SMT Finally Adjusted

[RJD2]

I have been a frequent visitor of this rather informative site for a few years, and this is my long over due first post. My 3100 is approximately 3 years old, and has never produced a 90 degree crosscut even after many attempts following the manual as well as other member's instructions from various posts from this website. I tried again today, and went step by step utilizing the manual/instructions from here which finally resulted in a perfect 90 degree cut. The SMT has been very frustrating over the years, but my particular case proves that it can be aligned if you take the time to go step by step.

[cbrown]

Congratulations! I also recently completed my first successful SMT alignment using the manual and online directions archived here. The first several attempts failed to produce a square cut and (worse) resulted in the piece coming into contact with the back teeth of the blade as the sliding table moved by. The third try I somehow got things dead on and now have a SMT with very little slop that will produce precise cuts. Unfortunately, I'm not sure just what I did differently the last time to get the right result. I do understand a little better now how the adjustments work (especially that removing side-to-side play is not simply a matter of tightening things up but of getting the base wedged --at the proper angle-- between the left and right eccentric screws on the table).

I hope your table, and mine, stay aligned for a while--I'm not sure my base screws will survive many more unsuccessful alignment attempts!

--------
Christopher

[gmack5]

Welcome to the Family

Welcome RJD2,

Congratulations on the acquisition of your BT3100 and welcome to the "family".

One of the first things you need to do, after you get your BT3100 Saw assembled is, following your Owner's Manual, go thru the entire set-up proceedure, step by step, in the sequence laid out in the Manual. Each set up proceedure builds on the preceeding proceedure, so you MUST keep them in sequence.

Usually the Saw is set up properly, right out of the box, but you should still check it as this gets you familiar with all the adjustments on the saw and assures you that everything is as it should be.

Something you might think about is the use of a set of Draftsman's Triangles instead of the Carpenter's Square that they show in the Owner's Manual for setting up your saw.

An accurate Carpenter's Square is almost a myth!

A good one will cost you quite a bit of money, $40 - $75, or more.

I would recommend that you consider using a pair of Draftsman's 30 -60 and 45 degree triangles instead. You'll find they're not near as expensive and are far more accurate than a run-of-the-mill Carpenter's Square. The 30 -60 triangle should have one 12" leg and the other leg would be 9" long. The 45 degree triangle should have at least 8" legs on either side of the 90 degree corner. That way either one can be put up against the side of the Saw Blade without touching the saw teeth.

When checking the Miter Fence for Square to the Blade with a triangle, use the 12" 30-60, if possible.

Just remember, regardless of which measuring instrument you choose to use, check it(them) to be sure they're accurate.

Here's some free plans that'll keep you busy for a while. http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/r...ex.php?cat=102

And here's some additional information about your Saw that you may find useful.
Regardless of what you've read or others have told you, NEVER NEVER use any wax or lubricant on your saw that contains Silicone, this includes all automobile waxes and polishes and most spray-on furniture polishes.
The reason is simple, most of them contain Silicones and they will make your projects difficult, if not impossible, to finish.

Silicones repell liquid, making "fish eyes" in your finishes, this will force you to remove the Silicones from your project and start over. That stuff (Silicone) migrates all over every where, don't ask me how, it just does.
If you put it in one place, eventually it will be all over the
entire saw.

Your best bet is to use a "dry" lubricant, such as Teflon (PTFE), Powdered Graphite, or Candle Wax for the Raising/Lowering and Tilt mechanisms below the table top.

Then use either Johnson's Paste Wax, Minwax's "Finishing Wax" or Butcher's Wax on the working surfaces, table tops (All three of them) and the Rip Fence.

Do NOT Wax the Front and Rear rails or the Miter Fence. As a mater of fact, you may want to glue 220 grit sand-paper to the front face of the Miter Fence, cause you don't WANT things to slide on there.

You might also want to check out the "Articles" section on the www.BT3central.com site. Lots of good maintenance information on your saw and some of the Jigs and Fixtures that BT3Central members and others have designed for it. Located here: http://www.bt3central.com/articles/

The only thing you'll need to access the information is a recent copy of the Adobe Reader (It can be downloaded from the BTcentral site).

