re-sawing mahogany with bt3100?

[rockybrown]

hi-

i'm new to this woodworking stuff and i don't have a bandsaw- is there a secret to re-sawing with bt3100? it's 5/4 x 6" stock and i want to make it 3/8 - 1/2 x 6. i did try with the stock against the fence and once it blew my breaker and the other 2 times it didn't look good- i'm sure it was my technique.

tia for any and all suggestions,

rocky

[bigsteel15]

Sounds like you need a budget for more tools to me.
See this post for ideas.
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=20428

Seriously, the only way I know that you will get a nice job of this is cutting your pieces twice with the BT3 and then running through a planer or over a jointer and then through the planer.
I think resaw on bandsaw requires same, although I haven't actually done that yet to know for sure.

[LCHIEN]

hi-

i'm new to this woodworking stuff and i don't have a bandsaw- is there a secret to re-sawing with bt3100? it's 5/4 x 6" stock and i want to make it 3/8 - 1/2 x 6. i did try with the stock against the fence and once it blew my breaker and the other 2 times it didn't look good- i'm sure it was my technique.

tia for any and all suggestions,

rocky

well, it should work.
you need to have the rip fence well aligned.
you need to have a tall fence extension
you need to have something to help keep the wood against the fence, like a featherboard.
You probably want a good ripping blade for maximum efficiency
You have to have full electrical power - 15 amps - available to the saw, no other loads on the breaker and no small extension cords.

A bandsaw might be better, it loses a lot less wood and consequently works more easily, will cut it in one pass as opposed to two and the wood you save can be used when you plane it smooth.

[Knottscott]

I think you'd be wise to use a decent 24T ripping blade for that application. DeWalt and Leitz both make a thin kerf ripper with flat top teeth that'll rip pretty aggressively and leave a reasonably clean edge. Freud makes an LU87 24T that has ATB teeth...cuts a little cleaner but not as aggressively. All are reasonably priced.

[Pappy]

I haven't done this with Mahogany but did on several other woods that are harder. I use the 24 tooth Freud Diablo coated ripping blade. I generally take 3-4 passes from each edge, raising the blade each pass until the kerfs meet. This method will leave you some clean up milling to do, but it works.

[rockybrown]

I haven't done this with Mahogany but did on several other woods that are harder. I use the 24 tooth Freud Diablo coated ripping blade. I generally take 3-4 passes from each edge, raising the blade each pass until the kerfs meet. This method will leave you some clean up milling to do, but it works.

thanks pappy- and everyone else.

i didn't think to try it in 3 or 4 cuts- i just raised the blade to app. 3 inches and went to town on it. i'll try it tomorrow.

and yes i do need more stuff in my garage/workshop- however the little lady doesn't share my enthusiasm for wood and all the tools necessary to work it.

thanks again,
rocky

[Tom Miller]

One quick, but I think, very important point:

If you're going to take multiple passes and use a featherboard, make sure the featherboard is not closing the kerf on your second and subsequent passes. At the very least, you'll get a non-flat cut on the off-cut side, like so:




Regards,
Tom

[Stytooner]

I too have done this many times. I recall using the stock blade, although dedicated ripper would work better. If its a less denser wood with minimal resins, I take more aggressive cuts. I use multiple cuts per side for tough exotics.
All good advice on here so far. I will say also that you need a good ZCTP. The gap in the OEM plate is too wide and it isn't perzactly level either.
One the feather board, I use a taller homemade type that attaches to the SMT. I lock the SMT down with a spring clamp and it holds the stock very well.
http://www.leestyron.com/holddown.php
When using a feather board like this, you don't have to put much tension on it. Not enough to close the kerf as illustrated by Tom. I have seen this occur and it does give you non flat parts.

This will leave you with some cleanup to do, but if you take your time with it, the cleanup can be very minimal.

[pecker]

If the original piece is not flat and straight, you will have a very tough time of this. Trying to cut 3" deep into a piece standing on edge means you can't let it rock at all or it will bind between the fence and blade.

And since it's only 5/4" to start with, your throat plate must be adjusted exactly level with the stationary tabletop.