'll find they're not near as expensive and are far more accurate than a run-of-the-mill Carpenter's Square. The 30 -60 triangle should have one 12" leg and the other leg would be 9" long. The 45 degree triangle should have at least 8" legs on either side of the 90 degree corner. That way either one can be put up against the side of the Saw Blade without touching the saw teeth.

              When checking the Miter Fence for Square to the Blade with a triangle, use the 12" 30-60, if possible.

              Just remember, regardless of which measuring instrument you choose to use, check it(them) to be sure they're accurate.

              Here's some free plans that'll keep you busy for a while. http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/r...ex.php?cat=102

              And here's some additional information about your Saw that you may find useful.
              Regardless of what you've read or others have told you, NEVER NEVER use any wax or lubricant on your saw that contains Silicone, this includes all automobile waxes and polishes and most spray-on furniture polishes.
              The reason is simple, most of them contain Silicones and they will make your projects difficult, if not impossible, to finish.

              Silicones repell liquid, making "fish eyes" in your finishes, this will force you to remove the Silicones from your project and start over. That stuff (Silicone) migrates all over every where, don't ask me how, it just does.
              If you put it in one place, eventually it will be all over the
              entire saw.

              Your best bet is to use a "dry" lubricant, such as Teflon (PTFE), Powdered Graphite, or Candle Wax for the Raising/Lowering and Tilt mechanisms below the table top.

              Then use either Johnson's Paste Wax, Minwax's "Finishing Wax" or Butcher's Wax on the working surfaces, table tops (All three of them) and the Rip Fence.

              Do NOT Wax the Front and Rear rails or the Miter Fence. As a mater of fact, you may want to glue 220 grit sand-paper to the front face of the Miter Fence, cause you don't WANT things to slide on there.
              You might also want to check out the "Articles" section on the www.BT3central.com site. Lots of good maintenance information on your saw and some of the Jigs and Fixtures that BT3Central members and others have designed for it. Located here: http://www.bt3central.com/articles/

              The only thing you'll need to access the information is a recent copy of the Adobe Reader (It can be downloaded from the BTcentral site).

              One of the Articles mentioned is a "Check List", written by Jim Frye. You can find it here: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-check-list
              This list contains all the different areas on your saw that need to be periodically inspected or given some sort of special attention. In other words, a "Preventative Maintanence Check List" or PM. Performing this PM on a monthly basis would be a good idea.

              One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

              One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it in the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

              Last, but not least, don't forget to paint the RED line!
              It's a line that extends the line-of-sight from the saw blade to the front edge of the table to remind you NOT to let your Miter Fence or your FINGERS get in the way of the saw blade. Just put red paint, nail polish, or what ever, in the grove that extends towards the operator from the front edge of the saw blade.
              Stop thinking why you can't and Start thinking how you CAN!
              Remember, SUCCESS comes in CANS!
              George

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