bt3000 vs bt3100

[wizard]

hi there, this is my first post and i tried to search the forum for this topic before i posted.
i have the chance to purchase a used bt3000 for $200 or buy a bt3100 new for $210 at hd(after the rebates). what does everyone think? i have no idea as this will be my first saw.
thanks for your time

[LCHIEN]

hi there, this is my first post and i tried to search the forum for this topic before i posted.
i have the chance to purchase a used bt3000 for $200 or buy a bt3100 new for $210 at hd(after the rebates). what does everyone think? i have no idea as this will be my first saw.
thanks for your time

There's a comparison and an opinion in the BT3 FAQ.

Look for a link to the FAQ inthe first post under "Getting Started" forum here.

[gmack5]

Welcome to the "Family"

Hi there!

I have the BT3000SX and while it's a good saw, if I had the chance (and didn't already own the BT3000SX) I'd buy the New Saw (BT3100) in a heart beat.

The BT3000 had a problem with a shim situation that was redesigned in the BT3100 to eleminate the problem. There is a corrective action that can be taken, but for $10 why take the chance?

Anyway,
Welcome Wizard, welcome to the "family".

One of the first things you need to do, after you get your BT3X00 Table Saw assembled is, following your Owner's Manual, go thru the entire set-up proceedure, step by step, in the sequence laid out in the Manual. Each set up proceedure builds on the one before it, so you MUST keep them in sequence.

Usually the Saw is set up properly, right out of the box, but you should still check it as this gets you familiar with all the adjustments on the saw and assures you that everything is as it should be.

Here's some free plans that'll keep you busy for a while. http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/r...ex.php?cat=102

You might also want to check out the "FAQ" in a "sticky" at the beginning of the Getting Started Forum:
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=19968
It'll answer a lot of your questions.

And here's some additional information about your Saw that you may find useful.

Regardless of what you've read or others have told you, NEVER NEVER use any wax or lubricant on your saw that contains Silicone, this includes all automobile waxes and polishes and most spray-on furniture polishes.

The reason is simple enough, most of them contain Silicones that will make your projects difficult to finish.
Silicones repell liquid, making "fish eyes" in your finishes, this will cause you to remove the Silicones from your project and start over.

That stuff (Silicone) migrates all over every where, don't ask me how, it just does.

If you put it in one place, eventually it will be all over the entire saw.

Your best bet is to use a "dry" lubricant, such as Teflon (PTFE), Powdered Graphite, or Candle Wax (parafin) for the Raising/Lowering and Tilt mechanisms below the table top.

Do NOT use "oils" as they will get sticky and attract Saw Dust and "gum up" the mechanisms under the table top.

Use either Johnson's Paste Wax, Minwax's "Finishing Wax" or Butcher's Wax on the working surfaces, table tops (All three of them) and the Rip Fence.
Do NOT Wax the Front and Rear rails or the Miter Fence. As a mater of fact, you may want to glue 220 grit sand-paper to the front face of the Miter Fence, cause you don't WANT things to slide on there.

You might also want to check out the "Articles" section on the www.BT3central.com site. Lots of good maintenance information on your saw and some of the Jigs and Fixtures that BT3Central members and others have designed for it. Located here: http://www.bt3central.com/index.php?page=articles

The only thing you'll need to access the information is a recent copy of the Adobe Reader (It can be downloaded from the BTcentral site).

One of the Articles mentioned is a "Check List", written by Jim Frye. You can find it here: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-check-list

This list contains all the different areas on your saw that need to be periodically inspected or given some sort of special attention. In other words, a "Preventative Maintanence Check List" or PM. Performing this PM on a monthly basis would be a good idea.

One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

Something you might think about is the use of a set of Draftsman's Triangles instead of the Carpenter's Square that they show in the Owner's Manual for setting up your saw.

An accurate Carpenter's Framing Square is almost a myth!

A good one will cost you quite a bit of money, $40 - $75, or more. I would recommend that you consider using a pair of Draftsman's 30 -60 and 45 degree triangles instead. You'll find they're not near as expensive and are far more accurate than a run-of-the-mill Carpenter's Square. The 30-60 triangle should have one 12" leg and the other leg would be 9" long. The 45 degree triangle should have at least 8" legs on either side of the 90 degree corner.
That way either one can be put up against the side of the Saw Blade without touching the saw teeth.

Just remember, regardless of which measuring instrument you choose to use, check it(them) to be sure they're accurate. When checking the Miter Fence for Square to the Blade with a triangle, use the 12" 30-60, if possible.

One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it in the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

Last, but not least, don't forget to paint the RED line!
It's a line that extends the line-of-sight from the saw blade to the front edge of the table to remind you NOT to let your Miter Fence or your FINGERS get in the way of the saw blade. Just put red paint, nail polish, or what ever, in the grove that extends towards the operator from the front edge of the saw blade.

[John Hunter]

hi there, this is my first post and i tried to search the forum for this topic before i posted.
i have the chance to purchase a used bt3000 for $200 or buy a bt3100 new for $210 at hd(after the rebates). what does everyone think? i have no idea as this will be my first saw.
thanks for your time

I have both but if I were in your position I would grab thew BT3100, for the additional $10 you have the warranty.

[leehljp]

What they said above, with a clarification. I am a tinkerer by heart although I am getting over that finally. I have both the 3000 and the 3100. I like my 3000 better. For the price difference of $10.00 I would go with a new one for the warranty. Being a tinkerer, I do not mind the shim problem as there is a quick fix for it when it is needed.

The height / angle adjustment wheel on the 3000 is better. I like the stand of the 3000 too. For some reason, my 3000 seems a tad more solid and better built. I cannot pin point anything, but my 3000 just has a "feel" to it that makes it more preferable to me. My 3100 cuts just as precise, so I cannot figure out why I prefer my 3000.

Having said that, I cannot compare them side by side; my 3000 is in Japan and my 3100 is in the US. When I retire, then they will sit side by side.

[Russianwolf]

depends on what blade comes with the 3000. The new 3100's have a less than ideal chinese blade. If the 3000 comes with a decent aftermarket blade, or the original blade in good condition, I'd buy the 3000 and fix the shims. A decent blade to replace the one on the 3100 will cost about $50.

[wizard]

well, thanks alot guys. i have decided to go with the 3100, i did not think of the waranty situation before posting this topic, and this was the deciding factor. and gmack5, thanks for taking the time to write your reply; the idea of painting a line of sight past the blade is something i would have never thought of.