What else to buy along with BT3100k ?

[venkatbo]

Hi folks,

Got side tracked a bit with the recent Amazon deals...
and blew my budget... but need to get back to buying my
last piece of gear for the time being ..., i.e., the,
i*TS*elf

Reading these forums for a while, I've compiled the
follwing list... I Couldn't find one summarized list anywhere...
so was hoping folks would correct me it and add more
detail/items if needed. If the amounts/models for big ticket
items can added, that'd help budget for this too - all geared
towards garage/kitchen cabinet/panel-door building...

Thanks,
/venkat

• BT3100k
  • 250$, HD
• MDF cutting blade
• Pywood cutting blade
• Dado blade
  • ?$, (Freud or other?) - where to buy?
• Shark guard/stick
  • 125$, http://www.leestyron.com/sharkryobi.php
• Dry-lube/Wax
• Paste Wax
• Draftsman's triangles
• Hercu-Lift
  • 29$, HD
• ZCTP
• Wax paper
• Red-line marker
• Assembly tools ?
• Others

[JimD]

A good all purpose blade is probably a better idea than a "mdf" blade and a "plywood" blade. Mdf is easy to cut and the stock blade will be fine. More teeth can help when cutting plywood but a sharp all around blade will do it fine. Forest blades get good reviews - their price if fairly steep, however. I use a Freud LU84 - a 50 tooth that will do most things well. If you will do deep rips you should also get a 24 tooth ripping blade. You can get both for about what a Forest will cost. A 60 or 80 tooth blade is a bit better for plywood but you can get by with the one all around blade.

For the top of the saw, Johnson's paste wax is what you want.

For lubing under the saw, you want something that drys, not something that stays oily.

Jim

[kmk]

Featherboard
Outfeed table
Wide table
Shop VAC for dust collection

( ArtMedia has nice alumnium drafting triangles. )

[Pappy]

I don't see any mention of clamps...

If you are going to be cutting a lot of plywood or making a lot of cross cuts on solid stock, stock up on blue or green painter's tape. A strip of tape along the cut line virtually eliminates tear uot.

[Wood_workur]

Hey- I have used my stock blade for everything. It works fine. I see no need for any other blades.

[Never2old2start]

What, no beer money worked into the budget? that's odd, lol.

~ Paul ~

[LCHIEN]

I agree, you can go a long ways with the stock blade. Save yor meny until you really feel the need for something else.

The nice Dado is the Freud SD206. You can also get by with the less expensive
Avenger 6" dado although some people seem to have problems setting the width easily.MY Freud dado's plates and chippers are exactly 1/8 & 1/16 so there's never any question.

[LarryG]

If you have a router (and for building cabinets, you'd better), you can cut dados with it. A router bit will do the job just as well as, if not better than, a dado set, and cabinet-sized panels are often hard to control on a TS anyway. (I use both methods, depending.)

For narrow workpieces like door stiles and rails, a GRR-Ripper is awfully nice.

You don't HAVE to have the drafting triangles; there are other ways to align a BT3x00. Of course they don't cost much.

No special assembly tools are required. If you have the usual basic assortment of mechanic's tools and screwdrivers and such, you're good to go.

Fingernail polish works well for the red line.