Motor Replacement For 1st Generation BT3000

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  • ifix

    Motor Replacement For 1st Generation BT3000

    I have one of the first BT3000's. I did not discover until years later that Ryobi had went to a more powerfull motor. I continued to use the saw for light work and relied on my trusty Sears Radial for the heavy duty stuff. I could never justify the cost of a replacement motor (Child, new house job change etc.) I am having a hard time getting rid of my BT3000 and would like to finally realize its potential. What if anything can I do. Is it worth getting a new motor for +/- 250.00? are there used motors around? and will they fit? I feel my saw still has a lot of life left in it but it is unusable for most tasks due to its unpowered original motor. Thanks in advance for any help.
  • LCHIEN
    Internet Fact Checker
    • Dec 2002
    • 20914
    • Katy, TX, USA.
    • BT3000 vintage 1999

    #2
    Originally posted by ifix
    I have one of the first BT3000's. I did not discover until years later that Ryobi had went to a more powerfull motor. I continued to use the saw for light work and relied on my trusty Sears Radial for the heavy duty stuff. I could never justify the cost of a replacement motor (Child, new house job change etc.) I am having a hard time getting rid of my BT3000 and would like to finally realize its potential. What if anything can I do. Is it worth getting a new motor for +/- 250.00? are there used motors around? and will they fit? I feel my saw still has a lot of life left in it but it is unusable for most tasks due to its unpowered original motor. Thanks in advance for any help.
    If you are patient you should be able to pick up a next generation motor for maybe $50-75 from someone destroying, I mean parting out their saw. Watch the Classified section here and watch eBay.

    OTOH, the difference in power between 13 and 15 amps is only about 15%, that's something but not a whole lot. If you're holding back feeding because the motor is bogging down, then you may need more power although there could be other reasons. But if you are making the cuts in reasonable time and not feeling like its too slow or not getting burnt cuts from too much dwell time then you are probably OK with the saw as it is. Are you ripping lots and lots of 2x4s?
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

    Comment

    • newbie2wood
      Established Member
      • Apr 2004
      • 453
      • NJ, USA.

      #3
      Check your PM.
      ________
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      Last edited by newbie2wood; 09-15-2011, 04:54 AM.

      Comment

      • Jim Frye
        Veteran Member
        • Dec 2002
        • 1051
        • Maumee, OH, USA.
        • Ryobi BT3000 & BT3100

        #4
        13 amp. a weakling?

        I also have a first gen. BT3000 with the 13 amp. motor. Mine has a build date of 1992. One of the things I have done with the BT3000 is to replace and shorten the power cord. The new power cord is a 3' long, 12 gauge cord with a heavy duty closed face plug. I also upgraded the circuit this tool is plugged into. It is now protected by a 20 amp. breaker and is wired with 12 ga. wire. Between the circuit recepticle and the saw, I use a 12 ga. extension cord that is 10' long and has a Sears automatic switch on the saw end for turning the shop vac on with the saw. The 13 amp. motor will pull more than 13 amps. for short periods and has not suffered any damange or problems in all of these years.

        Part of the reason that Ryobi upped the amperage of the motor in the BT3000 was to give it a higher rating for competition and because they changed factories where the motors were built. I think the change was mostly cosmetic.

        This rig will resaw 3 1/2" hard maple without bogging using a 24T thin kerf blade. I have not really seen a need to upgrade the motor on this saw with this setup. I also have a BT3100 with the 15 amp. motor for comparison. Since the normal 110 volt house circuit is rated at, and protected by a 15 amp. breaker, you probably will not get a lot of improvement with a motor rated at 15 amps over the 13 amp. motor. Both motors will pull all of the amps. the circuit will provide. I'd save the cost of a new motor for when the old one dies.

        For another option, I was in the HD closest to my home last Saturday, and they had the BT3100 on sale for $249. Why buy another motor when you can buy a whole new saw for the same price?
        Last edited by Jim Frye; 03-29-2006, 07:25 PM.
        Jim Frye
        The Nut in the Cellar.
        ”Sawdust Is Man Glitter”

        Comment

        • LCHIEN
          Internet Fact Checker
          • Dec 2002
          • 20914
          • Katy, TX, USA.
          • BT3000 vintage 1999

          #5
          I might add, for those who don't fully understand how motors work...

          When cutting a piece of wood, the depth, and feed rate and hardness of the wood combine to impose a torque load on the motor. Assuming the conditions I names remain the same, then if it takes 10 amps to cut with the new 15-Amp-rated motor then the 13-Amp rated motor will take the same 10 amps to cut the wood. The result and feel will be all but indistinguishable.

          The only time that you will find the difference is if you push - feed harder, then the current will go up. The motors can provide brief overcurrents but if you run them continuously past their current rating then they will bog down and slow and overheat.


          Like I mentioned earlier, the difference is only about 15%.
          Loring in Katy, TX USA
          If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
          BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

          Comment

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