Mounting dado on BT3100

[pmichener]

I started my first project today with my new BT3100, and had to do some dado cuts. Went to mount my Sears adjustable dado, and realized that there isn't enough clearance to slide the dado over the arbor.

Is there a trick to this, or do I have to switch to a stacked dado for the table saw.

Completed my project using dado on RAS, but I have restricted room with the RAS, would have been easier on the BT3100.

[LCHIEN]

I have been able to mount one before. But everytime I do its a puzzle that needs to be solved. IIRC, the key is to raise the blade assy as far as possible. Tilting the arbor does not help.
As with most things BT, Force is not required. Finesse is.
Assuming you are standing to the side of the saw with the arbor pointing to your belly,
lower the dado assy into the blade guard area, tilting as you do, to the side of the arbor. when the hub is below the arbor level, you can move it to the side and under the arbor and get it on from there. I haven't done this for a while, so I know its possible but just difficult as heck. One more reason I like a stack dado on this saw!

[tfischer]

As Loring mentioned, the biggest mistake is failure to crank it up as high as it will go before attempting. My Freud SD206 slips on without any fuss or muss...

-Tim

[LCHIEN]

As Loring mentioned, the biggest mistake is failure to crank it up as high as it will go before attempting. My Freud SD206 slips on without any fuss or muss...

-Tim

Tim,
SD206 is a stacked dado, not a wobble type. The wobble types have a wide hub that's real hard to get on because of the blade shroud...
Stacked dados are a cinch.

[tfischer]

Oops I should have caught that.

Don't think I'd trust a wobble on my BT3, but that's just me...

-Tim

[Ken Weaver]

If its a true "adjustable" dado instead of a wobble, you may have to take off one or both of the inside spacers (closest to the motor side) on the arbor. I take one or both off depending on how wide my SD206 stack is. If I remember what the adjustable ones look like, they have a thick hub regardless of the dado width being set. If you don't take them off, at least part of the blade will set on the outside threads which is not a good thing.

[LCHIEN]

The hub of a wobble-type dado is usually at least 3/4 if not wider, probably 13/16.
And you do have to take off some spacers or the nut won't even go on - I figured that much was understood.

As far as being over the threaded portion of the arbor, that's
a big problem with a stack dado because part of the stack will be on the threads and slightly off center making a non-flat bottom.
with a wobble dado you have some leeway because the hub is one-piece, no part will sit low even if the end of the hub is over the threads. You just leave off the outside blade washer, if necessary. With an 8" wobble dado you only take off the 1/2" spacer and leave the 1/4". Since the hub is 13/16" you pretty much have to leave off the outer blade washer.

[Ken Weaver]

What Loring said (DAMHIKT). Didn't realize the wobble hub was that thick.

[John Hunter]

I use a Sears wobble dado sometimes and the trick is cranking the blade all the way up and rotating the dado blade so that it slips onto the shaft. Of course the spacers will have to be removed. I actually found a spacer half the thickness of the smaller of the two that comes on the saw. This enables me to get a full nut on the arbor.

[scorrpio]

If the problem is getting the hub between the arbor and the blade shroud (I suspect that Freud dial-a-dado will have same problem), you might need to use a little bit of force. The shroud appears to be made from fairly thin gauge steel, so it should be possible to pull it back enough for hub to clear. However, from my experience (in a different situation) getting it off will be harder than putting it in. If you still can, I'd suggest returning that wobble and getting a stack.