Texas Scotsman joins the fray....

[leshall]

After some lurking and acquiring I make my first post.

Just moved back into my house after four month remodel during which all my power tools were stolen from my delapidated garage . Have been gradually replacing them and doing it right by buying the best I can afford. I never knew that circular saws could rip through wood so fast (Milwaukee), also now have a jig saw that can hold a line (Bosch).

Eva (my partner) took me to HD this weekend and got me the BT3100 for my birthday. "Anything else you need honey?"

"Well actually this accessory kit might be handy and this Freud dado set could make some lovely shelving..."

What a lucky guy I am!

Anyway, I am still securing the garage and hope to move everything back in this weekend.

My first question is... I bought the Hitachi plunge router that Amazon had some snafu on a few months back. I would like to use it with the BT router accessory plate thingy but the screw pattern is different. Do I just align it up and screw new holes or can I buy a different plate with the right pattern?

I am VERY STOKED and looking forward to making some serious sawdust.

Les Hall, born Aberdeen, Scotland - lived in Dallas, TX for 20+ years.

[Whaler]

Les
Welcome aboard.
I can't answer your question on the router mounting but I am sure someone here will.

[jwaterdawg]

Welcome to the forum!

Sorry to hear about your stolen tools, but it sounds like you will be getting some nice new shiny ones out of the deal, so there is a silver lining.

As to mounting the plate, you have two options:

(1) Drill holes in the provided plate to match the Hitachi router. Should work fine. Most people with the plate would probably take this route (no pun intended).

(2) Make your own router plate out of aluminum, phenolic, or some thick BB ply. You can use the accessory plate as a template.

Either way make sure you dont mount the router too far out on the rails, otherwise the saw will get kind of tippy. That hitachi router is a heavy beast, but man does she purr. Also, make sure you orient the router on the plate so that you have convenient access to the power switch, plunge mechanism, etc.

[LCHIEN]

welcome, Les.
The follwoing link to the BT3 FAQ might be of some interest to you.
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=19968

[Ken Weaver]

Welcome aboard Les! Make sawdust, have fun, be safe!

[gmack5]

Good to have you aboard!

Welcome Les, welcome to the "family".

One of the first things you need to do, after you get your BT3100 Table Saw assembled is, following your Owner's Manual, go thru the entire set-up proceedure, step by step, in the sequence laid out in the Manual. Each set up proceedure builds on the one before it, so you MUST keep them in sequence.

Usually the Saw is set up properly, right out of the box, but you should still check it as this gets you familiar with all the adjustments on the saw and assures you that everything is as it should be.

Here's some free plans that'll keep you busy for a while. http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/r...ex.php?cat=102

You might also want to check out the "FAQ" in a "sticky" at the beginning of the Getting Started Forum:
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=19968
It'll answer a lot of your questions.

And here's some additional information about your Saw that you may find useful.

Regardless of what you've read or others have told you, NEVER NEVER use any wax or lubricant on your saw that contains Silicone, this includes all automobile waxes and polishes and most spray-on furniture polishes.

The reason is simple enough, most of them contain Silicones that will make your projects difficult to finish.
Silicones repell liquid, making "fish eyes" in your finishes, this will cause you to remove the Silicones from your project and start over. That stuff (Silicone) migrates all over every where, don't ask me how, it just does.

If you put it in one place, eventually it will be all over the entire saw.

Your best bet is to use a "dry" lubricant, such as Teflon (PTFE), Powdered Graphite, or Candle Wax (parafin) for the Raising/Lowering and Tilt mechanisms below the table top.

Do NOT use "oils" as they will get sticky and attract Saw Dust and "gum up" the mechanisms under the table top.

Use either Johnson's Paste Wax, Minwax's "Finishing Wax" or Butcher's Wax on the working surfaces, table tops (All three of them) and the Rip Fence.

Do NOT Wax the Front and Rear rails or the Miter Fence. As a mater of fact, you may want to glue 220 grit sand-paper to the front face of the Miter Fence, cause you don't WANT things to slide on there.

You might also want to check out the "Articles" section on the www.BT3central.com site. Lots of good maintenance information on your saw and some of the Jigs and Fixtures that BT3Central members and others have designed for it. Located here: http://www.bt3central.com/index.php?page=articles

The only thing you'll need to access the information is a recent copy of the Adobe Reader (It can be downloaded from the BTcentral site).

One of the Articles mentioned is a "Check List", written by Jim Frye. You can find it here: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-check-list

This list contains all the different areas on your saw that need to be periodically inspected or given some sort of special attention. In other words, a "Preventative Maintanence Check List" or PM. Performing this PM on a monthly basis would be a good idea.

One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

Something you might think about is the use of a set of Draftsman's Triangles instead of the Carpenter's Square that they show in the Owner's Manual for setting up your saw.

An accurate Carpenter's Framing Square is almost a myth!

A good one will cost you quite a bit of money, $40 - $75, or more. I would recommend that you consider using a pair of Draftsman's 30 -60 and 45 degree triangles instead. You'll find they're not near as expensive and are far more accurate than a run-of-the-mill Carpenter's Square. The 30-60 triangle should have one 12" leg and the other leg would be 9" long. The 45 degree triangle should have at least 8" legs on either side of the 90 degree corner.
That way either one can be put up against the side of the Saw Blade without touching the saw teeth.

Just remember, regardless of which measuring instrument you choose to use, check it(them) to be sure they're accurate. When checking the Miter Fence for Square to the Blade with a triangle, use the 12" 30-60, if possible.

One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it in the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

Last, but not least, don't forget to paint the RED line!
It's a line that extends the line-of-sight from the saw blade to the front edge of the table to remind you NOT to let your Miter Fence or your FINGERS get in the way of the saw blade. Just put red paint, nail polish, or what ever, in the grove that extends towards the operator from the front edge of the saw blade.

[Otter]

Well there goes the neighborhood.....another Texan


Welcome to the Cult.....

[vaking]

Welcome to the family.
I have Hitachi M12V hanging in the accessory table with the original Ryobi plate. Drilled new holes - pretty easy thing to do.
Remember one thing - there is only one router table operation that requires precise centering of the router in the table. The operation involves using template guides (those brass or aluminum circles you install for dovetail jigs and more). Most people never use it in a table and then centering the router can be very approximate. Making holes so the router will be within, say 1/16" of the center of the table hole is not difficult.
My suggestion:
Draw a paper template of aluminum plate. Find the center of the hole for the router on this template. Draw a paper template of Hitachi router base. Find center of the router hole on that one. Allign centers of 2 paper templates (use a needle). Rotate the templates so the proper axis match up and transfer mounting holes from base plate template to aluminum plate template.
Remember the proper router orientation. Hitachi M12V has all power controls on one side. That side should be facing you.

[scmhogg]

Les,

Scotland to Texas---Fàilte ya-all. Some culture shock I'll bet.

I did London to California.

Steve

[Pappy]

Welcome to the Asylum, Les!

[John Hunter]

Welcome aboard Les.

[lcm1947]

Yes, welcome aboard Les. It's good to have another Texan around. Hope you enjoy this great forum and the new 3100 not to mention the other neat stuff you're purchasing. Have fun and be seeing you around.

[9johnny5]

Glad to meet ya, hope to see projects soon.

johnny

[AlanJ]

Well there goes the neighborhood.....another Texan


Welcome to the Cult.....

Welcome Les. I do hope your hanging on to your Scottish heritage and not letting the lack of culture down there in Texas get to you


(hey c'mon guys, it was a joke - put your guns away and laugh)