Sliding miter table problem

[lcm1947]

Today I had to take the rails off the saw for a reason and after getting them back on decided to check to make sure the miter table was still parallel to the blade. Well it seems that it's about 1/32 to a 1/16 off and I cannot get it any closer after following the instructions - several times in the manual. Do you think this would have any real negative effect on the operation of the saw or is this about as good as you can get?

[LCHIEN]

Today I had to take the rails off the saw for a reason and after getting them back on decided to check to make sure the miter table was still parallel to the blade. Well it seems that it's about 1/32 to a 1/16 off and I cannot get it any closer after following the instructions - several times in the manual. Do you think this would have any real negative effect on the operation of the saw or is this about as good as you can get?

Sounds a little high.
When you place the SMT every time, do you follow a specific lock lever actuation pattern?

You are supposed to simultaneously lock the fron two, then the back two. Thta helps a lot in repeating the SMT alignment when the SMT is removed and then replaced or even moved. Obviously it should have been locked down this way prior to alignment and then followed every time it is moved.

[lcm1947]

Thanks for the reply Loring and Yes I always lock it down that way ever since hearing about it way back some time ago on this forum. So you think 1/16 to 1/32 is too much then? I messed with it several times and can't seem to get it any closer but I could try more if those measurements aren't good enough.

[Black wallnut]

Try Adjusting the base

If you follow the steps outlined in order in the users manual you should be able to get it perfect!

• parrellism is establised by the base

• 90° is set with the back eccentric miter table screws

• slop is removed with the front left eccentric screw

There is plenty of trial and error involved.

[lcm1947]

If you follow the steps outlined in order in the users manual you should be able to get it perfect!

• parrellism is establised by the base

• 90° is set with the back eccentric miter table screws

• slop is removed with the front left eccentric screw

There is plenty of trial and error involved.

PREFECT! So how come close isn't good enough. OK, Mr. Perfect I'll try again. No really thanks for the reply. I just knew somebody was going to say that. Bummer.

[lcm1947]

OK, thanks guys. I got it to cut straight as an arrow. Perfect! Just took 2 more tries.

[just4funsies]

I scribed marks on my rails once I had my SMT adjusted properly. That way, when I take it off, I can put it back EXACTLY where it was. Never had to give more than a tap or two to get it lined up again, and usually it's right on from the start. Also, when it's not on the saw, I lay it flat out, rather than stand it on end or edge. This seems to keep me from knocking it out of adjustment.

[lcm1947]

Good idea about marking the rails just4funsies. I never thought of doing that but I'll copy that hint myself now. Yeah I know what you mean about knocking stuff off or down. The funny thing is everything I do knock something over I always say " I knew that would happen ". You'd think a person would learn wouldn't you?