Power switch failure

[wouldchuck]

My power switch just failed in the "always-on" mode, in other words it doesn't cut off the power any more. Has anyone had this problem before, and if so, what is the least painful way to remedy? I'll need to get a new switch, I suppose, but should I try to get it through Home Depot, or Ryobi, or is there another better alternative?

Thanks in advance for any help with this!

[SteveJ]

this happened to me. I think it's caused by vibration. to fix it, I opened the switch by removing the screws which hold the switch to the saw. after the switch was open I reseated each wire lead and clamped each lead down tighter onto its respective switch prong. I then wrapped each lead/prong with a couple of turns of electrical tape to make sure they didn't come loose again. ...Once the switch is open it should be pretty obvious what I'm talking about. good luck.

Steve

P/s just a reminder: don't forget to unplug the saw prior to removing the switch.

[LCHIEN]

Report this to Consumer product safety commission

I understand that you can disassemble this switch and reassemble it after cleaning and it will work OK.

I would also encourage those with the switches going bad
to go to www.cpsc.gov and report an issue. The link says
report a product defect that causes an injury but even if you aren't injured it allows you to post if it might have caused an injury, which a table saw switch that won't turn off could very well do.

[wouldchuck]

Thanks for the advice. I was able to fix it by taking the switch apart and cleaning it. The problem seems to have been that one of the little metal rockers inside the switch had jumped out of position and was causing a short-circuit.

I agree that it's worth posting to the CPSC. It certainly flipped me out just a bit when I hit the stop switch and the saw didn't stop.

Thanks again!

[ryan@cellarsite.com]

Thanks for the advice. I was able to fix it by taking the switch apart and cleaning it. The problem seems to have been that one of the little metal rockers inside the switch had jumped out of position and was causing a short-circuit.

This happened to me and I opened it up this morning to see what was going on.

on my switch the contacts were charred black, and scraping it clean did the trick. My switch had two sets of contacts (DPDT?) so I could have simply moved the wires from one side to the other.

The rocker you saw out of position may not have necessarily been the culprit. On my switch, they were only held in with compression, and easily jumped out of position, when I disassembled it.

The most important thing to take out of this is that you should not trust the power switch when having no power to the saw is critical, such as when you're replacing the blade. Always unplug it.

Dennis

[wouldchuck]

This happened to me and I opened it up this morning to see what was going on.

on my switch the contacts were charred black, and scraping it clean did the trick. My switch had two sets of contacts (DPDT?) so I could have simply moved the wires from one side to the other.

The rocker you saw out of position may not have necessarily been the culprit. On my switch, they were only held in with compression, and easily jumped out of position, when I disassembled it.

The most important thing to take out of this is that you should not trust the power switch when having no power to the saw is critical, such as when you're replacing the blade. Always unplug it.

Dennis

Ditto That!

[jgscott987]

Same here

I had the same problem, with my switch getting stuck in the always on position. I spent a lot of time talking with the investigator from the CPSC as well as a delightful fellow from Ryobi.

The switch in the BT3100 has two poles. In most of the saws there is supposed to be an extra wire in there so that both poles carry the current of the saw (the poles are wired in parallel).

Mine, like aparently many others, was missing this extra wire.

You can take the switch apart and clean it, but it will just get stuck again. The current that the saw draws at startup is too much for the switch, and it will eventually fuse in the on position.

If you have a BT3100, check and see if your switch is wired up to both poles. If not, call Ryobi for a repair- this could really be a dangerous problem. Alternatively, you could fix it yourself by wiring in a jumper, or just putting a big blob of solder between the two pole contacts on the outside of the switch.

ANYWAY, after talking at length with Ryobi about it, they shipped me a brand new saw and let me keep all of my original parts except the saw body itself.

I can't remember the name of the gentleman I talked with at Ryobi, but I can probably dig it up if you need me to. He couldn't have been nicer to deal with.

[ryan@cellarsite.com]

A couple of questions.

When I called ryobi support, I got someone pretty unhelpful, and un-knowledgable. What phone number did you call?

Was your saw still under warranty?

Can you elaborate on which two poles were tied together?

[LCHIEN]

A couple of questions.

