How do you collect the saw dust?

[JonW]

Hi Folks,

I just set up my BT3100 for the first time last night. (After a stripped throat plate screw, all is well.) The saw dust seems to be spit out the back, from that hole that rotates as you change the blade angle. I think the hole is too big to put a regular shop vac hose on it. So what do you folks do to collect the saw dust and prevent it from flying out all over the place? I searched around this forum and didn't seem to find a consensus on what people do. I'm OK to go buy a small shop vac. Can I just hook that up some how? But I'd rather not pay for a full dust collection system.

Oh, one other question- is there a trick to getting the miter fence to move freely after unscrewing it? It seems I have to completely lift it off the table to get it to then move.

This is my first time ever using a table saw.

Thanks!

-Jon

[scorrpio]

The hole in the back is a standard 2.5" shop vac port. I have not installed a full DC system yet, but I currently have a Ridgid wet/dry 12 gallon vacuum ($70 at HD) which I bought on sale for $25. It works pretty well.

Overall, for the shop, you really want to stay away from anything less than 2.5" - those vacs with 1.25" ports are ok for minor cleanups, but for the amounts generated by woodworking powertools, you want at least 2.5", prefferably a 4".

If your miter fence would not move, you likely installed it wrong. Like washer in the wrong place etc. Check manual carefully.

[ksu93]

A standard shop vac will work just fine to collect the saw dust. If you ever buy a dust collector, you can buy an adapter to connect a standard 4" dust collector hose to the dust port on the back of your saw. Unfortunately I cannot recall who makes or sells it, but if you ask around here there are probably plenty of people who can help you.

One other thing I recommend is to get a handy little auto switch from Sears. You plug the saw and the shop vac (or dust collector) into it, and when you turn on your saw, the shop vac will automatically turn on. Then when you turn off your saw the shop vac will run a few seconds longer to clear out the remaining dust and then turn off. I absolutely love it. Funny how something so simple can make woodworking so much more enjoyable. And frankly I think it makes woodworking safer too because it means you don't have to move around so much turning things on and off. I hope you enjoy your new saw.

[scorrpio]

I tried to find some exact specs on this switch, but couldn't find an answer. It looks to me that it will power accessories from the same circuit as the main tool - is that correct? If so, you gotta be careful about using it. A low-power shop vac might be fine coexisting on the same 20amp circuit as the TS, but what if you plug in something more powerful?

In short, a question for ksu93: my TS and my DC are on separate dedicated 20 amp circuits. Will this switch work for me if I want to keep them separate?

[JR]

Scorrpio,

I have the same gizmo as KSU93. When I switched from shopvac to dc I discontinued use of the gizmo. I forget if it wouldn't work or was too complicated to connect accross the shop to the circuit for the dc. It would surely stress the gizmo to run a dc and ts on it.

I ended up using x10 for the DC. I've got a remote control in my shop apron, which allows me to turn on the DC no matter where I am in the shop, not just when I fire up the table saw. This has worked out very well.

JR

[LCHIEN]

I tried to find some exact specs on this switch, but couldn't find an answer. It looks to me that it will power accessories from the same circuit as the main tool - is that correct? If so, you gotta be careful about using it. A low-power shop vac might be fine coexisting on the same 20amp circuit as the TS, but what if you plug in something more powerful?

In short, a question for ksu93: my TS and my DC are on separate dedicated 20 amp circuits. Will this switch work for me if I want to keep them separate?

You are correct in surmising that the autoswitch powers the accessory from the same source as the main tool.

And you have a valid concern about perhaps drawing too much current from the same circuit.

Quite a few people use this combination, though, including Jim Frye. While the theory says it is a possible problem, I used it for quite a while without issue or blowing breakers. I guess that says that your saw seldom uses full power for your common cutting tasks. Nontheless I eventually stopped using it because of the Theory but mostly because I got a large DC instead of shop vac.

There are these possible approaches to the problem:
1. Use it until you find you are blowing breakers or having insufficient power
2. Use it but use the accessory output to drive a contactor switch which is a relay that switches the power in a separator circuit to drive the accssory - so that the saw circuit only provides a relatively low relay current.
3. Do as you have been doing and use a separate circuit and manual switching.

[JonW]

Hey Fellas,

Thanks for the response. So, basically, if I just go out and buy a shop vac, I can hook it up to the saw and be good to go? Any recommendations on a cheap shop vac? I guess I might want to buy it at Home Depot (?), where they have the saw on display, so I can hook it up to the saw to make sure it fits. Thanks.

-Jon

[just4funsies]

The startup loads of my saw and my big shopvac will trip the breaker if started simultaneously, so I just have to start one before the other, and they work fine. Everybody's home wiring and power cord setup are a little different, not to mention their input voltage at the service, so what works for one may not work for another. You just have to try for yourself to find what your installation will tolerate. (Make sure to use big ol' fat extension cords, if you must use one at all, and make it only long enough to reach... a custom short cord and outlet box is best, rather than a 100 footer coiled up on the floor.)

[91FE]

The hole also fits the elbow and dust bag that come with the accessory kit. Just another option. The kit came free with my saw and I've used the bag since day one. I have since purchased a DC, but I don't plan to open it until I move into my new shop.

[sacherjj]

I believe they need to be on the same circuit. I use a radio controlled switch, which I purchased for my dust collection system.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...lance&n=228013

I currently use it with the shop vac, but it will run the HF DC system shotly. With this, I run them on different circuits. About double the price as the Sears unit, I believe, but you can just carry the remote with you and control the dust collection system at any connected tool.

When you get the shop vac, use a disposable bag in it. One will probably come with the shop vac, but you will need more. Don't go for less than 12 Gallons. I believe mine is a 16. When I tried to use it without the bag, my filter almost immediately plugged up and my suction dropped dramatically. When I start to loose suction, I just dump the bag and drop in another. Works pretty well.

[JonW]

Would something cheap like a $40 Ridgid shop vac work OK to hook up to the saw?

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80HDUS/...rchResults.jsp

[LarryG]

"Work" is a relative term.

Would something cheap like a $40 Ridgid shop vac work OK to hook up to the saw?

It will work, but you'll be emptying it, and cleaning the filter, so often that you'll be kicking yourself for not ponying up more cash. As Joe said, go for a minimum of 12 gallons. Sixteen, even better.

[JonW]

It will work, but you'll be emptying it, and cleaning the filter, so often that you'll be kicking yourself for not ponying up more cash. As Joe said, go for a minimum of 12 gallons. Sixteen, even better.

Makes sense. I've just never used a table saw before, so I have no feel for how much saw dust will be coming out of this thing.

Basically, are these Ridgid shop vacs OK? And just get one of an appropriate size (12 gallons or more)?

[ksu93]

I actually didn't even realize the two machines had to be on the same circuit. It has never been an issue for me because they're always plugged into the same electrical outlet in my garage.

I used the Craftsman thingy for several years with my shop vac before finally buying the Harbor Freight dust collector about two years ago. I can definitely perceive a drag when the DC first kicks on, but after a moment it revs up to full power. I have never blown a breaker.

[LarryG]

Basically, are these Ridgid shop vacs OK? And just get one of an appropriate size (12 gallons or more)?

They're fine, as are the Shop Vac (brand) models at Lowe's. The features, capacity, and horsepower ratings vary but these things are mostly a case of "exactly the same, but different." Wait until you can catch one brand or another on sale and then buy the biggest tub and the most power you can for the fewest number of dollars. Just make sure you get one with a paper filter cartridge; the foam-only ones clog too easily.