extending rail without new rails

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  • Sawatzky
    Established Member
    • Apr 2005
    • 359
    • CA
    • Ridgid TS3650

    #1

    extending rail without new rails

    I have had my saw a while and have used the fence on the left side only once. So, I only use the rip fence on the right of the blade. I was thinking how I can get the maximum rip without buying new rails. Can the rails be mounted to just one of the two mounting brackets of the saw. If I just use the right side mounting brackets, I would get much more that 30 inches to the right of the blade. If I supported the rails with legs do you think this would work? Or am I just asking for trouble if I try this?
  • jAngiel
    Senior Member
    • Oct 2003
    • 561
    • Ryobi BT3100

    #2
    By having only one place of attachment for each rail it would create a pivot point that would allow movement front to back. Not sure, but it sure sounds dangerous to me.
    James

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    • LCHIEN
      Super Moderator
      • Dec 2002
      • 22012
      • Katy, TX, USA.
      • BT3000 vintage 1999

      #3
      Originally posted by Sawatzky
      I have had my saw a while and have used the fence on the left side only once. So, I only use the rip fence on the right of the blade. I was thinking how I can get the maximum rip without buying new rails. Can the rails be mounted to just one of the two mounting brackets of the saw. If I just use the right side mounting brackets, I would get much more that 30 inches to the right of the blade. If I supported the rails with legs do you think this would work? Or am I just asking for trouble if I try this?
      if you just fasten them to one bracket and use legs then the legs will keep them from sagging, but then nothing will keep your rails from Racking forwards and backwards. Well, maybe the rip fence willdo that but more than likely it will damage your rip fence as it was not intended to do that.

      Not a good idea.
      Loring in Katy, TX USA
      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

      Comment

      • Greg.B
        Established Member
        • Feb 2006
        • 166
        • Joppa, Maryland
        • Ryobi BT3100

        #4
        I have found the max with the SMT on the left and the DMS on the right to be about 24 1/2". (I have a scarifical fence attached to the rip fence so you could without it get perhaps another 3/4")For me that is pefect as it takes care of sheet goods that need to be cut in half. I would guess that you could probably move it alittle bit further but I would recommend you keep it on both of the attachments, it would potentially take away from the accuracy of the saw
        Former Member Name - JohnnyTest

        Comment

        • meika123
          Senior Member
          • Dec 2002
          • 887
          • Advance, NC, USA.
          • BT3000

          #5
          I have the extended rails on my saw, and I can rip 61" to the right of the blade. I built my support legs at the end of my top, and added a Formica top. It works great, and has for many years. The rip fence slides right down the top with no hang-up at all. I have just the one mounting bracket.

          Dave in NC
          Stress is when you wake up screaming and then you realize you haven't fallen asleep yet.

          Comment

          • hobkirk
            Forum Newbie
            • Jul 2005
            • 85
            • Acton, MA, home of the original Minuteman - about 20 miles West of Boston

            #6
            I don't have much experience, so this may be a poor idea. But...

            If you have an extended top surface right or left, you could attact some 1 1/8" flat bar stock spaced so the slot in the rail lines up exactly. Then when you slide your rail so it's "hanging" from only one of the stock mounts it will still be firmly secured.

            [Somebody did something like this in one of the articles under "Mobile BT3s"]
            Doug Hobkirk
            WOOD LOON

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