Cheap Tracksaw option

[tommyt654]

http://www.ptreeusa.com/edirect_030912.htm , looks interesting

[BigguyZ]

It's now so much a track saw as it is a saw with an expanded fence option. Basically just a larger version of what is included with most circular saws. So the "track" moves along with the saw. It needs to ride along the edge, can get caught, drift, or otherwise get tweaked during the cut if your reach/ angle is odd.

I'm not going to rush out and buy a tracksaw, but this is fundamentally different than those in how it operates.

[jussi]

It's now so much a track saw as it is a saw with an expanded fence option. Basically just a larger version of what is included with most circular saws. So the "track" moves along with the saw. It needs to ride along the edge, can get caught, drift, or otherwise get tweaked during the cut if your reach/ angle is odd.

+1. Also track saws can make cuts that aren't parallel with the side and leave a splinter free edge. I think a home made track for your circ saw would be a better option if you didn't want to buy a tracksaw.

[tommyt654]

Agreed, but who has $400 to shell out for a tracksaw nowadays,This does provide and option and I doubt it will snag on much of anything because of its plastic material, its just an option as indicated to a tracksaw, could prolly build something similiar cheaply, but at $50 or less shipped to your door or in my case at the WW show this weekend its prolly a decent buy for the money.

[jussi]

Also note it's a maximum of 24" cut capacity. So if you're cross cutting a sheet of ply between 24" and 48" you'll need to find an alternative.

[toolguy1000]

a report back on this item would be interesting. i've seen a similar unit @ sears for years, but it always seemed that the greater the distance of the saw from the guide edge, the longer the moment arm (the guide is the fulcrum) and the greater the possibility that the saw will get ahead of the guide edge and possiby kickback. so a first hand report would be worthwhile.

[frumper64]

I have had the Sears unit for several years, but this one does look a lot nicer. The Sears unit is okay, but nothing to write home about. This one looks much better.

[BigguyZ]

Although it's more money, I think this is a better solution:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...4&site=ROCKLER

Since the clamp is on sale, it's only $25 more for than the Kreg jig for the clamp and saw plate. I use the clamp w/o the saw plate, and it works just fine. It's awesome, in fact. I have the longest one too, but this one is long enough that I can cut a plywood sheet widthwise in half to create two 4x4 sheets...

And you can do a lot more with this setup.

[Waddles]

I have had the Sears unit for several years, but this one does look a lot nicer. The Sears unit is okay, but nothing to write home about. This one looks much better.

The Sears/Craftsman branded unit is on clearance in CT for $12 (and the Lowes branded unit is as well for $14). Almost picked one up for the heck of it, but (as Tool-Guy mentioned) I have some safety concerns.

[wbsettle]

Yet another way to build that mouse trap. Panel Saw System for $80

-Brent

[tommyt654]

Didn't realize this was going to start such a debate, but since it has this is what I usually use and its only $20 at HD , http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25ec...yword=straight edge&storeId=10051, works just as well as a guide as any clamp or anything else long as a straightedge, maybe you guys should look at it as well, with the HF coupon its on $18,. Also despite some poor reviews mine was straight as an arrow

[Cochese]

I have the ProGrip 50" clamp and circ saw guide and it's fantastic. Takes some patience to get setup correctly, but once it is it's super easy to use and get really nice cuts with.

I have this turd Task Force circ saw with a Diablo blade that I've mounted to the saw guide. I measure 6 1/8" less (tried to get 6" on the nose, but was only close) than what I need, mark, and use the clamp. Saw rides in the groove on the top effortlessly. I also have the 90 degree head which helps with the clamp action.

http://ptreeusa.com/edge_clamps.htm#580


I had a similar (older) version to what Tommy has that gets screwed together for full length board rips, but I found that there was too much play over the full length and just opted for this for cross cuts.

[Dal300]

When cutting panels, plywood or other long stuff that isn't comfortablw with the TS I just use a piece of "L" iron, also called bed frame rail because it's cheap, straight, 90°, 8' long and I can clamp the peewaddin' out of it to stop any thought of slippage.

I've often thought about building a set of sliding clamps to attach the saw to it, but it works so well, I think I'll just use it as is.

[vaking]

Didn't realize this was going to start such a debate, but since it has this is what I usually use and its only $20 at HD , http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25ec...yword=straight edge&storeId=10051, works just as well as a guide as any clamp or anything else long as a straightedge, maybe you guys should look at it as well, with the HF coupon its on $18,. Also despite some poor reviews mine was straight as an arrow

I use one like this too but with one modification. Assemble the straight edge, then drill few small holes and attach the straight edge to a strip of masonite. Then take your circ saw and trim the masonite. You get a tool customized to your saw. Masonite takes out all the play if the orginal edge had it and you no longer need to measure 6-1/8" distances to clamp. Since you used your saw to trim masonite - the edge of masonite is exactly where your blade is. Just mark your cut in couple points, line the edge of masonite with the marks and clamp it.

[BigguyZ]

Nothing wrong with a little debate. Its not aout being right or wrong, it's about sharing options so people can decide what's best for them.