My arbor spacers aren't flat enough

[cgallery]

My 1/2 and 1/4" arbor spacers aren't flat enough. They contribute to significant blade wobble.

I had always suspected them. And I was always able to minimize the wobble by fiddling with them. But tonight I used two blade stabilizers and a plastic spool from a roll of solder to improvise a spacer and found that my blade wobble was GONE (I'd need one of those setup gauges to measure any remaining runout).

Of course, plastic bobins do not make durable spacers. Anyone else experience this? Where can I get good spacers? I'd order some from Ryobi, but don't want to take the chance that the replacements aren't any better.

Thanks!
Phil

[Stytooner]

I'd consider that this is a rare instance that this is happening. Chances are replacements will indeed fix the issue. You can get these at Mcmaster Carr for $15 each. I think they would be cheaper through the Ryobi Parts source.
It also sounds like this is a Warranty issue and Ryobi sometimes ships out the parts needed pretty fast.

[Les Sayers]

My arbor spacers aren't flat enough

Good advice from Lee.

I had a similar problem on an old SCMS and new spacers shims were no better. I was lucky in that a pal of mine teaches engineering at a local Technical College and he made new ones for me. It was as if I was using a completely different saw. If new spacers do not work maybe you know of a local tame engineer who would help.

[Ken Weaver]

I would definitely call Ryobi - this is first time I've heard anyone have a spacer problem but I guess like other things it can happen. Give them a chance to make it right before spending any $.

[cgallery]

A brief update.

I went to the hardware store this morning and picked up two identical shaft collars. They are 5/8" ID, 1 1/8" OD, and 1/2" in length. They didn't have any 1/4" long. While I figured one wasn't enough and two was too many, I could at least use my two existing stabilizers with different combinations and do some testing.

While driving home with them I had a wait at a long light. I took them out of the bag and looking at one of them I thought, "gee, that doesn't look flat." I was beginning to think I was crazy. I took 'em home and sure enough, one is very flat (blade spins with little runout), the other isn't so flat (but flatter than the Ryobi part).

I'm glad I bought two. Had I purchased one I would have probably gotten the bad one and I would really doubt my sanity. BTW, these were $2 each, so I don't feel like I've wasted too much money.

I called Ryobi tech support this morning and they are sending me two each of the 1/2 and 1/4" spacers, no charge. They thought that should cover my bases and is much appreciated seeing as the saw is 5+ years old. He said they take up to two weeks to ship, so I may be hobbling along for a while.

McMaster wants $16 for a 3/4" long spacer, they don't offer a 1/4" long spacer, and I am concerned that if the McMaster spacer isn't flat, I'll be back in the same boat but $16 poorer.

In the mean time I have a friend that works at a laser cutting ship that cuts lots of 1/4" steel. He is going to cut three washers that are 5/8" ID and 1" OD and 1/4" long for me next time he cuts 1/4". They won't be ground flat, but it will be interesting to see just how flat they are. Knowing him they will be cut to aerospace tolerances. I actually have the most hope for his solution, as he is the only person I know that carries dial calipers with him wherever he goes.

Thanks!
Phil

[cgallery]

Another update: My friend w/ the giant Mitsubishi cutting laser cut some 1/4" steel into washers (5/8" ID, 1" OD). So it takes three of them to replace the 1/2" and 1/4" washers that came with the saw.

And oh what a difference they make. Absolutely no wobble. If I want to measure runout at the teeth of the blade I'm going to need one of those special table-saw dial calipers. These work better than the arbor collars I purchased at the hardware store.

The saw is quieter (less vibration), makes smoother cuts, and seems happier. It will be interesting to compare his laser-cut washers with the ones Ryobi is sending.

Why did I wait so long?

Thanks,
Phil

[gjat]

I'm having the same problem with my new BT. When I first put it together, I could physically see the wobble in the blade when I turned it by hand. I took the blade off, the stabilizers, and the collars, and cleaned everything. I could not see any obvious problems. I also checked the blade with a straightedge and it looked good as far as I can see. When I assembled it, the wobble was barely noticble, but I still have about 1/32nd wobble at one point. I wish I had a friend with a laser. LOL!

Am I being too picky?
How can I check to see if the problem is one of the stablizers, collars, or blade?

[cgallery]

I tried two blades, both of them wobbled. So, I loosened the blade nut just enough so a blade could spin on the arbor. Giving it a spin, I observed no wobble. So, I figured it wasn't the blade. I had some blade stabilizers, and tried to use those to replace the blade washers. Blade still wobbled. That is when I started looking around the house for things I could use to replace the spacers, and found the solder spool and the blade stabilizers allowed me to cobble together something that eliminated the wobble. PLEASE NOTE THAT I NEVER TURNED THE SAW ON WITH ANY OF THESE TEST CONFIGURATIONS. I ONLY TURNED THE BLADE BY HAND.

So I guess my advice is to experiment with stuff around the house. And you can always call Ryobi as I did and see if they'll send replacement spacers. While I haven't received my spacers yet, users here seem to have no problems with their spacers and I have every reason to believe the replacements from Ryobi will be perfect.

I also ordered two spacers from McMaster. A 3/4" long and a 1/2" long. I got them today and I'm gonig to try them tonight. I doubt they will work better than the 1/4" spacers by friend made. But I didn't know he was going to make them the day we spoke and rush them over. Had I known that I wouldn't have spent $40 for spacers from McMaster. Oh well, live and learn. I've wasted $40 on bad movies. And I'm normally pretty frugal.

Thanks,
Phil

[BobSch]

I...I wish I had a friend with a laser. LOL!

Maybe Phil's buddy should start a sideline biz making custom spacers.

[LCHIEN]

make your own arbor spacer...

I had thought about posting a suggestion to make your own.
maple, thickness planed to 1/2", sides should be parallel within +/-.001"
Check it with a good pair of calipers.
Use a 1.75" hole saw leaving a 1-5/8" disk.
Carefully center on the DP using the hole saw arbor bit, then clamp in place. Use a 5/8" forstner to drill an accurate arbor hole.
Use a sanding block to round over the sharp edges, and a slight chamfer on the arbor hole to get rid of any dimple and edge artifacts. Check the thickness again with the calipers.

You should end up with a nice disk with 1/2" wall and 1/2" thick and a good arbor hole.

The centrifugal force near the center is low (so the forces that try and break the disk are low) and any imbalance from the disk will be small due to the light overall weight and close proximity to the center.

Failure of the disk will either result in ejection of the disk at relatively low velocity or it will continue to stay in place being held in compression by the arbor nut.

Still, it's spinning at 5500 RPM so do this at your own risk. It might be a way to see if it makes a difference.

[gjat]

Talked to a friend who used to work in cabinet shop. He explained in d-e-t-a-i-l how the arbor washers or arbor alignment could be the problem. I called Robi customer service and they were happy to send a new arbor assy and arbor washers & spacers. He also said he would lend me his dial caliper to check the arbor. According to him, it doesn't take much to cause a wobble.

Dang. I'm disappointed.