When I called ryobi support, I got someone pretty unhelpful, and un-knowledgable. What phone number did you call?

Was your saw still under warranty?

Can you elaborate on which two poles were tied together?

There's only two poles. A pole is a complete switch section. Maybe you're thinking of terminals on the switch...

[jgscott987]

Switch

A couple of questions.

When I called ryobi support, I got someone pretty unhelpful, and un-knowledgable. What phone number did you call?

Was your saw still under warranty?

Can you elaborate on which two poles were tied together?

Yes, my saw was still under warranty, but I feel certain they would fix this problem for free no matter the age of the saw.

The gentleman I spoke with at Ryobi was Wayne Hill. His assistant's name is Debbie Hayes. I don't have a phone number for them, but I know they are in Anderson, SC. I'm not sure if they are listed under Ryobi or Techtronics Industries. Wayne's email is wayne.hill at ttigroupna.com

As I said before, he was very helpful, and eager to get this situation corrected. Feel free to mention my name if it would help- I last talked with him in August '05.

Regarding the two poles on the switch... If you are looking at the back of the switch in a vertical orientation (so that it is taller than it is wide), you would bridge the top two terminals together, and the bottom two terminals together. The poles run vertically- there is a pole on the left and a pole on the right. By bridging the poles together, you essentially halve the load on each pole.

-John Scott

[kgworkman]

Poor Contacts

I work in manufacture of electronic relays for power systems. Our devices are used to control the power lines that feed probably 90% of the users on this forum. We use a lot of contacts, and constantly have to watch the ratings (mainly make and break).

However, on when a switch is opening AC, it is rare to even have to think about the interrupt rating. Ryobi must not be using a very good switch. AC is the easiest thing in the world to interrupt (at household voltage levels). I find it surprising that many of you are seeing charring and sticking contacts.

[jgscott987]

I work in manufacture of electronic relays for power systems. Our devices are used to control the power lines that feed probably 90% of the users on this forum. We use a lot of contacts, and constantly have to watch the ratings (mainly make and break).

However, on when a switch is opening AC, it is rare to even have to think about the interrupt rating. Ryobi must not be using a very good switch. AC is the easiest thing in the world to interrupt (at household voltage levels). I find it surprising that many of you are seeing charring and sticking contacts.

I think the fault occurs when you turn the saw on- the switch contact arcs and fuses itself closed.

[MikeV]

The power switch on my BT3100 also failed in the "power on" position - had to pull the plug to stop. I took the switch apart; one of the two thin brass strips was out of position and appeared as though some arcing had occurred. Cleaned the brass and re-assembled. Works OK now - but for how long? Was NOT impressed by the design/construction of the switch. Looks very flimsy and cheap to me. HOWEVER, judging by the number of postings on this problem, it seems to me that this is a flawed and dangerous component of an otherwise good tool. If this had been an automobile there would have been a "recall?. I'm looking for a good replacement switch - are you listening, Mr. Ryobi!?

[LCHIEN]

The power switch on my BT3100 also failed in the "power on" position - had to pull the plug to stop. I took the switch apart; one of the two thin brass strips was out of position and appeared as though some arcing had occurred. Cleaned the brass and re-assembled. Works OK now - but for how long? Was NOT impressed by the design/construction of the switch. Looks very flimsy and cheap to me. HOWEVER, judging by the number of postings on this problem, it seems to me that this is a flawed and dangerous component of an otherwise good tool. If this had been an automobile there would have been a "recall?. I'm looking for a good replacement switch - are you listening, Mr. Ryobi!?

I posted about the 2nd or 3rd message this thread how to contact CPSC to report a safety issue. That seems to be the only way it will get recalled.
I urge you to contact www.CPSC.gov I think the details are posted previously as I said.

[billward]

Switch Failure

Wow, this doesn't sound like it is a very exclusive club. Mine failed (saw on) after about five months of intermittent use. Like the others, I took the switch about and cleaned the contacts as best I could. Second try got the saw up and running again. Like the others, it took a couple of tries to get those little contacts set in the right position.

I'll try for a replacement from Ryobi (should be under warranty) but I'm almost afraid a replacement switch will do the same thing unless Ryobi has upgraded the switch.

Hope Ryobi can help us all out with a better solution.