Combining BT3000 and BT3100

[e21pilot]

I've come across a BT3000 and a BT3100, both in various states of dis-repair.

I think I can make one good saw out of all the usable/working parts and toss the rest. All things being equal, I'm wondering which parts on which saw to use. I've heard the BT3100 had some improvements over the BT3000 parts however I've also heard the materials were better on the earlier model.

Also, the aluminum pieces have been outside for sometime and are heavily corroded. I wonder if there's any good way to polish/clean/restore them to their original finish.

One final question, if I remove the motor and it's assembly from the BT3100, will it bolt into the BT3000? If so, is there any alignment necessary or does it just bolt in perfectly square and true?

Yes, I could just buy a new one but I'm looking forward to this small scale restoration project.

Many thanks,

RGW

[LCHIEN]

If you haven't already, check out the FAQ, Link in this Thread:

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=1699

There's a question and Answer about the differences between the two models. Also which is preferable for which reason.

My prefernces in your shoes all else being equal
Use the BT3000 base, the BT3000 exterior, the BT3100 motor and elevation mechanism with lift and improved shims, the BT3000 elevation and bevel knob. The rest is not so critical. I suppose if the anodized BT3000 top were severely corroded and the BT3100 powder coated top were in better shape I would go with that, Other than that the BT3000 exterior was better looking to me.

BTW, welcome to the forum.

[JimD]

I have never used a BT3000 so I am not much of an expert on it but I will offer a couple comments. First, I think the rip fence of the BT3100 is better because the pointer is better protected. It will fit the front rail of either the BT3000 or BT3100 but goes better with the front rail of the BT3100. The rear rails of the saws are the same except for color (3000 shiny, 3100 black). One of the bigger improvements of the 3100 is supposed to be the shims for the splitter and for the height mechanism. The shims for the splitter of the 3100 are angled at the top. You reverse the ones that go on one side of the splitter versus the other. That lets you easily return the splitter back to the position it was in without counting shims. The shims that keep the aluminum pieces from contacting in the lift mechanism can more easily get out of position on the BT3000. That is apparently a bit of a mess to correct. The SMT of the BT3000 looks like it might be nicer made. The 3100 is functional but the table is bent steel, nothing fancy. The 3000 looks like an aluminum extrusion.

Jim

[kmk]

I own BT3100-1 and I wanted to add more accessories such as wide table etc. to it. So, I recently bought a BT3000 used in a homeshop. Lucky for me, it came with mobile kit and the original owner built a storage cabinet inside the box stand. It looks really solid.

Now, My BT3100-1 stands on BT3K stand and I use BT3K SMT (on the right side. I havent used it in that setup though) and its accessory table. Unfortunately, BT3K rails (front one) has different profile and they are in silver so I'm not going to use them.

I tapped on BT3K table and BT3100 table, they sounded different. I think BT3K table looks more solid.

[maxparot]

I'd go with the BT3100 parts except for the saw stand and the blade elevation wheel.

[Jim Frye]

There may be some incompatability

Check the locker brackets and the arbor/motor mounts on the two saws. Early production BT3000s had a couple of motor design changes that made for some differences on the arbor plates. The BT3000 actually had three different motors during its life cycle. The shim design changes between the 3000 and the 3100 may make some difference also. Best suggestion would be to use the 3100 motor with it's locker bracket and main table as a unit and not mix these peices.