Power Switch Failure BT3100-1

[watosh66]

I have also had the power switch failure which cause the saw to stay on. I took the advice of previous posts and cleaned the terminal inside the power switch. It was burned and fused together. The saw is up and running.

Should I just replace the switch with another new one from Ryobi (hope there an upgrade). Or is there a replacement switch, other than Ryobi, which is more durable.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[LCHIEN]

I have also had the power switch failure which cause the saw to stay on. I took the advice of previous posts and cleaned the terminal inside the power switch. It was burned and fused together. The saw is up and running.

Should I just replace the switch with another new one from Ryobi (hope there an upgrade). Or is there a replacement switch, other than Ryobi, which is more durable.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I would personally:
1) call Ryobi customer servvice and say you have a bad power switch (don't say you fixed it) and you've heard that they have a high failure rate and ask for a new one, free. Better if your warranty is not expired, but try any way.

AND THEN

2) go to the consumer product safety commission and report an unsafe product https://www.cpsc.gov/incident.html

I don't think there is a new switch, you'll probably get the same switch,
do a service to other owners, get the switch recalled, and maybe then they'll be forced to supply a better switch. They had to do it on the first BT3000s about 15 years ago.

Its dangerous to have switch fail with the saw on. Falls under the hazardous incident even if no one was injured (this time).

[bigsteel15]

I have also had the power switch failure which cause the saw to stay on. I took the advice of previous posts and cleaned the terminal inside the power switch. It was burned and fused together. The saw is up and running.

Should I just replace the switch with another new one from Ryobi (hope there an upgrade). Or is there a replacement switch, other than Ryobi, which is more durable.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Is this the black switch, or the red one?
If it is the black one that has a standard rocker switch, then I would contact Ryobi and get the red power tool switch with removable key.

[dwolsten]

Is this the black switch, or the red one?
If it is the black one that has a standard rocker switch, then I would contact Ryobi and get the red power tool switch with removable key.

I thought the BT3100 had a yellow switch with red removable key.

[bigsteel15]

I thought the BT3100 had a yellow switch with red removable key.

Mine is red.
http://www.bt3central.com/attachment...9&d=1149564524

[dwolsten]

Whoops, that's what mine looks like too. Red with yellow removable key.

[gravelybob]

This happened to me as well. Ryobi wanted me to take the saw to a service center. The nearest to me is about an hour away so I took the switch apart, cleaned it up, put dilectric compound on the contact areas and replaced the springs with somewhat stronger ones. It's been working fine for maybe 6 months now.
Bob

[Wood_workur]

Scrap the Ryobi, and get the router table swwitch from Rocler, and mount it on the rails, so you can position it wjere you want. Takes 2 cuts to rember exactly where it is, but you will LOVE IT. THe switch design that Ryobi came up with sucks.


And could Loring make a post about what to do when your switch fails? we are getting so many posts about it, we should have a stickey on it.

[Stytooner]

Ryobi has been plagued with bad switches from the onset of the 3000 as Loring mentioned. They had a recall on those switches. Looks like with a few more complaints, they will have one on this model as well.
Ryobi should take my Grannies lead on switches. Her switches never failed.

[LCHIEN]

...

And could Loring make a post about what to do when your switch fails? we are getting so many posts about it, we should have a stickey on it.

I did! See the second post/1st response in this thread.
I post the same suggestion every time I see a switch stuck on complaint.

I would personally:
1) call Ryobi customer servvice and say you have a bad power switch (don't say you fixed it) and you've heard that they have a high failure rate and ask for a new one, free. Better if your warranty is not expired, but try any way.

AND THEN

2) go to the consumer product safety commission and report an unsafe product https://www.cpsc.gov/incident.html

I hear some are paralleling the poles - its a two pole switch and apparently only one pole is wired; and I'm sure paralleling helps some.

[L. D. Jeffries]

BT3xxx Power Switch

I've had my BT3 for about 4 yrs now and haven't had a switch problem (yet). But being wary of any kind of electrical switch I added suppenders to a belt sort of? Put a double outlet box on the side of the saw; then I wired an on/off switch to an outlet in the box. This way I plug the saw into the outlet and now have a double safe set-up. The "panic" switch on the saw is still operable, but I can turn the saw on @ off with the outlet box switch. When ever I am going to do a blade change or something where I am going to actually touch the blade I unplug the saw from the outlet. Maybe not turning the original switch on/off so many times has helped keep it going??
A safety feature that cost less than 10 bucks!

[Wood_workur]

I did! See the second post/1st response in this thread.
I post the same suggestion every time I see a switch stuck on complaint.




I hear some are paralleling the poles - its a two pole switch and apparently only one pole is wired; and I'm sure paralleling helps some.

sorry, I ment a new thread.

[alexy]

I hear some are paralleling the poles - its a two pole switch and apparently only one pole is wired; and I'm sure paralleling helps some.

Showing my ignorance of AC circuitry here...

Mine had one side switching the hot side of the circuit, and one side controlling the neutral side. Is this considered "parallel" in AC circuitry, or do you mean both poles parallel on the hot side? Seems like that would allow each to carry only half the current. How do you do that? Jumper between the terminals on each side, and remove the connectors on the neutral wires and use a wire nut to join them?

[LCHIEN]

Showing my ignorance of AC circuitry here...

... or do you mean both poles parallel on the hot side? Seems like that would allow each to carry only half the current. How do you do that? Jumper between the terminals on each side, and remove the connectors on the neutral wires and use a wire nut to join them?

basically, yes to all these questions. You're not completely ignorant