One of the Articles mentioned is a "Check List", written by Jim Frye. You can find it here: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-check-list

This list contains all the different areas on your saw that need to be periodically inspected or given some sort of special attention. In other words, a "Preventative Maintanence Check List" or PM. Performing this PM on a monthly basis would be a good idea.

One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it in the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

Last, but not least, don't forget to paint the RED line!
It's a line that extends the line-of-sight from the saw blade to the front edge of the table to remind you NOT to let your Miter Fence or your FINGERS get in the way of the saw blade. Just put red paint, nail polish, or what ever, in the groove that extends towards the operator from the front edge of the saw blade.

[Anna]

Hi, gmack,

I'm just wondering: why shouldn't we put wax on the rails? How is that different from using wax paper, which probably leaves some residual wax on the rails anyway?

I just assembled my BT3100 today, and I've already put a little bit of wax on the rails because it was sort of sticking (fence doesn't slide as nicely as I would have liked). I used a silicon-free carnauba-based wax which is used for finishing wood projects. I was about to use the same wax on the tables.

Thanks for any insight. This website is just so cool.

Anna

[LCHIEN]

Hi, gmack,

I'm just wondering: why shouldn't we put wax on the rails? How is that different from using wax paper, which probably leaves some residual wax on the rails anyway?

I just assembled my BT3100 today, and I've already put a little bit of wax on the rails because it was sort of sticking (fence doesn't slide as nicely as I would have liked). I used a silicon-free carnauba-based wax which is used for finishing wood projects. I was about to use the same wax on the tables.

Thanks for any insight. This website is just so cool.

Anna

Wax on the rails can cause problems with the rip fence locking properly.
Whether you waxed it or wiped down with wax paper, same thing.
Instead of grabbing the rail, the fence may simply lift/pop up partially or all the way.
You can clean the wax off the rails with mineral spirits, that will also probably make the rails clean so that the accessories/rip fence will slide freely.

[leehljp]

Anna,

If you are not having any problems from waxing the rails, then that is great and there is no need to be concerned. However, many people have had problems with the grip of the fence on the rails when waxed. Waxing made the rails so slick that the front clamping mechanism would raise up or lean as the fence handle was lowered into the clamping position. It is a common problem although not all experience it.

If your fence does not exhibit this characteristic, then I would not worry about it. But be aware of it.

[gmack5]

Hi, gmack,

I'm just wondering: why shouldn't we put wax on the rails? How is that different from using wax paper, which probably leaves some residual wax on the rails anyway?
I just assembled my BT3100 today, and I've already put a little bit of wax on the rails because it was sort of sticking (fence doesn't slide as nicely as I would have liked). I used a silicon-free carnauba-based wax which is used for finishing wood projects. I was about to use the same wax on the tables.
Thanks for any insight. This website is just so cool. Anna

One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it IN the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

If you'll notice, I did NOT suggest that you "wax" the Rails, but rather the Grooves that the "T-Nuts" ride in along the back of the Rails. The use of Wax-Paper, rather than "WAX" as such, in order to place the wax-like material in a very localized area. This puts a very small amount of wax in a very specific area away from the part of the Rail that the Rip Fence needs to grip.

HTH

[Anna]

Thanks for the clarification, guys. I put a little wax on the areas where plastic was rubbing against metal because I thought it was "common sense," which, I'm guessing is what many thought also, until they started having problems with their machines. I'll see if I have any problems with the fence having difficulty catching on to the rail. If I do, at least I know how to solve the problem.

I've just put my saw together a few hours ago, and haven't really fired it up yet. I'm a little scared of power tools in general and I like to kind of sit back and make sure I have not forgotten anything before I plug it in. I did follow the instructions as closely as I can, although I had a little difficulty with the SMT fence. Waxed that, too, but not the part that holds the wood for crosscutting (fortunately). I'll have to do some test cuts soon.

Thanks again for the information.