Different way to collect dust at saw table top?

[schak]

Does anyone have a different technique on collecting dust on the table top other then using the blade guard DC technique? I prefer not to go this route to free up overhead space for my small shop.

Whenever I rip a board where the cut off (the left of the blade) is narrow, a lot of saw dust shoots toward the front left of the saw and on the floor. The blade guard resting on the wood gives a big enough gap for the dust to fly.

I am using the riving knife/blade guard that came with the bt3100. Currently as dust collection I have a 4" to 2-1/4" reduced at the saw port. I decided not to have dust collection at the bottom of the saw in favor of more drawer space for my mobile saw base.

Anyone have any suggestions? ideas?

Thanks

[cgallery]

Whenever I rip a board where the cut off (the left of the blade) is narrow, a lot of saw dust shoots toward the front left of the saw and on the floor.

I've noticed the sams thing. I'm using a Shop-Vac for collection and as long as the blade is burried in the wood the collection is superb. If the edge of the blade is exposed (because I'm only taking 1/16" of wood off, for example)--look out, sawdust city!

In your case (because you have a DC), you could use a belly pan, seal up some of the extra holes, and you'd capture most of what is escaping in your edge cuts.

In my case, I don't think the Shop-Vac CFM is gonna help no matter what.

[LCHIEN]

Does anyone have a different technique on collecting dust on the table top other then using the blade guard DC technique? I prefer not to go this route to free up overhead space for my small shop.

Whenever I rip a board where the cut off (the left of the blade) is narrow, a lot of saw dust shoots toward the front left of the saw and on the floor. The blade guard resting on the wood gives a big enough gap for the dust to fly.

I am using the riving knife/blade guard that came with the bt3100. Currently as dust collection I have a 4" to 2-1/4" reduced at the saw port. I decided not to have dust collection at the bottom of the saw in favor of more drawer space for my mobile saw base.

Anyone have any suggestions? ideas?

Thanks

I installed both 4" to the dust port in the back and to a belly pan in the bottom - see pics at end of this http://users2.ev1.net/~lchien/woodwo...ectorstuff.pdf

I used to get a huge amount of dust hit the floor and covered the inside of the saw until i installed the belly pan. Now, as you can see by the pic, it's nearly spotless .

But, when making a cut as you describe, trimming the left edge of a piece being ripped, there's dust flying all over the left side of the table top.
One day I'll hook a hose to the top of my Shark Guard, not 100% sure that'll catch it tho.

[cgallery]

But, when making a cut as you describe, trimming the left edge of a piece being ripped, there's dust flying all over the left side of the table top.

Do you normally use a zero-clearance insert? I imagine that this is one type of cut where the superiority of a normal insert's ability to aid in DC would be indisputable.

In any event, I've learned to keep at least 1/16" to 1/8" cutoff to the left of the blade when possible.

[LCHIEN]

Do you normally use a zero-clearance insert? I imagine that this is one type of cut where the superiority of a normal insert's ability to aid in DC would be indisputable.

In any event, I've learned to keep at least 1/16" to 1/8" cutoff to the left of the blade when possible.

No, actually I have been using the factory TP. You can feel quite a breeze going in when the DC is on (yes, I personally feel you should have the saw off when you feel for this breeze, but YMMV) but since the outer teeth of the saw are traveling at around 100 mph, I think it can fling the dust at velocities faster than the air moving to the slots. At least fast enough to reach escape velocity.

A really fast approximation/calculation on my part says that the velocities in the dust hoses may be in the 60 mph range. based on 500 cfm in a 4" hose; that agrees with my memory when I really calculated it before.

[schak]

I'm trying to avoid using the belly pan for now due to the way my mobile TS base cabinet is built. A couple of ideas I was entertaining let me know what you think.

1. Use a DC Y at the back of the TS port and run a hose to the front of the saw , left of the blade. Connect a DC "floor sweep" like connection facing up to the front BT rail just below the plane of the table and use it like a saw dust catch.

2. Since I am using a ZCTP, I can drill some holes in grid like pattern on the ZCTP, kind of like what you see on pegboards, to the left/front left of the blade. The idea here is to provide more "suction" where the dust will be flying but don't loose the "zero clearance".

Slap me in the back of my head if these seems off the wall.

[jl]

2. Since I am using a ZCTP, I can drill some holes in grid like pattern on the ZCTP, kind of like what you see on pegboards, to the left/front left of the blade. The idea here is to provide more "suction" where the dust will be flying but don't loose the "zero clearance".

A third option would be make a plate that is zero clearance ONLY to the right side of the blade (where it matters in shaving cuts) and leave a gap on the left side.

[Tom Miller]

A third option would be make a plate that is zero clearance ONLY to the right side of the blade (where it matters in shaving cuts) and leave a gap on the left side.

Or, as we've discussed here before, make a SCTP (swiss cheese throat plate), in which you've got a few small holes placed near the left side of the blade slot. Keep them big enough for DC, but small enough to keep out stray bits (1/2" - 3/4").

Then, there's variations on that theme....

Regards,
Tom

[cgallery]

I think it can fling the dust at velocities faster than the air moving to the slots. At least fast enough to reach escape velocity.

So how about this: Use your miter fence to block the escape route. Maybe even clamp a taller piece of wood to the miter fence for thicker pieces of wood. I can't test this because I'm waiting for caulk to cure in my shop area and I don't want it to have lots of dust stuck in it. But the dust should hit the fence and bounce back into the throat plate slot.

Alternately, use the miter fence and a custom bracket (use your imagination) to hold a hose from your Shop-Vac or dust collector. Your blade will pitch the dust right at the hose.

[schak]

cgallery,

I like that idea of attaching the DC hose to the smt fence; you could adjust the fence angle so that the DC hose openning is inline with the dust trajectory, not a big deal but more efficient. Now I just need to know what to do with that DC hose when I am cross cutting.

Thanks for sharing your idea.

[Jnam]

I know you said you did not want an overhead feed but just wanted to show my set up.





The hose is a bit to long, it will be shortened so its not in the way.

I decided to come from the left side of the blade rather than the top.

[schak]

Thanks for sharing. How are you collecting dust at the router and bottom of the table saw?

[Jnam]

Thanks for sharing. How are you collecting dust at the router and bottom of the table saw?

I have a shop vac hooked independent of the DC cyclone. I dont use the router attachment for this saw, I have a router table that is hooked up to the DC ducting.

[Bulkley]

Because I have a small shop, I have to conserve as much space as possible. My wife persuaded me to build a mobile work station, with lots of drawers, for my saw and I did, using ideas from this web site. (If I ever find a friend with a digital camera, I'll post) Directly under the saw is a trench with a 4" exhaust port which is connected to my DC. It's not perfect, but every three weeks I have to dump the DC bag. I also keep a shop vac nearby to clean up what the DC doesn't get.

The issue is containment. Holes need to be plugged up. Negative air pressure has to be maintained.